Algae but no CC

[Blue Horse]

Moved from here.
I have the same problem. With combined chlorine at zero, I think a slam is not the right solution?

Here are my parameters:

1.5 Free Chlorine
No Combined Chlorine
225 ppm (Calcium Hardness Test)
140 Total Alkalinity
50 CYA
1 2 Cl Br
8.2 pH
3160 Sodium Chloride ppm

 

[Mdragger88]

You’re post from earlier today says chlorine is “off the charts” how are u testing?
any visible algae calls forSLAM Process
& a FAS/DPD chlorine test is essential to the process as an oto test only measures up to 5ppm. At your cya level your target fc is 6-8 & slam fc target is 20.

 

[Mdragger88]

@Blue Horse do you have 2 accounts or did u link the wrong post?

 

[IceShadow]

@Blue Horse do you have 2 accounts or did u link the wrong post?

He posted in someone else’s issue thread so the mods split the post out to a new thread

 

[IceShadow]

It’s not unusual to have 0CC and still have algae. It likely means it’s burning off with UV exposure from the sun. You need to follow the SLAM Process. Lower pH to 7.2, then get your FC up to the right level in the FC/CYA Levels for your CYA. At 50ppm CYA you need to maintain 20ppm FC, testing several times daily and adding enough to get up to that level. The algae will die.

 

[Donldson]

This is from a post by JamesW

Many people doing a SLAM for algae expect to see CC as part of the process.

However, algae should not react with chlorine in a way that creates CC.

CC is a result of chlorine combining with something like ammonia where the chlorine is still in the active +1 state.

For the most part, the reaction of chlorine and algae is an oxidation reaction with the chlorine being reduced to inactive chloride in a -1 state.

If CC is present, that usually points to some contaminants in the water.

CC is an indicator of a problem, the absence of it never counter-indicates an issue.

 

[Blue Horse]

My CYA is higher than I expected. Last time I added CYA was 1.5-2 years ago. I will retest with new reagents to make sure b4 slamming.

Lowering ph by 1.0 point must require adding lots of chemicals? Hope there is a way I can slam at Ph of 8.2?

 

[IceShadow]

You don’t want your pH that high to start with. The pH won’t be testable during the SLAM and you wouldn’t want it rising even higher.

 

[Mdragger88]

My CYA is higher than I expected. Last time I added CYA was 1.5-2 years ago. I will retest with new reagents to make sure b4 slamming.

Lowering ph by 1.0 point must require adding lots of chemicals? Hope there is a way I can slam at Ph of 8.2?

it would require 76 oz of 20% baume muriatic acid according to poolmathPoolMath
We suggest adding 1/2 the amount & then retesting in about 30 minutes - it is imperative to lower ph as chlorine isn’t as effective @ high ph - also you may have higher ph than 8.2 - if it doesn’t drop with 1st addition do it again.

 

[Mdragger88]

Its approx $13 for 2 gallons (2gal lasts me 2 years) - its one of the few chemicals we recommend for pool maintenance- you could pick some up when you get some liquid chlorine for your SLAM Process @ Home Depot or lowes

 

[Blue Horse]

Alright, alright, I will do it
;-)

Are the first two photos attached the right muriatic acid and bleach to use? This acid is really strong. I also heard some bleach may contain other chemicals unsuitable for washing my fish tank equipment (my other problem solving hobby), so I guess may not be best for pool either.

Do you guys recommend using muriatic acid to maintain FOR LONG TERM the pool ph at 7.2? I think my tap water's natural ph is around 8.0, based on my fish tank's water test, and nobody in that hobby would advise me to make the effort to lower ph.

By the way, I lost that thumb screw shown in the 3rd photo. It is shocking to find out it costs $10~20/piece online. Is there a cheaper place to buy or alternative somebody knows?

Thanks!

 

[Mdragger88]

The 7.2 is just for SLAM Process
When that is over you may want to work on lowering your ta to about 60-80 & that may help keep your ph @ a more reasonable level. But yes ph should be kept in the mid 7’s with muriatic acid to avoid problems with your swg. Here’s some reading for you ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry Other ph down products have adverse effects & cause build up on the cell. In my opinion they are also more dangerous as a dry acid doesn’t rinse off the skin as easily. Lots of folks here have been able to source 10-12% liquid chlorine & muriatic acid for reasonable cost at lowes or Home Depot in the pool section & their local pool store

 

[Mdragger88]

Its shows 10%baume available @ your local lowes. You can use whatever strength u want it will just take more or less. Put it in PoolMath to determine amounts. The same goes with chlorine stronger = less u have to add. As for bleach u definitely can use household bleach with no additives, no splashless or scents etc. if that’s all u have available. That germicidal is ok its just expensive & you’re going to need quite a bit (10 gallons is a good start) so take that into consideration. Here’s what I found near u

 

[Blue Horse]

Much appreciated Mdragger88!

Again, want to make sure - is that muriatic acide in my 1st photo at post #11 ok to use?

As to chlorine, that colorox bleach (same thing as liquid chlorine?) in photo #2 has a strenght of 6%. I calculated need only 6 gallon to raise FC by 19ppm (pool is 19k gallons, FC 1.5ppm and CYA 50). You wrote I need 10 gallons just to start?

thanks!

 

[Mdragger88]

That ma is fine - if you read SLAM Process
You will see u have to not just raise your fc one time but also maintain that level for however long it takes - that’s why I recommended to get at least 10 gallons- & have a reliable liquid chlorine source for more to get u through the duration of your slam. Slam is not a one time addition of chlorine

 

[Mdragger88]

As i zoomed in on that germicidal clorox it says w/ cloromax on it which is a no no - it can cause foaming - just stick with cheap generic bleach with no additives or pool chlorinating liquid

 

[Blue Horse]

I added 1 quart muriatic acid yesterday. This morning the ph is still 8.2.

Maybe my test kit is off. I will wait for new test kit to arrive b4 further action.

My algae is visible 2-3 days after scrubbing. I am wondering if this can be taken care of by dialing up cc to 3-5ppm, without a slam? My cya is 50ppm.

 

[Donldson]

You seem intent on shortcutting this thing any way possible.

The only thing I am going to say before excusing myself from this discussion is that following the SLAM Process correctly will fix the problem. Not following it correctly will likely lead to time and money wasted.

Best of luck.

 

[Mdragger88]

You’re ph is very likely higher than 8.2

 

[Blue Horse]

Getting ready to start slamming this wed. Two more questions:

1. To soak clean filters overnight. Does any of the 3 solutions below work best? Does HomeDepot/Lowes carry either #1 or #2?
(1) a commercial filter cleaner; or (2) one cup trisodium phosphate (TSP) to five gallons water; or (3) one cup dishwasher detergent to five gallons of water.

2. Do I have mustard yellow algae? Refer to attached photos. If confirmed, what algaecide do you recommend to use? The color of algae is green with yellow tone, on side wall and pool bottom, area with direct sunlight gets more/sooner, and fairly easy to brush off (I can use bare hand to sweep off and it creates a green/yellowish light cloud underwater). They cover more area, but no thick build up anywhere.

Thanks!