I have an unusual problem. A few nights ago, my polaris was running and the flex tube disconnected while I was asleep and probably shot out a thousand gallons of water right at my pool control box. One one hand the water shooting at it made the pump eventually short out in the box and turn off to keep from emptying the whole pool. On the other hand when I went to run the pool the next day I fixed the flex pipe that disconnected but the display board was blinking. It allowed me to turn on the filter but the light, menu and aux buttons were not working. So I turned off everything, took it all apart allowed to dry. It didn't fix it. Then today after another day of drying I tried again and I hit the aux button and the display turned off. No luck after cleaning the board, now I'm wondering if there is anything I can do with this display board to possibly fix it. Anyone have any suggestions? Pictures of the board attached.
Aqua plus display panel stopped working
- Thread starter golfer2b
- Start date
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,789
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
There are some suspect areas on your board that are where the power connects.
The red circles look like bad solder joints on pins that provide power.
The yellow areas don't look good and there may be problems with C1 and D1 based on how they look.
If you know how to solder you can touch up those points and see if things work.
@ogdento has experience fixing damaged boards.
The red circles look like bad solder joints on pins that provide power.
The yellow areas don't look good and there may be problems with C1 and D1 based on how they look.
If you know how to solder you can touch up those points and see if things work.
@ogdento has experience fixing damaged boards.
Thank you, I had success re-soldering the main control boars a few weeks ago so I will try it out. Any reason why the red pin circled in yellow would be discolored?
You may be able to clean those areas Allen pointed out with a bit of 90+ % isopropyl alcohol) I use 99). Use a stiff tooth brush or some cheap metal-handled hobby brushes... I get them at home Depot or harbor freight, and cut the bristles short to stiffen them
Once you clean it up, you generally would start checking the power supply components. I haven't worked with these boards so I don't know what you're looking for, b but you may be able to figure it out if you can read and look up the post numbers on the board... U3 may be a voltage regulator.
Once you clean it up, you generally would start checking the power supply components. I haven't worked with these boards so I don't know what you're looking for, b but you may be able to figure it out if you can read and look up the post numbers on the board... U3 may be a voltage regulator.
Hey that red pin is probably how the board is powered... it's probably getting about 12-15 volts dc. If there was a short it may have heated up, or may have gotten corroded with the water hitting it while it was powered up.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 65,789
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
I tried re-soldering and felt like it definitely improved the look of the solder joints. Tested the d1 diode and that was fine. Plugged it in and no luck. Any other suggestions other than to just buy a new one? Suggestions on where to buy just the board or do you have to buy the whole assembly?
Did you look up u3 and u2?... You may need to rub off the conformal coating and/or use a magnifier. Then, after you clean the corrosion of the board, power it up and check the voltage at u3 to see if it aligns with what the part is. And check the current draw, that can tell you whether there's a short somewhere.