Another build issue - tabletop height

[whiskaz]

Unfortunately I didn't check the column height relative to the waterline tile before the fabricator installed the top. I falsely assumed (and even asked) that the builder had poured the column high enough for a standard thickness granite top to sit out of the water. Turns out - when the water is in the middle of the waterline tile, the tabletop will be under water. I don't know how to approach this. The top is 1-1/4" thick. I don't know if maintaining a depth that just reaches the bottom of the tabletop will not cause issues with the skimmer. Having a tabletop underwater is also not going to fly.

Per my previous post - I think plaster is going to be delayed until Spring (spoke with SGM who agreed that temps are not where they need to be in my region, just waiting for builder to agree as well). Given that, I might have the opportunity to remove the column and have it repoured prior to plaster application. I don't know if the top can be removed without destroying it (PL construction adhesive was used) and I am almost certain the pool builder will not like the idea of tearing out and repouring the column. That said, it was supposed to be an 18" column (per contract) and they only used a 16" tube. It was also spec'd at 48" high and is only 45" - 48 of course would be TOO high relative to the bench seat height but another 1-1/2" would at least get the top out of the water. At least the waterline tile appears to be level...

Thoughts? Advice?

1st photo is w/ the laser in the middle of the waterline tile... second photo is with the laser right at the bottom of the tabletop and 3rd photo is how far down on the waterline tile/skimmer the water would need to be for that to work...
View attachment 618937

 

[kimkats]

it was supposed to be an 18" column (per contract) and they only used a 16" tube. It was also spec'd at 48" high and is only 45" -

The "per contract" is your Ace in hand. They have to fix it to match the contract. No they will not be happy about it BUT that is all on them. If the top gets damaged due them having to redo it to match what in the contract then too bad, so sad.

Some things they might say and offer:
-leave it like it is and give you money to "make you happy" =up to you if you want to take it
-"It will cost you $xxx to fix it" = NOPE!!! It should not cost you anything since it is not to contract
-'Oh it is not that big of deal" while they walk away. Yeah no it is a big deal so...............a fixing you will a go

You are in the driver's seat. A table being under water is a big no go in my eyes. Why even have a table then? I would want the table to be above the water a bit so anything on the table does not get washed away when the pool is in use.

 

[whiskaz]

Agree! I'd like the bottom of the table to be maybe 1/4-1/2" out of the water but there's some risk in making it awkward to use while seated on the bench.

I finally heard back from the PB regarding the plaster application and they are holding off until spring for that. Unfortunately, PER CONTRACT, I paid them the final amount due (the day before plaster application, which was then delayed for weeks). That said, I will be getting that refunded - at which point I will be in the driver's seat again. I don't know why I waited so long to confirm the height - although to be fair, I gave the PB a lot of grace and expected them to know what they were doing and that like the tabletop should not be under water... even asked if it was going to be high enough.

I'm sure I'll be on the hook for paying my fabricator to remove it... hopefully in once piece so it can be reused... which I will be ok with if the battle to make the column itself the correct height is easy... as the tabletop fab/install was on me to begin with - they were only supplying the column.

 

[kimkats]

getting that refunded - at which point I will be in the driver's seat again.

Will you also be able to "lock in" the price to now prices? Get EVERYTHING in writing!!!

I got you on the table top being on you. Now go play with it. Do you have any flat wood such a plywood? how about big pieces of cardboard? Use them to show you how it would feel for the table to be at the height you think you want it. Now it will not be the same as it will be thicker and the bottom lower than it will be in the end but it should show you what is comfortable use.

 

[AQUA~HOLICS]

Is picture #3 showing approximately 1 1/2 “ of vertical tile (downward) from the laser mark?

 

[SecoSteve]

If this table in the pool and not just a spa, then you should plan for water movement generated from people playing in the pool making waves and washing water over the table. Now is the time to get the height correct. You may want the height higher to prevent that.

 

[whiskaz]

Is picture #3 showing approximately 1 1/2 “ of vertical tile (downward) from the laser mark?

At the 4" mark of the waterline tile - 1-1/4" from the center of the waterline tile - is a scenario where the water would be at the very bottom of the tabletop... which means the bottom of it would be under water 24/7 ... and the water would not be an ideal depth for skimmer (or best case it would be fine but I would be constantly topping it off). Even doing that is not ideal as I'd prefer the tabletop to be fully out of the water at least a little bit.

Will you also be able to "lock in" the price to now prices? Get EVERYTHING in writing!!!

I got you on the table top being on you. Now go play with it. Do you have any flat wood such a plywood? how about big pieces of cardboard? Use them to show you how it would feel for the table to be at the height you think you want it. Now it will not be the same as it will be thicker and the bottom lower than it will be in the end but it should show you what is comfortable use.

Yea - we actually did the cardboard thing when we were trying to decide if 4x4 was going to be too big or not before having it fabricated. I am kicking myself for not shooting a laser sooner - the tile went up before the column did so I certainly had the opportunity

If this table in the pool and not just a spa, then you should plan for water movement generated from people playing in the pool making waves and washing water over the table. Now is the time to get the height correct. You may want the height higher to prevent that.

Agree - not sure if there's a standard for this sort of thing. My concern with going too high is it being awkward when you sit down on the bench with the tabletop at eye level. I'll have to double check the bench to see where the water will land. It's going to be too late to do anything to the bench though, I assume (unless additional plaster can be used to bring the height of the bench up some). I'll have to find a happy medium. I don't mind a little water landing on the table now and then, but being submerged 24/7 is not ideal haha

 

[kimkats]

additional plaster can be used to bring the height of the bench up some)

Nope but they could add more concrete! Drill some holes, put rebar in the holes, pour concrete to height desired and call it done!

 

[bmoreswim]

I'd slap another table top on top and be good. You'd just have a seam which doesn't seem too unseemly. The height would be good AND it would help the proportions. Relative to the mass of everything around it, the tabletop looks a little thin. In houses, the trend is slowing down, but thick countertops got a bit popular recently.

You could also make it like 1/2-3/4" wider on all sides if you wanted to give it some architectural detail.

 

[JamesW]

You'd just have a seam which doesn't seem too unseemly.

Seemly seams are seams that are not unseemly.

It seems to me that unseemly seams are not something that you would want to see.

 

[bmoreswim]

Seemly seams are seams that are not unseemly.

It seems to me that unseemly seams are not something that you would want to se

I thought I had it right but it’s too painful to reread!

 

[whiskaz]

I'd slap another table top on top and be good. You'd just have a seam which doesn't seem too unseemly. The height would be good AND it would help the proportions. Relative to the mass of everything around it, the tabletop looks a little thin. In houses, the trend is slowing down, but thick countertops got a bit popular recently.

You could also make it like 1/2-3/4" wider on all sides if you wanted to give it some architectural detail.

That granite slab wasn't cheap and I'd be a little sad adding another expensive piece of granite to the top of it (also, it was from a remnant so that color etc is no longer available. I think slabs are typically made to look thicker with different edge profile too, not actual thicker slabs - at least that's how our island countertop is. It looks like 2" thick granite but it's really just the edge profile. It's also a fairly tight squeeze around it so adding width might be problematic. Weight may also play a factor. I'll certainly keep that idea in mind if we're unable to remove it easily/raise the support.