My test kit says FAS/DPD and uses the 2 sets of drops to match purple for FCl and a third set of drops to test TCl, but has a test chamber that only has color matches up to 5. I guess it's not the kit that's necessary.
Another "low flow" issue
- Thread starter Russmd
- Start date
What test kit do you have? The FAS/DPD kit will contain Taylor R-0870 DPD powder, R-0871, and R-0003 for measuring CC's. Typically you will need one of the recommended test kits from this list, Test Kit Comparison.
Obviously, this test kit is not sufficient. I'll look for the kit you mentioned.
Thanks.
I am humbled Ping. My new test kit hasn't arrived yet, but I was out at the pool today and noticed the pressure has now gone up to 21 from the start of 15 after backwash less than a week ago and grid cleaning 3 weeks ago. Since I had been adding what I thought was a good amount of chlorine over the last week, I was ready to ask on this forum what else could be causing this - it couldn't be algae. Then, the light hit just right - and I saw the green algae just starting on the sides and the steps! You called it.
The first thing I did was go back to "Pool School" and read again all about algae control and SLAM. Being the impatient type and wanting to hit it hard right away, I went ahead and added the appropriate amount of chlorine calculated to bring it up to 30ppm (considering I was starting around 3-5). I then brushed it vigorously and set my SWG to 100% boost for 24hrs. I hope my kit will be here tomorrow or Thursday so I can start doing the OCCLT tests.
When in this process do you all recommend backwashing the filter and how often through the SLAM process? Stick with 80% of DE on backwash?
Thanks,
Russ
The first thing I did was go back to "Pool School" and read again all about algae control and SLAM. Being the impatient type and wanting to hit it hard right away, I went ahead and added the appropriate amount of chlorine calculated to bring it up to 30ppm (considering I was starting around 3-5). I then brushed it vigorously and set my SWG to 100% boost for 24hrs. I hope my kit will be here tomorrow or Thursday so I can start doing the OCCLT tests.
When in this process do you all recommend backwashing the filter and how often through the SLAM process? Stick with 80% of DE on backwash?
Thanks,
Russ
Backwash the filter when it reads 19 psi which is 25% above the clean pressure of 15 and add 80% each time. Make sure you follow the SLAM procedure in its entirety.
During the overnight OCCLT test, should I have the filter running (obviously SWG at zero) or off?
Took me a few days. First couple of nightly tests, FCl dropped about 1 ppm. Kept Cl level up there, after a few days, minimal nightly drop. I cleaned grids and entire system very well. Pressures not rising anymore. Targeting to keep FCl 4-6.
Now I'm trying to get the total alkalinity under control as my pool requires a lot of acid. Our water has a lot of calcium in it, lots of scaling. My TA was 180. I added muriatic acid to get pH 7.3-7.4 and am aerating; I have a waterfall and put some pvc pipes into returns so they break the surface. Is taking a while and a lot of re-adding acid but now I'm at 120. Target is 80 if I'm able. My current CYA is 80. My pool guy says stop worrying about the TA. ?
Now I'm trying to get the total alkalinity under control as my pool requires a lot of acid. Our water has a lot of calcium in it, lots of scaling. My TA was 180. I added muriatic acid to get pH 7.3-7.4 and am aerating; I have a waterfall and put some pvc pipes into returns so they break the surface. Is taking a while and a lot of re-adding acid but now I'm at 120. Target is 80 if I'm able. My current CYA is 80. My pool guy says stop worrying about the TA. ?
If you want to reduce the scaling and the amount of acid you are using get the TA down. Post a complete set of test results if you want more advice on the chemistry.
If your pool guy was doing his job right your pool would not have scale.
If your pool guy was doing his job right your pool would not have scale.
Thanks. I know that about the pool guy - it's hard to find any of these guys who have a clue about the chemistry and frankly, give a heck. That's why I'm doing it.
30,000 gal pool. Vey hard water here and very hot.
FCl - 5.5
Comb Cl - .5
pH 7.8 acid demand 2.5 drops to get to 7.4
TA - 110
CYA - 85
Calcium Harness - 650
Salt by drops, 2800. by aquacheck strips 2500
30,000 gal pool. Vey hard water here and very hot.
FCl - 5.5
Comb Cl - .5
pH 7.8 acid demand 2.5 drops to get to 7.4
TA - 110
CYA - 85
Calcium Harness - 650
Salt by drops, 2800. by aquacheck strips 2500
I suggest to lower the TA down to 60-80 and keep the pH around 7.5 and never above 7.8. Your pool might be a good candidate for borates, but I would give it some time to see how the pool does first with the lower TA before adding the borates.
Thank you. As I said previously, I went back to pool school and have been doing the TA-lowering recommendations: "My TA was 180. I added muriatic acid to get pH 7.3-7.4 and am aerating; I have a waterfall and put some pvc pipes into returns so they break the surface. Is taking a while and a lot of re-adding acid but now I'm at 120. Target is 80." It sure is taking a lot of acid but is slowly coming down.
Ping. Thanks so much for your help. I got it to 7.2 a few days ago. Aerating with my waterfall and pipes in jets to break the surface. Today, pH was 7.4 and TA 70. Good.
Issue I'm having is with FC. I'm running my SWG at 100% with the pump 9 hours a day (single speed) and I'm having trouble keeping the FC up. It was 5 a couple of days ago and now down to 4. I'm concerned about going back to the initial algae problem. I'd like to keep it 4-6. I've confirmed higher chlorinated water where the water returns so the SWG is working. Few questions:
-Is having to run for 10 hours or more typical to keep the FC up with a SWG? I know it depends a lot on temp - it is hot out here in SoCal. What kind of run times should I expect to need?
