we have a Raypak 106a heater (copper HE) on our new this year 12x24 above ground resin salt pool using the Hayward turbo? generator system (higher salt one - seems to run around 3000ppm. . I have no anode to protect the heater and no check valve as some youtubers (that Steve guy mainly) recommend.
Should we have an anode and or check valve?
There seems to be 3 sort of areas where this is discussed in addition to these components- confusing me.
1. bonding loops. first of all, Well. I have no issue with bonding the pieces together, but why? they all use 3 prong cords and the "ground" (bonding) prong of each component is all bonded where they all plug into the same receptacle box. So they already are bonded. That 3rd pin is attached to the metal housings of each appliance. The neutrals all meet each other at the receptacle too. So I can't see how there can be any voltage potential between any two.
I can run another ring of copper but I say it's redundant.
2. driving ground rods... well this I won't do. It's clearly against the Canadian Electrical code to ground any branches of a residential electrical system. The only place the bonding path can be earthed per code is at the service entrance where the neutral is jumpered to the bonding bus. Are people worried about lightening or something? I don't get why anyone would drive rods at the pool.
3. Zinc anodes. There are pucks that go in the skimmer. I don't get how this would do anything when that zinc is by itself in a plastic tub. Then there are in-line systems that plumb in and connect to the bonding loop. Well now we're maybe talking...seems like it might do something to save the copper in the Raypak. not sure it isn't scare tactics.
Another thing about the Raypak heater. I'm pretty sure it has an automatic bypass When the heater isn't on, is any saltwater flowing through the copper? I suspect not. so do we need a check valve to prevent the backflow of chlorine?
for the 40 or 80 hours or so a year the heater is on, do we care about the copper? I guess whatever was in the core when the bypass closes stays in there.
I see rust on the stainless screws on our ladder - makes me wonder.
Should we have an anode and or check valve?
There seems to be 3 sort of areas where this is discussed in addition to these components- confusing me.
1. bonding loops. first of all, Well. I have no issue with bonding the pieces together, but why? they all use 3 prong cords and the "ground" (bonding) prong of each component is all bonded where they all plug into the same receptacle box. So they already are bonded. That 3rd pin is attached to the metal housings of each appliance. The neutrals all meet each other at the receptacle too. So I can't see how there can be any voltage potential between any two.
I can run another ring of copper but I say it's redundant.
2. driving ground rods... well this I won't do. It's clearly against the Canadian Electrical code to ground any branches of a residential electrical system. The only place the bonding path can be earthed per code is at the service entrance where the neutral is jumpered to the bonding bus. Are people worried about lightening or something? I don't get why anyone would drive rods at the pool.
3. Zinc anodes. There are pucks that go in the skimmer. I don't get how this would do anything when that zinc is by itself in a plastic tub. Then there are in-line systems that plumb in and connect to the bonding loop. Well now we're maybe talking...seems like it might do something to save the copper in the Raypak. not sure it isn't scare tactics.
Another thing about the Raypak heater. I'm pretty sure it has an automatic bypass When the heater isn't on, is any saltwater flowing through the copper? I suspect not. so do we need a check valve to prevent the backflow of chlorine?
for the 40 or 80 hours or so a year the heater is on, do we care about the copper? I guess whatever was in the core when the bypass closes stays in there.
I see rust on the stainless screws on our ladder - makes me wonder.