Another FNG!

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Pierre!

Pierre!

0
Mar 29, 2011
15
Tucson, AZ
That would be 'Friendly New Guy'... :-D

New to pool care here in Tucson AZ. Biggest hurdles right now is getting a test kit, assuring that I am backwashing correctly, and getting chlorine in the pool...

Background:
Moved into this rental house in February 2011. Never have done pool care in my life, did okay with chemistry. Pool Owner gave minimal instructions before leaving to new mexico... :cool:

I just love a challenge! :hammer:

The current PH is over 8.2 (off the chart of my current test kit) have been adding 2 cups of muratic acid for the past 3 days... will get a fresh reading today if I am not out of reagent for the PH test!

I believe it's time to hit the pool store and pick up either the TF100 or K-2006... and leaning twords the TF100 right now...

Hope to have more valid info, or success stories soon!

This is a great site for us N00Bies... I will be recommending it to Friends and Family!
 
Welcome to TFP.

Listen to what Richard says. :) TF-100 & Speedstir. It's worth your money.

Don't be fooled by the PS. They'll tell you the kit they have is the same as the K-2006 but in all but very rare instances they don't carry the 2006 equivilent in stores. If it doesn't have the FAS-DPD test it isn't the same. DPD and FAS-DPD are two different tests. You need FAS-DPD.
 
Hello Everyone,

Great responses...

Thanks for the confirmation that the TF-100 is the way to go...

Finally got the PH *on the scale* and added another 2 pints ... the TFP Calculator said 3c 5oz... but I had just added a bit of water and figured that it might settle in nicely overnight.

Got to get the test kit and introduce some Chlorine! I did get the FC test DPD tabs.... and there is no chlorine in the pool! :grrrr:

One Step At A Time (keep telling myself that)...

I bit the bullet and ordered up the TF100! Would love to 'Life Member' up, but it's a rental... :) Hope to be here next year... we are shooting for a 2 hear 'rest from moving' as my Home Based Business ramps up...

Much appreciated! Off to get a 6 pack of bleach and some more acid!

Thanks again for the warm greetings and hot tips on money saving! I'll be back for more... :)

L8ter...
 

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Amazing what a couple of days can do for you...

That and the realization that you aren't working with 35% Muriatic acid, but 14.5%... :hammer:

Ph is now 7.6
FC is 1.0, and disappearing overnight... Using the PoolCalculator I am dosing for '3'... and wondering if bumping it up will stabilize it faster, or just waste chemistry ... Once I receive the TF100 I will get an idea on my CYA which is unknown at this time.

So I am leaning towards only using one bottle of bleach a day till I know more.

Unless y'all have input, I will stay the course pending the arrival of the TF100.

I will get pics on the pump and sand filter and let y'all check it out. It's as faded as it can possibly be (sand filter) and there is no intelligible info on it now...

No return of the algae, and my younger bro reminded me that the pool's been without FC all winter, so it's probably burning up a bunch of organic material that is trapped in the filter...

That's my update for now.

The support is appreciated! And things are turning around, hopefully stabilizing soon!

L8ter...

PS - You ever wish you could kill the tree in the neighbor's yard, or is it just me... and we've only lived here 2 months!!! :lol:
 
Pierre!,


So I am leaning towards only using one bottle of bleach a day till I know more.
Click to expand...
That is really an excellent plan and exactly what I would recommend in your case. Once you get some accurate numbers you can start to correct things that need correcting. Your grasp of the chemistry is quickly apparent (as is your younger bro's!! :lol: ) so I think you'll have your pool back into shape quickly and ready for a great swim season with sparkling water.

To your knowledge, is the pump/filter working OK? If so, I think the sequence would be.....

1. get pH in the 7's (That's done....nice work)

2. Add a small jug of clorox each day until you can post accurate test results (run your pump 24/7)

3. Post results

4. Adjust chemistry (don't be too surprised if you have ZERO CYA or perhaps way too much)

Looks like you are on your way to a sparkling pool. How does your water look currently?
 
duraleigh said:
To your knowledge, is the pump/filter working OK? If so, I think the sequence would be.....
Click to expand...
Yup, pump and filter seem to be fine! Pool is *crystal* clear! Took 2 dives into the pool couple weekends ago, and then hot weather hit - Next day the pool started to have a green 'shine' to it! Called the owner, she said 'throw some SHOCK in it'... and that worked. Killed the green in one application. Learned from another forum (glocktalk.com of all places!) that THIS IS THE PLACE to get the low down on Pool Education... and they are RIGHT bout that! :)

duraleigh said:
1. get pH in the 7's (That's done....nice work)
2. Add a small jug of clorox each day until you can post accurate test results (run your pump 24/7)
3. Post results
4. Adjust chemistry (don't be too surprised if you have ZERO CYA or perhaps way too much)

Looks like you are on your way to a sparkling pool. How does your water look currently?
Click to expand...

Check, Check, Check, and Check! Like I say, it's crystal clear now and will hopefully stay that way. I will probably swim all weekend... cause it's gonna be in the 90's and the swamp cooler isn't setup! So it will get the work out.

I'll pick up another 6 pack of bleach today just in case I push the pool to another 'green tinge' state by swimming, so that will be my 'just in case' backup plan.

Thanks again for the knowledge. I know y'all came by it honestly (head scratching and hard work!) and I do appreciate it!
 
What kind of "shock" did you use, cal-hypo or dichlor? The only thing you should be using to shock the pool is liquid chlorine or bleach, the pool-store "shock" bags are usually cal-hypo, which raises calcium levels, or dichlor, which raises CYA. These may not be a bad thing, but you need to know what's in your water now before you add anything else. The only way to get rid of calcium and CYA is to drain some water, or reverse osmosis treatment.
 
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