-My salinity is a little low at 2800. I know the recommended range is 3000-3500. Will increasing the salinity significantly increase the production of FC?
-Any other thoughts as to what I can do to increase FC (other than adding Chlorine)?
Thanks,
Russ
Issue I'm having is with FC. I'm running my SWG at 100% with the pump 9 hours a day (single speed) and I'm having trouble keeping the FC up. It was 5 a couple of days ago and now down to 4. I'm concerned about going back to the initial algae problem. I'd like to keep it 4-6. I've confirmed higher chlorinated water where the water returns so the SWG is working. Few questions:
-Is having to run for 10 hours or more typical to keep the FC up with a SWG? I know it depends a lot on temp - it is hot out here in SoCal. What kind of run times should I expect to need?
-My salinity is a little low at 2800. I know the recommended range is 3000-3500. Will increasing the salinity significantly increase the production of FC?
-Any other thoughts as to what I can do to increase FC (other than adding Chlorine)?
Thanks,
Russ
With 9 hours at 100% you are only adding 1.9 ppm of chlorine a day in your pool. My suggestion is to bump up the run time to 12 hours and see how it does. With that setting it will add 2.5 ppm of chlorine a day.
The reason your pool needs more run time is due to the size of the pool and how much chlorine the SWG can produce in a day.
To save a significant amount of money on your electrical bill you need to invest in a 2-speed or VS pump and run most of the time on low-speed. You should also get a SWG that handles 60,000 gallons instead of the Jandy which is rated for 40,000 gallons. You do need to be made aware that the Jandy required flow rate is fairly high and you might not have enough flow on low-speed with a 2-speed pump. With a VS pump you could dial in the lowest speed that still works with the Jandy SWG. My personal opinion would be to find a 2-speed motor that fits your pump's wet end and install an AutoPilot 60,000 gallon rated SWG. The AutoPilot only needs around 15 GPM of flow and will not have any problems with a pump running on low-speed.
The reason your pool needs more run time is due to the size of the pool and how much chlorine the SWG can produce in a day.
To save a significant amount of money on your electrical bill you need to invest in a 2-speed or VS pump and run most of the time on low-speed. You should also get a SWG that handles 60,000 gallons instead of the Jandy which is rated for 40,000 gallons. You do need to be made aware that the Jandy required flow rate is fairly high and you might not have enough flow on low-speed with a 2-speed pump. With a VS pump you could dial in the lowest speed that still works with the Jandy SWG. My personal opinion would be to find a 2-speed motor that fits your pump's wet end and install an AutoPilot 60,000 gallon rated SWG. The AutoPilot only needs around 15 GPM of flow and will not have any problems with a pump running on low-speed.
Thanks Ping. I will first of all try the increased run time to see what that does. Hopefully if I can just get through the summer heat this way, I can decrease the runtime as it cools off.
Would increasing the salinity make a significant difference? I'm at 2800, they recommend 3000-3500, but I'm hesitant to be too aggressive as I had to drain recently for salinity that was too high.
How did you calculate SWG output? What's the formula?
Next step will be to look into the VS pump. I do know that the Jandy requires higher flow rates but I want to stay with it as I have the whole integrated Jandy system with iAqualink wifi integration with lights, spa, SWG, temps, etc all in one place. I looked at the Autopilot - impressive but I'm not ready to do that $ outlay right now.
Again, thank you.
Russ
Would increasing the salinity make a significant difference? I'm at 2800, they recommend 3000-3500, but I'm hesitant to be too aggressive as I had to drain recently for salinity that was too high.
How did you calculate SWG output? What's the formula?
Next step will be to look into the VS pump. I do know that the Jandy requires higher flow rates but I want to stay with it as I have the whole integrated Jandy system with iAqualink wifi integration with lights, spa, SWG, temps, etc all in one place. I looked at the Autopilot - impressive but I'm not ready to do that $ outlay right now.
Again, thank you.
Russ
Raising the salinity level should not make a difference that you see.
I use PoolMath to calculate how much FC is being added to the pool. Your SWG can output 20 ounces of chlorine gas in 24 hours at 100%. Use 9hours/24hours=.375 of pump time in a day. 20 ounces times .375= 7.5 ounces of chlorine gas. Insert 7.5 ounces into effects of adding chemicals at the bottom of PoolMath and you get 1.9 ppm of chlorine for your 30,000 gallon pool.
With Jandy automation already in place I would add a VS pump. Check into a rebate from your electrical company for a new VS pump, you might be able to save $200 or so. I'm guessing that your present pump is fairly large since you have water features.
Please update your signature with your present equipment as that will let us help you out.
I use PoolMath to calculate how much FC is being added to the pool. Your SWG can output 20 ounces of chlorine gas in 24 hours at 100%. Use 9hours/24hours=.375 of pump time in a day. 20 ounces times .375= 7.5 ounces of chlorine gas. Insert 7.5 ounces into effects of adding chemicals at the bottom of PoolMath and you get 1.9 ppm of chlorine for your 30,000 gallon pool.
With Jandy automation already in place I would add a VS pump. Check into a rebate from your electrical company for a new VS pump, you might be able to save $200 or so. I'm guessing that your present pump is fairly large since you have water features.
Please update your signature with your present equipment as that will let us help you out.