Advice needed on Multiple construction issues on new build

[mvancep]

Started the build in June, so far it's been very frustrating. Pool dug and framed 1 ft too short, also they framed the raised spa a 6x10 when plan was a 7x10, I caught it the day before shotcrete and told pb, they delayed shotcrete a day and sent plumbers out to reconfigure. Well the plumbers changed the perimeter plumbing but never moved the jets or spa light and left them in the positions for the 6' length so way off center.

I had to travel and wasn't there to inspect so shotcrete guys came and shot it and then when I returned I found they never fixed the jets or light. Also they had the seat heights flip flopped in the spa and didn't look at the plan apparently. PB sent someone out and cut down 3" from the side that was supposed to be shorter and says when they do coping they'll add 3" of cement on otherside. They also cut out big holes where jets are and relocated them, the pipes they had to heat up a lot to get them to flex enough to move, hoping it doesnt make the brittle or weak.

PB says the coping guys will patch it all and then with plaster applied over it will be good. I obviously have bonding concerns about how long those fixes may last not being applied the same method as shotcrete. I don't know enough to challenge him too much as he always dismisses my concerns and says this isn't the first time he's had to do this and has never had problems, that he is a reputable company and will stand behind it etc...

Another issue is the top of bond beam came out short and I noticed when they put the tile on it stuck up a little over 2" on one side and 1.5" on the other, they put some thinset or mortar behind it and said that the coping guys will fill the rest in when they do that. My concern is with the water lever being right near the top of beam it seams it will eventually get through and maybe lift that thin set or escape the pool.

Additionally the 2 Bubblers were not centered with umbrella sleeve (off by a ft) so they had to cut those out move them. Lastly the plan called for a raised 18" - 24" wall that will be used for jumping, sitting, hanging from ultimately by my kids and their friends. They built this after shotcrete with Cinderblock. there wasn't rebar in top beam before wall, so hoping it was installed properly with rebar drilled in.

Just looking for advice on if I should halt construction or what, I don't want to have issues with all this patch work down the road. Should I make them get an engineer sign off of the repairs they are planning to make? any advice is appreciated.

 

[mknauss]

Welcome to the forum.

Sorry you are having so many issues.

I am not an expert in pool construction. Let's see if this bump gets you some input.

 

[AQUA~HOLICS]

Adding 3” to the seat is common but it’s the preparation prior to application that will determine its longevity.
Heating up pipes is also common when done properly and having heat burns on the exterior may be signs of integrity loss. Did they heat the pipes to stretch/move them?
The coping needs to be separate from the bond beam when poured.
Bond beams being out of level is also common, 2” is a lot to make up and once again it’s all about the prep work prior to application of the leveling bond.
Was the 18”-24” wall on the plans shown as being Shotcrete or block? I see the track for a auto cover, this may have been the easiest way for the builder to install. I would expect that if rebar was drilled into the bond beam it needed to have an epoxy used and typically the tubes are left on site for the inspector to see what type was used. I would have requested to have the block wall secured to the bond beam in a way similar to this.
A pressure test (water and air) needs to be performed on all the plumbing as soon as all the repairs are finished and before they are covered up.
My main concerns are with the re plumbing of the spa due to the pressures that the spa runs at when at full speed.
Here’s a few pictures to help explain. First a pipe heater that’s typically used. Second, felt paper on top of the bond beam. Third, one type of epoxy for securing rebar to concrete.
Hope this helps, Ray.

 

[Jaffles]

I don't know enough to challenge him too much as he always dismisses my concerns and says this isn't the first time he's had to do this and has never had problems, that he is a reputable company and will stand behind it etc...

Another muppet embarrassing himself because he probably has taken to much on. Why has this carp happened before?

It sounds to me he is engaging contractors who are running from job to job without much input on detail from the top of the tree, the PB, regarding YOUR pool.
The guys who shotcrete my pool do 3 a day, and around 900 a year. They were good but rely on the trade before having done their job, and the trade before them having done their job and so on. Unfortunately you often have to baby sit trades as they are loose with the plans and have another job too go to while PB is MIA.

I'd be watching like a hawk. Check everything that comes on site, right skimmer box, pumps, filter, lights etc. Take lots of photos, wish I had done that. Communicate with PB via email to have some record of conversation. Or follow up with an email confirming personal conversations.

I guess at least he is fixing his poor management, it will be costing him though. I would not be too forward in paying the schedule. They tend to want it all upfront but when the money gets tight even more poor behaviour can become. Don't think any of it is intentional, just appear to dumb or busy to see it work better for the customer.

Good luck with it, you are not alone.

 

[mvancep]

Adding 3” to the seat is common but it’s the preparation prior to application that will determine its longevity.
Heating up pipes is also common when done properly and having heat burns on the exterior may be signs of integrity loss. Did they heat the pipes to stretch/move them?
The coping needs to be separate from the bond beam when poured.
Bond beams being out of level is also common, 2” is a lot to make up and once again it’s all about the prep work prior to application of the leveling bond.
Was the 18”-24” wall on the plans shown as being Shotcrete or block? I see the track for a auto cover, this may have been the easiest way for the builder to install. I would expect that if rebar was drilled into the bond beam it needed to have an epoxy used and typically the tubes are left on site for the inspector to see what type was used. I would have requested to have the block wall secured to the bond beam in a way similar to this.
A pressure test (water and air) needs to be performed on all the plumbing as soon as all the repairs are finished and before they are covered up.
My main concerns are with the re plumbing of the spa due to the pressures that the spa runs at when at full speed.
Here’s a few pictures to help explain. First a pipe heater that’s typically used. Second, felt paper on top of the bond beam. Third, one type of epoxy for securing rebar to concrete.
Hope this helps, Ray.

Thanks for reply, I just met with inspector and company, company verified with inspector that they drilled and hammered in rebar about 4" deep for wall. They had pictures. They said they do not use epoxy. The plans didn't show specifications of the wall unfortunately only that it would be there. So at this point my main concern is the spa itself and fixing the holes they cut out to move the jets, in the process the core drilled holes made the concrete smooth inside and they cut the rebar out in the holes. From what I understand it's harder to bond to smooth concrete. So the inspector wants them to bring a structural engineer approved repair plan or memo on how to fix the windows in my spa to make it structurally sound and bond good....I don't know if they install more rebar somehow and what mix to use or what. They claim they do it by hand and not with shotcrete application method. So we'll see what the engineer says has to be done. The 3" seat raise will also need to be reviewed prior to application they said.

 

[AQUA~HOLICS]

My experience with this type of situation is a hydraulic cement mixed by hand to be packed inside the cored holes. The core holes were first washed using a sponge with acid to etch the surface. No rebar was reinstalled due to the size of the core holes ( no acc to drill ).