Alkalinity and PH problems

[Cape cruiser]

It was frustrating and add to that my local pool store water testing and test strips were not accurate, compounding my issue. The fine folks on here got me back on track though. I still have issues getting a good reading for PH using TF100 pro. The color turns a darker orange and doesnt match any color on the PH tester. It seems to be between 7.2-and 8.0.

 

[proavia]

It was frustrating and add to that my local pool store water testing and test strips were not accurate, compounding my issue. The fine folks on here got me back on track though. I still have issues getting a good reading for PH using TF100 pro. The color turns a darker orange and doesnt match any color on the PH tester. It seems to be between 7.2-and 8.0.

Try using 4 drops of pH reagent rather than 5 - that sometimes helps.

 

[Cape cruiser]

Try using 4 drops of pH reagent rather than 5 - that sometimes helps.

Thanks for the advice proavia , I will give that a try tomorrow. I did try 6 drops but it didnt help. the colors match up perfectly when I check my tap water at PH 7.2.

 

[phonedave]

Hi all. Im still having a hard time reading the PH color. I did add 2 tsp of muriatic acid and retested the next day. Seems like its close to 7.5 PH now allthough the color is a darker orange than 7.5 but close enough I guess. Odd thing is if I test my tap water with Nuetra 7 system on my water reads 7.0 matching the color perfectly. I am also still using dichlor as my CYA hasnt got over 30 ppm yet ,its about 28 or so. I have read here that CYA above 20 ppm should be OK ? If so I will switch over to liquid bleach today. I have also read that I should shock to 12ppm FC one time per week, is that a good recommendation ? I am also using AQUA Clarity and my water is crystal clear and I no longer have the light tan build up on the spa shell that I was getting before. I am also using metal magic and it seems the light tan build up was in the filter this time and it washed right off. Thanks to all for helping me get through this water balance/sanitation issue I have had for the last three months.

You cannot measure CYA that granularly. Whatever is the closest hash mark (in units of 10 ppm) is what you should report. In other words: 28 = 30. The test is so subjective and the scale is not linear. It is next to impossible to look at a level between two lines and call it 28 or 47 or 51.

CYA should be 30 to 60, closer to 30. You are fine. You could add one more dose of DiChlor, but there is no need to.

There is no reason to "shock" by raising chlorine on a regular basis. You should TEST on a regular basis, and if the test indicates (via increased CCs) then you need to raise your chlorine levels.

Aqua Clarity is a great hot tub treatment

I have no idea if you need to metal magic or not. Do you have metals in your water? I never have the need to use a sequestrant, so I cannot offer much advice there.

 

[Cape cruiser]

I was estimating using a precision ruler and roughly came up roughly 28,but I see about it not being linear. Im just over 30 now and I switched to bleech. I gave away my shock to a neighbor after getting suggestions to use SLAM method. I do have some metals and the metal magic worked great. At what level of CC do I need to SLAM? .5-1.0 ppm? Thanks phonedave

 

[Cape cruiser]

Try using 4 drops of pH reagent rather than 5 - that sometimes helps.

Thanks provia , I tried 4 drops and I could easily match up the colors and it was PH -7.5 .

 

[Mdragger88]

At what level of CC do I need to SLAM? .5-1.0 ppm?

Above 0.5 ppm
Persistent elevated cc’s are an indicator that its time to purge & change the water.
So if a couple rounds of slam level fc don’t knock them down to 0.5 or less then they would be considered persistent.
* note - immediately after using the tub cc’s may be elevated which is normal.
Its only a problem if they stick around

 

[Cape cruiser]

Thanks mdragger88 ! My CC is still at 0 but I couldnt find the spec for when its time to slam. Wife and I just used the tub for the first time in 3 months due to the water balance /quality issues I was having because of mostly innacurate test strips and pool store water testing. Now if the sea breeze kicks in and knocks down the temps out of the 90's I could use it more often. My hat is off to all you fine folks here for getting me straightened out ! Bret

 

[phonedave]

Thanks mdragger88 ! My CC is still at 0 but I couldnt find the spec for when its time to slam. Wife and I just used the tub for the first time in 3 months due to the water balance /quality issues I was having because of mostly innacurate test strips and pool store water testing. Now if the sea breeze kicks in and knocks down the temps out of the 90's I could use it more often. My hat is off to all you fine folks here for getting me straightened out ! Bret

A hub tub may show some CCs initially, because of the covered environment. If your tub shows some CC's when you test, leave the cover open for 10 minute or so, and re-test. They may be gone by then.

 

[Gebo]

...Duda Diesel is a good source for boric acid.

Borates will help to "lock in" your pH. But it will lock it in at whatever level it is at when you add the borates. So get the pH where you want it, THEN add borates.

I got my boric acid from Duda. I did not know to get pH to the desired level BEFORE adding the boric acid. You just answered one of my questions.
That explains why my pH is on the upper range and keeps going back there even if I try to bring it down....
Thanks a bunch!

 

[Mdragger88]

I got my boric acid from Duda. I did not know to get pH to the desired level BEFORE adding the boric acid. You just answered one of my questions.
That explains why my pH is on the upper range and keeps going back there even if I try to bring it down....
Thanks a bunch!

Be sure you put your borate level in poolmath so it can calculate your acid additions correctly.