Add SWCG wiring to Intermatic timer enclosure

[joshf]

I'm planning out the wiring for my SWCG install. I intend to wire the SWCG control to the LOAD side of my Intermatic timer, so that the SWCG and single-speed pump are always on at the same time. I'm trying to figure out the best way to get the new wires into the enclosure. There are already 2 conduits going into the bottom - LINE on left, LOAD (pump) on right. I was originally thinking about putting a junction box outside of it, and have the pump and SWCG go into the junction, and one line come out and go into the LOAD side of the timer enclosure. However, when looking at the box, I noticed what _appear_ to be markers for additional knockouts on the sides. However, they don't look like any knockouts I've worked with before (which isn't saying much) - it just looks like indents in the metal - no actual groove or hole to put a screwdriver through. That makes sense, considering it is an outdoor unit. But leave me wondering - how exactly do you knock those out? It is just a matter of drilling, and those lines are suggested locations?

Alternatively, should I continue exploring some type of other junction/conduit Y connector to get both the SWCG and pump wires to go into the timer enclosure through the same hole?

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

It is designed to be knocked out. Use a flathead screwdriver and place it as shown in the photo. Strike the screwdriver sharply, not hard if that makes sense. The knockout will hang by the tab in the oval. Use a pair of pliers and twist to break the tab. You can use a 1/2" Liquidtight connector. If you knock out the outer ring, it will accept a 3/4" connector.

 

[joshf]

Great, thanks! Looks like I can get a right angle connector from Home Depot. I’m guessing the cell cord doesn’t need to be in conduit the whole way, just for the connection to the box. can I just hang it out of that connector? Or do I need some kind of stopper on the bottom where the cord goes in?

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

There are weather-resistant fittings made specifically for cables. It may be tough to find a 90 degree fitting. Not sure what the electrical code requires.

You may want to go to Home Depot with the cord to check options. @ajw22 may have some input.

Here's an example.

Halex 1/2 in. ACC Non-Metallic Strain Relief Cord Connector 27693 - The Home Depot

Enjoy the 1/2 in. ACC Non-Metallic Strain Relief Cord Connector 27693, UL- and CSA listed standard fitting is made of plastic and is for use with galvanized rigid conduit at The Home Depot

www.homedepot.com

 

[wireform]

The conduit on the right side bottom looks to be the liquid tight fittings. You can move that one to a side knockout and just change the end fitting to a 90° liquid tight connector and then use the bottom hole for the cable along with the strain relief fitting without the worry of water as it's hanging below the box.

 

[joshf]

Thanks all! Knocked out just like you said, and got it all wired up this weekend with a 90 degree liquid tight.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

Looks professional...great job!

Consider adding some type of small enclosure to protect it from Texas' harsh elements. Plastics don't hold up well to UV exposure. Here's one idea...

Shade shelter for CircuPool controller box

The only place I had to mount my CircuPool controller box was a south-facing wall that is in direct sun for 6+ hours every day. I knew the plastic wasn't going to fare well, so I wanted to shade it somehow. After thinking about it for far too long I came upon the idea of a lightweight box that...

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[joshf]

Built an enclosure with some scrap plywood and a 2x4. Its just resting on the back - as suggested in that other thread - the whole thing can lift right off. Because the location, it really doesn't get much straight sunlight, mostly on that left side and the top, so this should work.