And another first test…

[Hollybody]

So this is my first test with my TF-Pro salt kit. I’ve used the strips a couple of times now. We have a fiberglass salt water pool 10,000 gal. Pool was filled back on December 2nd. We have swam a couple of times (we are in FL). Strips were showing all levels were within normal range. This last week the strips were showing a super low CYA and a high TC. I got similar results with the new kit. The black dot on the CYA test never disappeared so I just put a number in the results. I’m not sure what the heck is going on. I’m not sure if it is the recent cold non sunny weather or something else. We had a pool when we lived in NH but it was pretty easy to maintain since it was barely warm enough to swim for 3 months out of the year. Side note- we also had artificial turf installed last week and some of the infill got in the pool from the spreaders. Supposedly it’s all natural but I’m not sure if that could have contributed to the sudden changes in chemistry.

 

[Texas Splash]

Welcome to TFP! Now that you have a TF-series test kit, toss the test strips in the garbage. They will only confuse you. Rely on your own TF-testing. Is a great kit when used properly. If you have ANY questions about a test, just ask.

How is the water now? Clear I hope? Your FC will fall very fast with no CYA. Since the dot never disappeared it means it;s below 30 or close to zero. For now, do two things:
1 - Add enough stabilizer to increase the CYA by 20 ppm. Use our PoolMath APP to help if needed.
2 - Use muriatic acid to lower the pH down to about 7.4-7.6. Be sure to test the pH every 2-3 days to keep it from exceeding 8.0.

Start there for now until you are confident you have a good solid CYA reading you can rely upon. Later we'll discuss the ideal CYA level for your salt pool and how to adjust the TA level a bit more.

 

[Hollybody]

Thank you for the advice! Water is super clear and inviting!
Just to be clear, I should add CYA to get it to 70 but in increments of 20ppm?

 

[Texas Splash]

I should add CYA to get it to 70 but in increments of 20ppm?

Normally we would advise about 70 as Newdue had noted. I chose to err on the side of caution of only increasing by about 20 ppm since you weren't really sure what your CYA is right now and we didn't know if you might have algae that would require a SLAM. Since it's winter in the US, you can get away with a lower CYA right now anyways. But if you are sure there is no algae, a CYA of anywhere around 50-70 should serve you well for now. Remember, you can always add more stabilizer (CYA), but if you over-shoot, then you have to change some water.

 

[Newdude]

Just to be clear, I should add CYA to get it to 70 but in increments of 20ppm?

We'll get to 70 eventually. Start with 20 to hopefully get a good reading at 30. Then prove you have no algae with an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test. If you need to SLAM Process, you'll want to do it with a lower FC target.

One thing to remember is that FC of 10+ may throw a false high for PH. Always let the FC drift below 10 before testing PH to ensure its valid.

 

[Hollybody]

Thank you! Going to get some CYA today and then will do the Chlorine loss test tonight and tomorrow morning.

 

[Hollybody]

CYA is at 30. Should I wait to add more until the chlorine loss test? I got extra water when I did the cya test so I tested the chlorine again along with the calcium. The chlorine was at 13 so only a loss of .5, calcium is at 300. I will still do the overnight chlorine test.

 

[Newdude]

Should I wait to add more until the chlorine loss test?

Yes. SLAM target is 40% of your CYA. Slam for 30 CYA is 12 FC, and 28 FC for 70 CYA.

You likely don't have algae as you've been unintentionally SLAMing for a while, but still make sure.

 

[Hollybody]

So I tested the overnight chlorine and it went from 13 to 12.5, so minimal loss. Added another 1.6 lbs of CYA and I am now at roughly 45.

 

[Newdude]

Added another 1.6 lbs of CYA and I am now at roughly 45.

Always round up because the scale is logarithmic. The in between #s aren't at their expected places. As such, only fill to the 10s. It makes it WAY easier to know it's not a 30 and not a 50. Then you can feel good about 40.

 

[Bperry]

So I tested the overnight chlorine and it went from 13 to 12.5, so minimal loss. Added another 1.6 lbs of CYA and I am now at roughly 45.

Also note the the CYA can take a couple days to show up on the test. So best to wait a couple days before testing again and adjusting it any higher.

 

[Hollybody]

Help!! My CYA is at 50 but my chlorine has spiked!!! I haven’t added anything at all since Friday the 23rd. My drop test said my chlorine was at 25. I’m in North east FL and the temps have been in the 20’s and 30’s. I’m not sure what to do.

 

[Texas Splash]

I’m not sure what to do.

Relax, no worries. You are slightly over the SLAM level. Be sure to turn off or reduce the SWG output to zero. The FC will slowly fall.

 

[Texas Splash]

FC doesn't fall as quickly in cold water, so it will take a few days for the FC to fall, but it will. Once the FC falls to the proper range per the FC/CYA Levels, then you can resume a normal FC schedule. You may not be able to use the SWG in the cold water, so if you are adding liquid chlorine, simply do it as needed.

 

[Hollybody]

Can I just turn it off or do I need to do it in increments over the next few days?

 

[Newdude]

Can I just turn it off

Turn it off or set it to 0%. Like Pat said above, it's going to take a while to drift down. Monitor it and it takes however long it takes. Step in and turn the SWG back on when the time comes. Monitor to ensure you are matching the daily loss at that time. You probably need to decrease the runtime if you were overproducing recently.

 

[Hollybody]

I used the “ low” mode which is an auto 10% and I decreased the run schedule to 11-5.

Thanks for the help!!

 

[Hollybody]

So, my FC has finally come down. I have been testing every evening and sometimes in the afternoon. I completely shut the SWG down. I am now at 8.5, CYA is at 50, pH is still high (darker pink than test goes). This evening I am going to do the full range of tests. After I get FC in a range between 3-5, I am guessing I will want to make sure my CYA is at 70. From that point, what would be next to address? pH? Having a pool in Northeast FL is a LOT different than a pool in NH where it could only be used 3 months out of the year and almost never got warm enough to worry about major chlorine drops.

 

[Texas Splash]

what would be next to address?

Let's see the full set of test results next time you post them. It will help to see everything at once.

 

[Bperry]

So, my FC has finally come down. I have been testing every evening and sometimes in the afternoon. I completely shut the SWG down. I am now at 8.5, CYA is at 50, pH is still high (darker pink than test goes). This evening I am going to do the full range of tests. After I get FC in a range between 3-5, I am guessing I will want to make sure my CYA is at 70. From that point, what would be next to address? pH? Having a pool in Northeast FL is a LOT different than a pool in NH where it could only be used 3 months out of the year and almost never got warm enough to worry about major chlorine drops.

You should keep your free chlorine between five and 10 if your CYA is 70. 3PPM would be the bare minimum with no room for error.