Any product recommendations for buying CYA online?

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How much CYA do you need? The cheapest per lb I've found is on ebay, but it's a lot (25 lbs)
www.ebay.com

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Ok, So 3 months ago I dumped 4 pounds of CYA/Stabilizer I bought from the pool store, and a month ago I dumped another 4 pounds of Clorox CYA over the span of like 2 weeks. And my CYA is still not going over 30 after a recent test.
My Taylor test kit, the black dot never disappears. I'm thinking about getting some Sodium Dichloro-S-Triazinetrione. Clorox Shock Xtrablue2.

The pool water is pretty warm. But i've tested the the CYA many times and still getting nothing above 30. How many pounds do you guys think I should dump?
 
So the first time you added 4 lbs that yielded you 21 CYA which is undetectable then the next 4 lbs gave you again 21 but the 4 pounds which was 3 months ago may be gone just by time/splash out/backwash/rain drain off. So now technically you have only 4 pounds which is still undetectable as anything about 20 doesn't show. You need to get more into the water.
 
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time? What do you mean time? I've read a hundred times on this site that CYA doesn't magically disappear unless water is physically removed from the pool. We don't remove water, we only replace water that has evaporated. Does CYA evaporate?
splash out? No one has used our pool in about 5 years, probably more.
backwash? The backwash option from our filter is broken. Rules that out.
rain drain off? It hasn't rained in Southern California in so long, I can't even remember the last time we had rain. But much further back than 3 months. Even if it did rain. It wasn't enough to overflow the pool to the point it replaced the water.

Any other suggestions?
 
CYA can degrade in time especially if the water is very warm and has nothing to do with evaporation. It possible the first 4 pounds have come and gone as you can lose as much as 10 ppm a month this way. That leaves you with the second 4 lbs 20 CYA which is hard to detect when testing.
 
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The heat degrades the cya over time as well. You do live in sunny California. Also everyone has splashout - unless you literally never use your pool. So u have likely replaced at least some of your water in several months time.
Are u adding cya via the sock method? If not u could have undistributed clumps sitting on top of your filter media as well.
I would be willing to bet you have some cya , just not enough to register on the test as suggested above. Add 10 ppm via the sock & re test after 24hrs - then add 10 ppm more if necessary. Creep up on it.
Please don’t use anything with BLUE in the name if you choose to use stabilized chlorine products. Also be aware of their acidic effects & take that into consideration if you decide to go that route.
 
Mdragger88 said:
The heat degrades the cya over time as well. You do live in sunny California. Also everyone has splashout - unless you literally never use your pool. So u have likely replaced at least some of your water in several months time.
Are u adding cya via the sock method? If not u could have undistributed clumps sitting on top of your filter media as well.
I would be willing to bet you have some cya , just not enough to register on the test as suggested above. Add 10 ppm via the sock & re test after 24hrs - then add 10 ppm more if necessary. Creep up on it.
Please don’t use anything with BLUE in the name if you choose to use stabilized chlorine products. Also be aware of their acidic effects & take that into consideration if you decide to go that route.
Click to expand...
What do you recommend that's Shock/Dichlor that isn't made by clorox/blue.
 

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Generally generic/store versions of dichlor or trichlor are more likely to not have “blue” aka copper/algeacide ingredients. You just have to read the ingredients of every product before purchasing & ensure they are 99% dichlor/trichlor.
That said, I really don’t appreciate the acidic effects of those products on my water so I try to stick with granular stabilizer & liquid chlorine separately. The occasional puck is no big deal but several pounds of dichlor or trichlor can make tank ph & ta quickly.
 
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I paid more than $20 for four pounds of Chlorox Stabilizer at Wal-Mart, yesterday, HAD to have it. I see it for $7 less in this thread, and I paid $7 less off the shelf last year in the same store. Online is the way at WalMart. And liquid CL2 has gone out the roof on prices too. I guess with the serious Inflation we are seeing, pool ownership is going up too.
 
mmcwhorter said:
I paid more than $20 for four pounds of Chlorox Stabilizer at Wal-Mart, yesterday, HAD to have it. I see it for $7 less in this thread, and I paid $7 less off the shelf last year in the same store. Online is the way at WalMart. And liquid CL2 has gone out the roof on prices too. I guess with the serious Inflation we are seeing, pool ownership is going up too.
Click to expand...
It used to be like $12 & has always been my go to! Crazy!
 
yea, looks like my local pool supplier is selling
50 pounds @ $100 ~~ $2/pound
100 pounds @ $190 ~~ $1.90/pound
Hasa Brand.

way better deal than that 25 pound ebay listing.
my walmart no longer carries pool products. So basically can't even find the clorex product. And it's not listed on amazon.
but to get stuck with 50 pounds. Ekk...

What's the shelf life on this stuff?
 
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