Another, help, can't get my pool clear post. No longer green but still cloudy - but seriously...please help!

[melinda.hyde]

This is new to me. We've owned a pool for 15 years and we've always had good luck. Almost 5 weeks ago, we lost at least a foot of water out of the pool (hose blew off the heater). Fixed the hose, put new water in - we have well water. Husband added metal out like he normally does and continued normal pool maint, it wasn't cloudy then once the metal was removed.

About a week later it turned totally green - we shocked the heck out of it and used algaecide and got it so it wasn't green, then went on a two week vacation and had our neighbor just keep the chlorine levels high. We've been back almost two weeks and have done what we know how to do with it but it's still not clear. It's no longer green but it is still cloudy. I'm not sure what to do next. Based on this site (which I just found) our CYA is too high to SLAM it. Our Combined Chlorine is .01 and pool is cloudy, not green. Phosphates are through the roof though (numbers all below). Should I lower water levels, add fresh water then SLAM it or should I use phosphate remover? The pool store wants us to raise the alkalinity and lower the chlorine level and remove the phosphates, which is almost in direct contradiction from what this site says. We ordered SeaKlear commercial strength phosphate remover and it delivered today.

Basics about the pool - above ground, 27' round. Estimated water volume is just under 20,000 gallons. We have a sand filter and currently use chlorine tablets to sanitize and before all this craziness would shock it a few times a summer. Always had a clear pool or could get it clear easily. Took the water yesterday to the pool store for testing. Photos of pool and test below, please help us get this fixed. We have a large graduation party in just under 3 weeks and we need the pool functional.

Free Chlorine: 5.62ppm
Total Chlorine: 5.63ppm
Combined Chlorine: .01ppm
pH: 7.2
Hardness 250ppm
Alkalinity (w/stabilizer correction) 85ppm
Cyanuric Acid: 89ppm
Copper 0.1ppm
Iron 0.1ppm
Phosphate 3035ppb

 

[mknauss]

Welcome to the forum!
You need to follow the SLAM Process. To do that, you need a proper test kit. I suggest the TF-100 / TFPRO or Taylor K2006C. A proper test kit is needed to get the accurate water chemistry results needed to follow the TFP protocols.
If you really must have this clear in that time frame, order the test kit now. You may also plan on doing a very large water exchange, but you may have metals to deal with then.
Do NOT use the phosphate remover right now, if at all. If you use it with active algae, you will have a mess.
While you are waiting on your test kit, add 5 ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine / plain bleach to your pool each evening with the pump running. This will replenish the FC lost each day to the sun and also inhibit any algae in the water from growing further.
I suggest you read through Pool Care Basics - Trouble Free Pool and even look at a few of our videos TFP-TV - Trouble Free Pool

 

[melinda.hyde]

Welcome to the forum!
You need to follow the SLAM Process. To do that, you need a proper test kit. I suggest the TF-100 / TFPRO or Taylor K2006C. A proper test kit is needed to get the accurate water chemistry results needed to follow the TFP protocols.
If you really must have this clear in that time frame, order the test kit now. You may also plan on doing a very large water exchange, but you may have metals to deal with then.
While you are waiting on your test kit, add 5 ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine / plain bleach to your pool each evening with the pump running. This will replenish the FC lost each day to the sun and also inhibit any algae in the water from growing further.
I suggest you read through Pool Care Basics - Trouble Free Pool and even look at a few of our videos TFP-TV - Trouble Free Pool

sorry for being such a newbie...but, can you help me understand why the pool store test isn't accurate?

 

[mknauss]

Though your pool store I am sure is quite good, the specificity of the test results you received should not be confused with accuracy. The equipment must be cleaned between each sample tested, calibrated, and maintained. We have found few pool store tests that come close to the accuracy and repeatability of pool owner water chemistry testing.

 

[melinda.hyde]

sorry for being such a newbie...but, can you help me understand why the pool store test isn't accurate?

Also, you think based on this that it's still algae related even though it's no longer green?

 

[mknauss]

A cloudy pool is 99% of the time algae. Your addition of chlorine is just enough to keep the algae a bit subdued.

Get a test kit. Once you have reliable test data, we can provide targeted guidance.

 

[melinda.hyde]

Welcome to the forum!
You need to follow the SLAM Process. To do that, you need a proper test kit. I suggest the TF-100 / TFPRO or Taylor K2006C. A proper test kit is needed to get the accurate water chemistry results needed to follow the TFP protocols.
If you really must have this clear in that time frame, order the test kit now. You may also plan on doing a very large water exchange, but you may have metals to deal with then.
Do NOT use the phosphate remover right now, if at all. If you use it with active algae, you will have a mess.
While you are waiting on your test kit, add 5 ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine / plain bleach to your pool each evening with the pump running. This will replenish the FC lost each day to the sun and also inhibit any algae in the water from growing further.
I suggest you read through Pool Care Basics - Trouble Free Pool and even look at a few of our videos TFP-TV - Trouble Free Pool

last question - just normal bleach? How do I determine how much to use to add 5 ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine? Google isn't helping me answer that question. Ordering the test kit now...

 

[mknauss]

last question - just normal bleach? How do I determine how much to use to add 5 ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine? Google isn't helping me answer that question. Ordering the test kit now...

Typically best to get liquid chlorine. Do you have a Menards close by? They carry well priced liquid chlorine (shock).
In a 20000 gallon pool, one gallon of 10% liquid chlorine will add 5ppm FC to the pool.
Use PoolMath

 

[melinda.hyde]

Typically best to get liquid chlorine. Do you have a Menards close by? They carry well priced liquid chlorine (shock).
In a 20000 gallon pool, one gallon of 10% liquid chlorine will add 5ppm FC to the pool.
Use PoolMath

I do have a menards...I'll head there after work. Thank you, also downloaded poolmath.

 

[Mdragger88]

last question - just normal bleach? How do I determine how much to use to add 5 ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine? Google isn't helping me answer that question. Ordering the test kit now...

PoolMath will easily calculate amounts for u based on the strength u get.
If u use household bleach- You want unadulterated plain bleach with no additives, cloromax, scents, fabric
conditioners or splashless stuff.
Otherwise u can use pool chlorinating liquid : it’s just plain bleach w/ no extras & is usually a higher percentage concentration
Available at Walmart, lowes, Home Depot, menards, ace hardware etc- in the pool section. Also many pool stores have it, some offer refillable jugs too.

 

[jeffchap]

To demonstrate why we don't trust pool store test results, take a sample of the same water to 3 different stores for testing. Come back and let us know the results.