Another IF code problem

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chuckcohio

chuckcohio

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May 8, 2023
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Pool Size
18500
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Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Hayward swimpro h series 150000 btu heater. I'm an electrician by trade and really have no experience with this kind of thing but, here's what I've done and I'm hoping someone here has an answer. Everything seems to be going good on the startup sequence but as soon as the purge is done and The gas valve attempts to open. Everything drops and it starts over. I've put a meter on the power to the gas valve, it only blips power, no way it's open long enough to let gas flow. I don't know why it's doing this. Thanks you for your help, Chuck
 
Welcome to the forum!

My heater will occasionally get an IF error and it is almost always after a long period of unuse and exclusively due to spider webs in the venturi nozzles.

What is the history of the heater and did you just open the pool?

During the sequence, do you hear the burners light (woosh sound)?

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Last edited:
mas985 said:
Welcome to the forum!

My heater will occasionally get an IF error and it is almost always after a long period of unuse and exclusively due to spider webs in the venturi nozzles.

What is the history of the heater and did you just open the pool?

During the sequence, do you hear the burners light (woosh sound)?

Also, please read this and fill out your signature and location:

www.troublefreepool.com

Read This BEFORE You Post

We'd like to give you a few basic pointers of items that will help us, help you. From filling out a signature to posting test results.
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
Click to expand...
Hi, thanks for your response.
No woosh, the gas valve doesn't even get power for more than a split second. Then The Purge process starts over gas valve just gets power for a split second and, everything starts over
Thanks, Chuck
 
Try removing the wire from gas valve and checking voltage without the load to see if it is momentary with no load attached. If voltage does not drop out, then either you have a stuck gas valve solenoid, bad contacts in the gas valve relay or both.
 
swamprat69 said:
Try removing the wire from gas valve and checking voltage without the load to see if it is momentary with no load attached. If voltage does not drop out, then either you have a stuck gas valve solenoid, bad contacts in the gas valve relay or both.
Click to expand...
I did try it remove the wire from the gas valve thinking it was possible overload condition, the voltage did just drop off the same as it did when attached.
Thanks for the reply, Chuck
 

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Looks to be the same as a standard Hayward H150FD heater. Is the ignitor heating up and glowing ? This should be the same as your manual https://images.inyopools.com/cloud/...s-asme-heater-service-installation-manual.pdf There are 2 spots in the manual regarding IF code, pages 51 & 55. Page 51 is in reference to the ignitor working properly but the burners not lighting off pointing to a problem with a gas train blockage as referenced by mas985. The ignitor should ohm out at ~ 10-20 ohms at 77 degrees F for an 80V supply and 45-75 ohms for a 120V supply. Page 55 reference point ( 5. Check for gas valve failure or gas valve relay failure) seems to be closer to your problem, except that you are getting a very temporary 24V (indicative of a gas valve relay problem). As to reference point 5- Remedies ( 1. Measure voltage across gas valve during trial for igintion. If 24VAC is present and gas valve does not open, gas valve is defective. Replace gas valve. 2. If 24VAC is not present, gas valve relay on control module is defective. Replace control module.) As I mentioned before it is possible that you either have a failure of the gas valve relay due to a manufacturing defect or a failure of the gas valve relay due to a stuck gas valve solenoid with excessive amp draw. You could try bypassing the board (at the appropriate time) to the gas valve using a 24V wire with an inline fuse sized to the amp draw listed on the gas valve label. If the fuse blows replace both the gas valve and the control module, if the fuse doesn't blow and the heater lights off you can just replace the control module. Would hate to have you replace just the control module having a stuck gas valve solenoid which would just kill the gas valve relay on the new control module.
 
swamprat69 said:
Looks to be the same as a standard Hayward H150FD heater. Is the ignitor heating up and glowing ? This should be the same as your manual https://images.inyopools.com/cloud/...s-asme-heater-service-installation-manual.pdf There are 2 spots in the manual regarding IF code, pages 51 & 55. Page 51 is in reference to the ignitor working properly but the burners not lighting off pointing to a problem with a gas train blockage as referenced by mas985. The ignitor should ohm out at ~ 10-20 ohms at 77 degrees F for an 80V supply and 45-75 ohms for a 120V supply. Page 55 reference point ( 5. Check for gas valve failure or gas valve relay failure) seems to be closer to your problem, except that you are getting a very temporary 24V (indicative of a gas valve relay problem). As to reference point 5- Remedies ( 1. Measure voltage across gas valve during trial for igintion. If 24VAC is present and gas valve does not open, gas valve is defective. Replace gas valve. 2. If 24VAC is not present, gas valve relay on control module is defective. Replace control module.) As I mentioned before it is possible that you either have a failure of the gas valve relay due to a manufacturing defect or a failure of the gas valve relay due to a stuck gas valve solenoid with excessive amp draw. You could try bypassing the board (at the appropriate time) to the gas valve using a 24V wire with an inline fuse sized to the amp draw listed on the gas valve label. If the fuse blows replace both the gas valve and the control module, if the fuse doesn't blow and the heater lights off you can just replace the control module. Would hate to have you replace just the control module having a stuck gas valve solenoid which would just kill the gas valve relay on the new control module.
Click to expand...
Okay, that sounds very reasonable, I'll grab another 24v transformer and give that a try I think I've got one laying around somewhere.
I appreciate the help and I'll keep everyone informed. Thanks, Chuck
 
After checking everything I could possibly check, rotated The gas line checked the orifices they were clear. I did get a separate 24v transformer and powered the gas valve. It clicked but had no flow. I powered it probably a half dozen more times and it finally actuated. I tried it several more times and it worked every time. I put everything back together and the heater fired up just fine.. 👍 The only thing that really thew me off was the fact that The blower powers down for just an instant as The gas valve actuates. It must be part of the sequence of operation. I was chasing that. Hopefully this helps someone else out in the future.. thank you for all of the assistance. Chuck
 
You may still have an intermittent problem with the gas valve solenoid. Would have been helpful to get amp draw reading on the gas valve when it wasn't firing and powered to compare to the label rating. You may have jogged loose a sticking solenoid in your repeated attempts, but if there is too much play in the plunger race the problem is likely to recur. Blower should not power down at all during the ignition sequence. May also have problems with relay contacts in the fenwal (gas valve...blower)?
 
Sorry, I didn't even think about getting an amp draw. I'm going to look at this some more as time allows. Maybe try to upload a video. Thanks again, Chuck
 
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