After Many Delays...The Stenner is up....
- Thread starter robaz
- Start date
- Jun 22, 2014
- 52,066
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Only one problem...Really high acid demand..TA is at 90...Brought it down from about 140...add acid to bring PH down to 7.2...dont even have to aerate..comes right back up to 7.8-8.0 in a few days...I'm in AZ should i shoot for TA of 50-60??? As of now i'm losing about 2 PPM FC a day...Check that one off of your "To-Do" list. Nice.
- Jun 22, 2014
- 52,066
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
I would. I keep my TA at about 50-60 and it does well to keep my pH from climbing too fast.
Thx Tex...Will do....I'm sure the TA will eventually get to low from the addition of MA..or will it stabilize so i dont have to raise it???
- Jun 22, 2014
- 52,066
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
As you continue to add acid, it (TA) should continue to go down a little each time as well. Your pH will probably rise faster, at which point you add acid again and it also keeps the TA lower. Eventually you hope to find that "sweet spot" when the TA and pH work well together at lower ranges.
- - - Updated - - -
If at some point in the future, your TA simply gets too low from weeks of adding acid (i.e. 40-ish), then you may decide it's time to raise the TA a little.
- - - Updated - - -
If at some point in the future, your TA simply gets too low from weeks of adding acid (i.e. 40-ish), then you may decide it's time to raise the TA a little.
i've been adding 32-64 ozs. of MA at a time to bring down from 8.0+ to 7.2....Should i just bring it down little by little say 8.0+ to 7.5? How much MA can i add at one time?? ok got your update ...raise with borax right?
- Jun 22, 2014
- 52,066
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
You'll raise TA with regular baking soda. Your pH is the most important thing right now. You can add as much acid at a time as required to keep it below 7.8. This is where the Poolmath calculator is your best tool to have. Before you add anything, enter your "NOW" numbers, then what your "TARGET" goal is for each item. Then you know for sure how much to add, and what effect it will have on other levels. You'll see that near the bottom of the calculator where it says something like "Effects of adding other chemicals". And since you have a plaster pool, make sure you look at the "CSI" row! Very important, but gets overlooked at times. When you plug in your new pH, TA, CH, etc, look at the CSI row to ensure your CSI reading is between (negative) -.6 and (positive) .6. Too low you damage plaster, too high you get scale. Not bueno. 
Yep...Always use Poolmath...To make sure of right amount..in relation to everything else...Ok thx Tex...Hope i find my sweetspot soon...Thx for the infoYou'll raise TA with regular baking soda. Your pH is the most important thing right now. You can add as much acid at a time as required to keep it below 7.8. This is where the Poolmath calculator is your best tool to have. Before you add anything, enter your "NOW" numbers, then what your "TARGET" goal is for each item. Then you know for sure how much to add, and what effect it will have on other levels. You'll see that near the bottom of the calculator where it says something like "Effects of adding other chemicals". And since you have a plaster pool, make sure you look at the "CSI" row! Very important, but gets overlooked at times. When you plug in your new pH, TA, CH, etc, look at the CSI row to ensure your CSI reading is between (negative) -.6 and (positive) .6. Too low you damage plaster, too high you get scale. Not bueno.
My pH rise has slowed down as my TA has decreased. It got much better in the 70-80 range. However, I have upward pressure on my TA as my fill water in Tempe has a TA of 160. As the 'real' heat has gone away I seem to be fighting it less. I'm guessing that's because my rate of evaporation has decreased so I'm not driving up the TA as fast.
You have any details on your Stenner pump install? I'm really interested in doing this. Your setup looks really clean.
You have any details on your Stenner pump install? I'm really interested in doing this. Your setup looks really clean.
Tested my tap the other day for TA came out 110...So i guess it will be and endless battle...mine is at 90 now so i'll see how it does at 50-60...As far as Stenner details just ask and i will be happy to provide any info i can help you out with...Bob....
Since you offered:
What model pump did you buy?
What timer do you use for the Stenner pump?
Is that timer somehow fail-safed so that it can't run the chlorine while the main pump is not energized?
I'd love a pic of your control panel.
Thanks for offering to share. I'm getting tired of lugging my clorox bottles out to the pool.
What model pump did you buy?
What timer do you use for the Stenner pump?
Is that timer somehow fail-safed so that it can't run the chlorine while the main pump is not energized?
I'd love a pic of your control panel.
