Is there any evidence supporting this claim? I haven’t seen anything on this forum or elsewhere on google that does. Marketing gimmick or not, I can’t see them continuing to sell it if it stains people or property
Ahh-some!… does it ever run clear?
- Thread starter mjc123
- Start date
Yeah, I jumped through hoops to get a drop test kit (Canada gets theI advise against a floater not good. Ya a pre purge is needed prior to use 4 sure. All tubs are wet tested and sit, look at my pic I posted. Yellowish crud, then work on water chemistry set up. Hopefully you have invested in a good drop test kit as well, as this is a must have Imo and many on tfp will say as well. If you have a swcg get the TK-2006 kit and possibly the TK-1766 down the road, but the 2006 yes. TFP members have been a ton of help along with Ahh-some guy personally. Hurry and get that tub up/running so u can enjoy.
end of the stick on that stuff for sure). I also have a salt water pool. Hot tub is not (currently) salt, but I’m exploring that option. Concerned about corrosion of the heater though
- Feb 6, 2015
- 6,358
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Use the search bar above to search for hair turns green.
Use the search bar above for copper stains.
Literally hundreds of posts.
It's more about the profit from selling an unneeded high priced item than it is about them caring if it stains people or property.
- Feb 6, 2015
- 6,358
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
A chlorine pool IS a salt pool. Any chlorine product (except chlorine gas) contains salt. Salt doesn't evaporate when the water does, so it builds up over time.Yeah, I jumped through hoops to get a drop test kit (Canada gets the
Heaters can easily get damage from the pH not being in balance.
Armor77
Active member
You can get taylor kits via Amazon or Lowry/Associates out of Ontario carrys all taylor kits as well.Yeah, I jumped through hoops to get a drop test kit (Canada gets the
My kids got green hair at a neighbors house back when it was sold as straight copper. Many have since renamed it 'minerals' or eco this or that to buy more time before folks realize where their staining is coming from.
On a hot tub it's less of an issue with the water being dumped every 3 months. On a pool it's an avoid at all costs situation.
- Feb 6, 2015
- 6,358
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Agreed - but why buy a replacement insert when it really isn't needed or beneficial?
I wouldn't. I was just stating it wasn't particularly harmful in a spa.
I mean sure, technically yes, but I think most people (even those on this forum) would associate “salt water pool” with one being chlorinated primarily by a SWCG, which I assume generally has a higher salt ppm than a “freshwater” pool (though never having had one I don’t know how high salt concentrations would typically get)
Yeah, I know. I meant in terms of pricing compared to our American friends
It's going from about 5% of seawater, allllllllll the way to 10%. Water with a little salt is in no way the salt water that everyone emvisions.
The anti crowd can point to it being 'double the salt' and they're not wrong. But double of not much ain't much either.
- Jun 1, 2018
- 14,061
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
The store that sells the copper refills is also peddling sequestrants I’m sure.
Gotta keep the lights on!
The saltron mini (which is what I have) needs between 2000-2500 ppm of salt to operate.
The controlomatic chlormaker needs between 500 & 2000 ppm.
Not sure about their other models but I imagine it’s about the same.
Your signature says you have a swcg on your pool that also has a heater.
The concentration is lower than most pool swcg systems require.
Gotta keep the lights on!
The saltron mini (which is what I have) needs between 2000-2500 ppm of salt to operate.
The controlomatic chlormaker needs between 500 & 2000 ppm.
Not sure about their other models but I imagine it’s about the same.
Your signature says you have a swcg on your pool that also has a heater.
The concentration is lower than most pool swcg systems require.
- Feb 6, 2015
- 6,358
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Not necessarily.
After 5 years on the same water - starting with a fresh fill and using only liquid chlorine and muriatic acid - my salt level climbed to over 3600 ppm salt.
So, after several years in a hot climate, my pool had OVER the minimum required for my newly installed SWG.
Most of what you here about "salt water pools" compromising stone is false. This myth is perpetuated by pool builders who are clueless about pool chemistry and are only looking for something to blame the poor quality stone they installed on.
Interesting- I suppose the warmer water is probably advantageous in the electrolysis process. My comment was based on several other posts I’ve seen in here about water heaters rusting (more) because of higher salt concentrations and suggestions that people switch to titanium elements (which would void my warranty)
- Jun 1, 2018
- 14,061
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
I assume you may be correct about the electrolysis- also the cells are just really tiny compared to a pool system.
For the heater-
The recommendation is to initially get a tub with a titanium element if you can or to replace with one when the time comes. Not rip out a functioning one that’s not titanium just because you add salt.
Hot tub heating elements are a wear & tear maintenance item & will eventually need to be replaced whether you use salt or not.
My spa is 5 years old - as far as I know it’s element is not titanium. I have used salt since day one.
Preventing scale/corrosion by proper management of ph & ch is paramount for the longevity of the heater salt or not.
@Ahhsomeguy, so back to the main thread of my question, do you think I should continue purging until it’s clear? I’m still getting sticky green gunk after two more today. There might be a bit less, but it’s certainly not significantly less. However, comparing to my first photo which had a lot of brown in it, this is just that avocado green. If it IS the copper then perhaps it will continue until there’s no copper left and I’ll just be wasting the product. Thoughts?
Mjc123: I would stop purging. Based on information it appears that your tub's plumbing is devoid of biofilms.
i am unsure as to why the green release is present but feel that it is related to the copper in the Master Spa system. I would recommend that you discontinue using that option. Stick with tried and true hot tub maintenance protocols. Generally speaking, every single "new" technology system that makes claims whereby you will use much less typical sanitizers, chlorine and bromine, is nothing other than a marketing ploy. Keep your water safe and healthy. Use the proper amounts of proven sanitizers while also maintaining proper water balance.
i am unsure as to why the green release is present but feel that it is related to the copper in the Master Spa system. I would recommend that you discontinue using that option. Stick with tried and true hot tub maintenance protocols. Generally speaking, every single "new" technology system that makes claims whereby you will use much less typical sanitizers, chlorine and bromine, is nothing other than a marketing ploy. Keep your water safe and healthy. Use the proper amounts of proven sanitizers while also maintaining proper water balance.
That is my take on it as well. My ABG is what a consider a salt pool - high enough concentrations (about 3200 ppm) to make by salt cell work.
My hot tub, while it does have salt in it (from bleach, sweat
, and other sources), the concentration of salt does not approach that of my poolYes, ALL pools have some amount of Na and Cl ions in them, but those that are running a SWCG (or have NaCl added for other reason) have a lot higher concentration.
Your hot tub gets dumped every 3 to 6 months so it doesn't build up over time to the extent a pool does. You start getting a little salt in there and reset it back to 0 or 200.My hot tub, while it does have salt in it (from bleach, sweat
Exactly, and while a pool will build up over time, it also goes down over time. I have to add +/- 150 lbs of salt to my pool each season due to rain dilution.Your hot tub gets dumped every 3 to 6 months so it doesn't build up over time to the extent a pool does. You start getting a little salt in there and reset it back to 0 or 200.
I had a "bleach" pool for 4 seasons before I switched to SWCG. I can just barely taste the salt in my pool now. I could NEVER do that when I had it with just bleach.