Above Ground Rigid plumbing?

[Weasel2017]

Is there any concern to having my plumbing above ground on my semi in ground pool? With the slope of the yard and the depth into the ground i'm not going to get even close to below the frost line in winter. I was contemplating running the piping suspended from the deck joist with metal strapping (foam wrapped at strapping) and on the ground as it gets back to the equipment pad. Any concerns here or tips? Trenching is still an option but don't see the benefit if I can't get down low enough. Pool fully enclosed all 4 sides with deck so no piping would be exposed from an esthetics standpoint.

 

[CT-Steven]

As long as you leave "clean outs" in strategic locations so that you can use something like this with an air compressor to blow as much as the left over water out as possible.

Amazon.com : Rubber Plug with Valve for 1-1/2 Inch Fitting, with Blow Thru Valve : Patio, Lawn & Garden

Amazon.com : Rubber Plug with Valve for 1-1/2 Inch Fitting, with Blow Thru Valve : Patio, Lawn & Garden

www.amazon.com

 

[CJadamec]

Support the pipe but do not clamp it into place. The pool wall will flex a bit with splashing and swimming. The pipe needs to flex as well to remove some of the stress from the thin metal wall.

Insulation on the pipe will do nothing to prevent it from freezing if the pipe is in the air and exposed to freezing temps. Best thing you can do is set those pipes up to be drained of water during the winter. Personally I put a pipe plug in my return line and drain the water to below the skimmer.

At some point down the road you will need to get a the skimmer and return lines don't make it impossible to get to them.

 

[Weasel2017]

Support the pipe but do not clamp it into place. The pool wall will flex a bit with splashing and swimming. The pipe needs to flex as well to remove some of the stress from the thin metal wall.

Insulation on the pipe will do nothing to prevent it from freezing if the pipe is in the air and exposed to freezing temps. Best thing you can do is set those pipes up to be drained of water during the winter. Personally I put a pipe plug in my return line and drain the water to below the skimmer.

At some point down the road you will need to get a the skimmer and return lines don't make it impossible to get to them.

Thanks for the info, I was curious how much "play" the actual wall would have so will be sure not to clamp the pipes in place. The sidewalls will have the supports cemented in place with a footing so I would think it should be a little more stable. Not planning to insulate the pipes as I will be able to completely drain and access all plumbing under the deck and it may just hide any leaks I may incur. Was just adding foam around the pipe at the straps locations to give it a cushion if that serves any purpose.

Just finished excavation yesterday and now 4 days of rain so I have some time to figure out some of these things

 

[CJadamec]

They make "J hangers" to support pipe you won't need any padding to protect the pipe.

Your friend has shared a link to a Home Depot product they think you would be interested in seeing:

Oatey1-1/2 in. DWV J-Hook Pipe Hanger

Oatey 1-1/2 in. DWV J-Hook Pipe Hanger 33508 - The Home Depot

Oatey DWV J-Hooks are available in a variety of sizes and provide a fast, economical way to support Schedule 30 and Schedule 40 PVC piping. Made of durable ABS plastic, J-hooks include pre-loaded nails

www.homedepot.com

SKU# 301505444

The sheet metal wall itself will flex in-between the uprights. Not a lot but it can move and you don't want the pipe to force the wall to flex around the skimmer. It will lead to a stress failure over time.

Not sure how you plan on cementing the uprights in place. That's not typical for an above ground pool. The Wall track for the bottom of the wall is generally integral to the upright base. Once the pool is full of water the weight of the water alone is all that is needed to keep the pool from moving. Then when you back full against it as you plan to do it really won't move.

 

[phonedave]

I pull my equipment in the winter - pump, filter, salt cell, control box. I have unions in strategic places on my hard pipe so I can remove the equipment - unions are your friends, use them. I take out the return eyeball and replace it with a plug and I have a snap in plug for my skimmer. I leave the ends of all the pipes open so if any water does get in there it can drain. I made some covers for the ends of the pipes out of hardware cloth that I zip tie over the ends. I did that after finding about 200 acorns shoved into my return pipe one year (Dang squirrels)

 

[Weasel2017]

Those hangers would work well under the deck portion, thanks. The pool is semi inground will steel panels as shown so not in a track like an above ground would be.

 

[Weasel2017]

I pull my equipment in the winter - pump, filter, salt cell, control box. I have unions in strategic places on my hard pipe so I can remove the equipment - unions are your friends, use them. I take out the return eyeball and replace it with a plug and I have a snap in plug for my skimmer. I leave the ends of all the pipes open so if any water does get in there it can drain. I made some covers for the ends of the pipes out of hardware cloth that I zip tie over the ends. I did that after finding about 200 acorns shoved into my return pipe one year (Dang squirrels)

That is my plan as well. Our winters can get harsh so I will likely pull my equipment and leave the pipe system open as you mentioned. Thanks for the tip on the hardware cloth, hadn't thought of critters finding a nice home down the pipes. Going to do a mock set up of my pad in the garage this weekend being as the weather isn't cooperating so will get a better idea where unions would help out. Thanks