Thanks for offering to share. I'm getting tired of lugging my clorox bottles out to the pool.
45mphp10 100psi fixed rate from Locke Well and Pump
Woods 50015 timer from Amazon
As far as failsafe it has a battery backup...How long ...IDK?
All i did was mount the timer where the intermatic mechanical timer used to be inside the control box..
Jaimslaw
LifeTime Supporter
I just ordered the Stenner 45mp2 which is 25 psi at 10gpd for acid injection and was wondering what might be the advantage of going with the higher 100 psi model? Thanks.
Congratulations, Robaz.
My Stenner 45mphp10 25psi fixed rate from Locke Well and Pump arrived on Saturday and I hooked it up to my Pentair Easy Touch 8 to run off an auxiliary so I'm able to set a program. I working finding the "sweet spot" based on my historical daily FC loss I'm around 2.7 ppm loss per day so I have to run it 1.5 hours. I will see tonight where it lands. I added a 2 inch T connector after my heater and check valve and connected the injection point there. I know others tapped their lines but I had some slack in my PVC so I thought it better to add the T. I also bought a plug so if I have to take the Stenner down and I can just add the plug to the line and go back to manual adding. The only real issue I had was trying to get power to the Auxiliary 7 at the Easy Touch. I tried tapping into other lines and relays but no luck. I know I was doing something really stupid but could not figure it out. Too many trips to electrical panel and work with my multimeter and I still could not figure it out. I finally just added a panel GCFI breaker and worked right away. I should have done that to begin with since that is was my PB electrician recommended. It looks better this way and now my panel has a dedicated switch just for my Stenner. I should have gotten the 25 psi since it would have given the check valve. I may just buy the injection valve which will have the check valve, but is it really necessary? and can I just buck the check valve and put it in my current injection point? If anyone knows please let me know.
My Stenner 45mphp10 25psi fixed rate from Locke Well and Pump arrived on Saturday and I hooked it up to my Pentair Easy Touch 8 to run off an auxiliary so I'm able to set a program. I working finding the "sweet spot" based on my historical daily FC loss I'm around 2.7 ppm loss per day so I have to run it 1.5 hours. I will see tonight where it lands. I added a 2 inch T connector after my heater and check valve and connected the injection point there. I know others tapped their lines but I had some slack in my PVC so I thought it better to add the T. I also bought a plug so if I have to take the Stenner down and I can just add the plug to the line and go back to manual adding. The only real issue I had was trying to get power to the Auxiliary 7 at the Easy Touch. I tried tapping into other lines and relays but no luck. I know I was doing something really stupid but could not figure it out. Too many trips to electrical panel and work with my multimeter and I still could not figure it out. I finally just added a panel GCFI breaker and worked right away. I should have done that to begin with since that is was my PB electrician recommended. It looks better this way and now my panel has a dedicated switch just for my Stenner. I should have gotten the 25 psi since it would have given the check valve. I may just buy the injection valve which will have the check valve, but is it really necessary? and can I just buck the check valve and put it in my current injection point? If anyone knows please let me know.
As far as i know they're the same but the 100psi comes with a check valve..so if you have tube failure the water won't leak out of your return..The size of the pump tube dictates how much they pump...( See the front of the instruction book...Gives you all the details for all the different models..Also you can go to Stenners website....
The 100 psi comes with the check valve....When i first hooked everything up, I kept the system dry and ran the pump without the check valve to see if pool water would backfeed into my bleach tank...It wouldn't.... So i think the rollers keep the pump tube pinched enough...so water will not backfeed...Just a matter of preference i guess...
I wonder if we can retrofit our 25 PSI system with the 100 PSI duck bill check valve just for added safety? Great idea about running it dry to see if pool water would back flow into tank. I should have done it. I've been a few days with the Stenner and so far it has been spot on with .89 ounces dispensed per minute. I am able to "dial in" the amount of chlorine I need each day. Now with my speedstir the daily FC check only takes minutes since I don't need to do a manual daily addition. I plan on filling the tank every third week.
Here is my Stenner install, completed in beginning of September. Stenner 45MPHP10 fixed rate 100 PSI 10 GPD. Pump is interfaced to my Easy Touch 8 and is run about 1 hr per day. I originally installed this to take care of my chlorine need while on vacation, but found that it is so nice not to have to manually add bleach each day that now I use it all the time.
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