sounds like a good idea; will get full chemistry and return; should I return here or move to chemistry section?
I'm not a moderator, but I've seen many threads by the same poster combined. The reason seems to be that lots of info on your pool & your situation have already been shared in the previous posts and no one wants to lose that info trail. So, my suggestion would be to return to this thread.engrav said:sounds like a good idea; will get full chemistry and return; should I return here or move to chemistry section?
techguy said:Stay with the same thread until you have a completely new, unrelated concept. Even if the issue changes from algaecides to chlorine to testing kits, keeping all your stuff/thoughts/concerns in one thread helps everyone to understand the progress of your issue.
Donldson said:The CYA is because of using pucks, not evaporation because when you refill it is zero CYA water. At 80 you should keep the FC at a minimum of 6 and preferably around 9 or 10. Your algae risk is hard to say now, but if you keep your FC above 6 at all times it is very low.
If you change enough water to get your CYA down to 50 you would only need to maintain an FC of 4-5. It would help you out a lot to lower it a bit. Also if you don't lower it and keep using pucks it will continue to increase.
And I am glad to hear your pool is clear. I hope you take some proactive steps to keep it that way and we are here to help you do that as efficiently and effectively as possible!
techguy said:Can you water your yard with the water? You could do small amount over time and slowly reduce the CYA during the rest of the season. If you keep your FC above the minimum and do not have an algae bloom, you should be OK for the season. It is possible the CYA will be lower after winter.
Isaac-1 said:A modification on your idea of allowing FC to drop to 0 then draining is to use chlorine reducer, so you could drop your chlorine almost instantly (within an hour) drain, bump your FC back up and refill. This lowers your exposure time where FC is below the minimum where algae may start growing.
Isaac-1 said:You would probably want something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/In-The-Swim-Chlor ... ne+reducer
note a little goes a long way
You do not need any tablets at all. I use them when I will be away for more than a day but not for regular chlorination. Option 1 will require one, probably two water changes a year. If you are already "topping it off" in Option 2 then you might as well skip the tablets altogether.engrav said:Isaac-1 said:looks like I will either need to
1)keep on with trichlor tabs and every so often neutralize and drain to remove CYA or
2)change to minimal tabs for a chlorine background and then bleach it to top off
So I propose Option 3: Keep the tabs for times you are not at home and add bleach nightly while you are. It takes 3-5 minutes a day. Most importantly you are right on top of the chemistry. You are seeing the chlorine and pH every day and if something starts to go awry you will see it long before the water starts to show. That is why BBB rarely involves algaecide, proper FC levels and being on top of things long before they become noticeable.
duraleigh said:engrav,
I am seeing one thread on clearing and maintaining a nice pool and another on filling it in.........seems that should be one conversation and a lot less confusing to people trying to help. I can't decide which thread to respond to.
techguy said:So... I am confused? What are you doing? cleaning, draining, filling, or deciding what to do? We are volunteers trying to come up with a single coherent plan and you have four conversations pulling in four directions?