Another issue, some sort of leak... What's happening?

Dang it. This doesn't sound like a DIY project. LOL! Thank you for that link. I'm going to do some reading.

Depends if you are an apprentice mason.

Post some pics looking at the deck and coping around that spa area.
 
Depends if you are an apprentice mason.

Post some pics looking at the deck and coping around that spa area.

But based on this youtube video I found, it seems like a little girl can do it. LOL! Is that the expansion joint you're talking about? Where my cement divides, there doesn't seem to be anything in it compared to this little girl's cement. I'll post some pictures soon...
 
She had a good expansion joint that just needed to be cleaned up and didn't damage anything.

I think your problems are more extensive.
 
The expansion joints between the deck slabs is not the concern.

The grey compound is the flexible mastic in your expansion joint. It is in poor shape and needs to be scraped out and redone.

Take a pic of the expansion joint and slab opposite the coping with the plants growing under it.

coping-jpg.421223
 
I am pretty handy. I wouldn't be afraid to tackle this if someone is able to give me some step by step instructions. What to do, what to buy, etc. It's just I never paid much attention
The expansion joints between the deck slabs is not the concern.

The grey compound is the flexible mastic in your expansion joint. It is in poor shape and needs to be scraped out and redone.

Take a pic of the expansion joint and slab opposite the coping with the plants growing under it.

Okay, I'll get a picture tomorrow. Opposite side is in much better condition. The reason there are plants in this side is due to a big tree. I believe it's the tree roots that's causing the issue. We took out the tree years ago, but the roots seem to still be moving.
 
I want to see the coping and the slab where the crack and leaves are growing out if.

I still think the coping will need to be removed all along the crack to then reseal it all.
 
That crack below the coping should not be there. But just throwing some grout into the crack will not fix the underlying problem and it will crack again.

You said you think you have tree roots in that area lifting the deck.

The proper fix is to demo the four or five deck slabs surrounding the spa and remove the coping. Then you will see what repairs are necessary to create a solid base for the deck and mortar the coping back onto the bond beam.

You probably want to go around the pool and carefully examine the rest of your deck and coping and see if you need a more extensive renovation.

Your expansion joint around the entire pool needs to be scraped out and redone with foam backing rod and mastic like Deck-O-Seal.
 
I can say with 100% certainty now that it is the cracks in the coping that has been causing water out the street. I kept the water below the coping separation today while running pump, and nothing has been going out the street.

Consequently guys, I discovered that when I close the return valve to spa, water is still going to the spa, but at a very low and slow rate. Is that normal, or is the valve malfunctioning? Currently as is, with it completely closed, the spill-over is still happening because water is still going to the spa. But because it's going at a much lower rate, water is spilling over before it can reach the coping separation. So this is actually good, I'm not wasting water out the street, and the spa is still filtering. But can someone tell me if this is normal? That water is still able to return to spa even though the valve is completely shut?

return valve.jpg
 

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Since you don't have automation to automatically run your spa spillover you need to keep a bit of water flow through the spa and over the spillover to keep the spa chlorinated.

The diverter valve should totally close water flow but the diverters can break. Normally I would say to open up the valve and examine the diverter. But in your case if things are working as you need with a bit of overflow then you can leave it be.

It is not "normal" but it works for your needs right now.
 
That crack below the coping should not be there. But just throwing some grout into the crack will not fix the underlying problem and it will crack again.

You said you think you have tree roots in that area lifting the deck.

The proper fix is to demo the four or five deck slabs surrounding the spa and remove the coping. Then you will see what repairs are necessary to create a solid base for the deck and mortar the coping back onto the bond beam.

You probably want to go around the pool and carefully examine the rest of your deck and coping and see if you need a more extensive renovation.

Your expansion joint around the entire pool needs to be scraped out and redone with foam backing rod and mastic like Deck-O-Seal.
If we are simply fixing that spa area, what is your estimate cost in Southern California if I were to call the pros?
 
Since you don't have automation to automatically run your spa spillover you need to keep a bit of water flow through the spa and over the spillover to keep the spa chlorinated.

The diverter valve should totally close water flow but the diverters can break. Normally I would say to open up the valve and examine the diverter. But in your case if things are working as you need with a bit of overflow then you can leave it be.

It is not "normal" but it works for your needs right now.
Thank you! Good to know! I checked my order history, and that valve was purchased in 2016, Jandy never lube. Others in my system are older. So, relatively, this guy didn't last long.
 
Mine is the Jandy 4945 3-Port 1-1/2 to 2-Inch. Do you happen to know what other model internals would be interchangeable? For some reason this model has more than doubled in price.
Look for a rebuild kit, way less than a whole valve. Inflation has made everything cost more.
 
Another question... LOL! Every few days, I get some yellowy spots on the wall. Then I'd break it up with a brush. Is this normal? Chlorine seems okay. PH seems to be bordering 7.8 and 7.6. I can never tell the difference between 7.8 to 7.6.

yellow spots.jpg
 
Another question... LOL! Every few days, I get some yellowy spots on the wall. Then I'd break it up with a brush. Is this normal? Chlorine seems okay. PH seems to be bordering 7.8 and 7.6. I can never tell the difference between 7.8 to 7.6.

View attachment 425352
What does “chlorine seems ok” mean? 😉 the spots look like algae which would mean the chlorine isn’t ok.
 

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