Any electricians lurking?

[colonelkirby]

I have a motion sensor light at the middle top of my garage door opening. It's attached to the soffit via an exterior jbox(1). I'd like to move that light 16ft along the soffit to the corner of the garage. Would I be fine using a length of 14/2 Romex, wire-nutted in the existing jbox(1), through the soffit to a new exterior jbox(2) that will be the new home of the light?

TIA

 

[Jimrahbe]

Col,

Not an 'electrician", but I can't see why not.. That is how all the lights in most houses work..

I assume none of the Romex will be outside, but will be inside the soffit.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[Bperry]

I have a motion sensor light at the middle top of my garage door opening. It's attached to the soffit via an exterior jbox(1). I'd like to move that light 16ft along the soffit to the corner of the garage. Would I be fine using a length of 14/2 Romex, wire-nutted in the existing jbox(1), through the soffit to a new exterior jbox(2) that will be the new home of the light?

TIA

Are you wanting it to be “up to code” or just work and don’t care about code?

You can do that, but any splices must be accessible in a junction box. Other rule is the romex generally needs to be protected from immediate damage So running through the soffit is fine. Some jurisdictions are more flexible though so check yours to make sure if leaving it exposed.

Note I’m not an electrician but I studied a lot for a DIY kitchen remodel which included replacing the breaker panel and lots of rewiring.

 

[Mdragger88]

Note* Many municipalities no longer allow 14 gauge wire to be used even on lighting circuits & require 12 gauge wire.
Aside from that,
So long as you put the appropriate weatherproof cover on the jbox I don’t see a problem with your plan if the romex is inside the soffit & enters both boxes from inside the soffit.

 

[colonelkirby]

So long as you put the appropriate weatherproof cover on the jbox I don’t see a problem with your plan if the romex is inside the soffit & enters both boxes from inside the soffit.

That's the plan. Thanks y'all!

 

[zero_sports]

Note* Many municipalities no longer allow 14 gauge wire to be used even on lighting circuits & require 12 gauge wire.
Aside from that,
So long as you put the appropriate weatherproof cover on the jbox I don’t see a problem with your plan if the romex is inside the soffit & enters both boxes from inside the soffit.

12 gauge wire for lighting is crazy! Especially since all lighting is LED now.

 

[Dirk]

Match the size of Romex for your new run to the existing size in the original j-box. If there is 14G in the old box, use 14G for the new run. If there is 12G in the old box, use 12G for the new run.

The real consideration is the circuit breaker. When you turn the breaker off to do your work, check its rating. If it is a 15 amp breaker, then 14G wire is generally fine. But if it is a 20 amp breaker, you must use 12G wire.

If your breaker is 20 amp but the existing wire in the old box is 14G, then you've got a problem. The other way around is fine: a 15A breaker and 12G wire is safe, just not normally done.

 

[zero_sports]

Match the size of Romex for your new run to the existing size in the original j-box. If there is 14G in the old box, use 14G for the new run. If there is 12G in the old box, use 12G for the new run.

The real consideration is the circuit breaker. When you turn the breaker off to do your work, check its rating. If it is a 15 amp breaker, then 14G wire is generally fine. But if it is a 20 amp breaker, you must use 12G wire.

If your breaker is 20 amp but the existing wire in the old box is 14G, then you've got a problem. The other way around is fine: a 15A breaker and 12G wire is safe, just not normally done.

Yes! You are totally right. If a short-cut happen on a 14 gauge with a 20 amp breaker, it is a big fire hazard. I don't know how often it happen in the US. In canada, 12 gauge and 20 amp 120v are only used in kitchen outlet. The wire is usually yellow to differentiate it from 240v heating circuit.

 

[Dirk]

In canada, 12 gauge and 20 amp 120v are only used in kitchen outlet. The wire is usually yellow to differentiate it from 240v heating circuit.

That's how it's usually done here, too. My house has 20amps in the baths and garage which is nice. And in the laundry room.

I took the time, in this house and the last, to go through every outlet and fixture and appliance and trace it back to which breaker it's wired. Then I created a "map" of my home's electrical system, which includes the breaker scheme along with which outlets are 15A and which are 20A, which are GFI and which are wired to the load side of GFI outlets (and much more, of course). For example, I learned that every one of my bathrooms are wired to a single GFI in my master bath, even though one of those baths is almost 100' away!

