A Polaris 380 Rebuild Kit. Quick tip

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Jun 29, 2014
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Havre De Grace, Maryland
My rebuilt ride!
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I bought the rebuild kit which comes with everything except for the internal frame and supply hose. I had trouble getting the wheels to spin freely enough and even when they did they would eventually bind up and stop. I took the unit apart several times checking the bearings and that things were in place. Eventually I realized that the weight in the bottom was not seated in place because of silicon that has been pasted all over the bottom, it would move enough to rest against the lower gear box and press enough on the gears to slow and stop them. I cut way only enough of the silcone so that the weight would sit in its clips. Seems to have solved the problem and its going like a race car now.
 
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When I did the rebuild kit on my Polaris last year, it took a week or two of tinkering to finally get everything moving correctly. It really is like rebuilding an old classic car and having to tinker with everything to run like new. Although your Polaris looks a lot less "used" than mine which looks like it could be 10-15 years old.
 
I doubt you would need to rebuild it after only a few years and just replace a specific part if it breaks. Maybe other experts know of the general guidelines.

How I made the decision to rebuild it last year came from me frequently having to buy tiny parts for it individually and the cost for the rebuild kit is much cheaper than buying individual parts. I would not spend more than 40 to $50 on individual parts before just buying the rebuild kit because you know that you're going to need all those parts eventually.
 
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Reactions: Bart in TX
My 380 will be three years old in September. When should I start thinking about a rebuild? The only issue I've had so far is it has started tangling itself up in the hose.

You need to do the rebuild when the Polaris begins moving sluggishly and stops climbing the walls. The wheel bearings will develop corrosion and friction that slows it down. It has very little motive power from the water and any small amount of internal friction is enough to cause problems.

What you should periodically replace is the foam tail when it wears and check the ring weights on the tail. The weights start off round and they develop straight edges as they rub against the pool walls. I move the rings around as the lower ones wear more then the higher ones. And eventually when they have straight edges I replace them. This is more of a problem on plaster pools. The foam tail and weights brush the pool as it moves.
 
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That's a good tip! I am having a similar problem after rebuilding my 380 with a tune up kit plus new blue cover and pressure release valve. I've taken apart so many times and everything seems to be in place and moving freely but when its submerged I get very little to not movement. If I lift the Polaris out of the water the wheels spin nicely. I can't figure out why its slowing down so much in the water....I have good pressure from booster pump.
 
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