I use it often (as I do a lot of electrical customizing) and it assists in plotting out what to plug in where, or what breaker to turn off when I need to. For example, I run a lot of power in my office (many computers and large printers), plus lots of power tools in the garage and yard, and a couple space heaters, etc. I refer to my map to know where I should and shouldn't plug in my high-watt devices, either permanently or temporarily.

This really should be something the original contractor provide, but instead, at best, you might get a half-baked set of illegible scribbles in your breaker box, that might even be correct some of the time!

Here's a chunk of my map, my master bath and just outside of it. Elsewhere on my map is a key that reminds me what all the symbols mean. The numbers are the circuit breakers.




It's about a half-day of work (not counting geeking it all out with Adobe Illustrator), but I used the first one I did for about 35 years, and I figure I'll get about the same out of this house's version. I keep a copy in the breaker box and one on my intranet so I can access it anytime from any device.

If you take the time to do something like this, be prepared to learn just how lazy/cheap your electrical contractor was!!

 

[Mdragger88]

That's how it's usually done here, too. My house has 20amps in the baths and garage which is nice. And in the laundry room.

I took the time, in this house and the last, to go through every outlet and fixture and appliance and trace it back to which breaker it's wired. Then I created a "map" of my home's electrical system, which includes the breaker scheme along with which outlets are 15A and which are 20A, which are GFI and which are wired to the load side of GFI outlets (and much more, of course). For example, I learned that every one of my bathrooms are wired to a single GFI in my master bath, even though one of those baths is almost 100' away!

I use it often (as I do a lot of electrical customizing) and it assists in plotting out what to plug in where, or what breaker to turn off when I need to. For example, I run a lot of power in my office (many computers and large printers), plus lots of power tools in the garage and yard, and a couple space heaters, etc. I refer to my map to know where I should and shouldn't plug in my high-watt devices, either permanently or temporarily.

This really should be something the original contractor provide, but instead, at best, you might get a half-baked set of illegible scribbles in your breaker box, that might even be correct some of the time!

Here's a chunk of my map, my master bath and just outside of it. Elsewhere on my map is a key that reminds me what all the symbols mean. The numbers are the circuit breakers.

View attachment 537739


It's about a half-day of work (not counting geeking it all out with Adobe Illustrator), but I used the first one I did for about 35 years, and I figure I'll get about the same out of this house's version. I keep a copy in the breaker box and one on my intranet so I can access it anytime from any device.

If you take the time to do something like this, be prepared to learn just how lazy/cheap your electrical contractor was!!

I did this for my house as well & it illuminated the fact that they put way too many devices on each circuit. Its been this way for going on 50 years but that’s going to change soon!
New panel is next on the agenda.

 

[Dirk]

I did this for my house as well & it illuminated the fact that they put way too many devices on each circuit.

Right!? I think every light in my house is on one breaker!! Every bathroom is on the same breaker. The entire garage is one breaker. That's pretty lame. But I wasn't the original owner, otherwise I would have followed the electrician around every minute demanding this and that. Of course, he would have then wired the frame of my bed to 240V for revenge, so it all worked out for the best.

 

[Mdragger88]

Right!? I think every light in my house is on one breaker!! Every bathroom is on the same breaker. The entire garage is one breaker. That's pretty lame. But I wasn't the original owner, otherwise I would have followed the electrician around every minute demanding this and that. Of course, he would have then wired the frame of my bed to 240V for revenge, so it all worked out for the best.

I have replaced every device & appliance in my house except the main panel & my behemoth attic fan- including all lights, receptacles, switches, a/c & water heater disconnects. The things I have come across would blow your mind & have me thankful my family & I are still here! I am looking forward to cooler weather to tackle the panel & reorganize the patchwork of spaghetti while splitting some things up. Aside from the panel itself just being a bad one to have (challenger/sylvania) nothing is wrong in there except for too many devices on some branch circuits. Luckily they are bedrooms & such that are never anywhere near maxed out. That’s why I’ve let it ride this long. Surprisingly my disposal, dishwasher, fridge, & washer are all on dedicated circuits. My hood/microwave is not but to be fair I added that & those weren’t a thing in 1974.