I don't know where the conduit is leaking, but I know for a fact that the cord was epoxied/plastered in and I had to chip it out to remove the cord. I think my cheapest solution is just to replaster the cord back in. The pool definitely is leaking at that spot. I can only imagine how much some company would charge to diagnose where the conduit/niche is leaking from.
A little more help from the experts/contractors, please
- Thread starter kri5tian
- Start date
The vast majority of light conduit leaks are where the conduit joins the niche. You need to understand that the light fixture and the cord are one piece and when you change them you have to get the cord to the junction box from the niche. You can't separate the cord from the fixture or attach a new fixture to an old cord.
We strongly discourage plaster or doing anything to seal the conduit because it makes it extremely difficult if not impossible to change the light fixture. The light niche is designed so the the bulb and the light fixture itself can be changed without draining the pool.
Pentair makes plugs. I would have someone come look at it and if it's an easy fix do the fix, otherwise I would use the plugs. The guy that will have to replace the light fixture in five years will thank you.
Rather than use p
We strongly discourage plaster or doing anything to seal the conduit because it makes it extremely difficult if not impossible to change the light fixture. The light niche is designed so the the bulb and the light fixture itself can be changed without draining the pool.
Pentair makes plugs. I would have someone come look at it and if it's an easy fix do the fix, otherwise I would use the plugs. The guy that will have to replace the light fixture in five years will thank you.
Rather than use p
LOL. I guess you didn't fully read my previous post. I totally understand what you are saying. I had to replace the light (coupled with the cord). I had to chip out the plaster while holding my breath. It took over an hour and was a pain in the rear. However, I'm not willing to pay someone to remove the niche and fix the junction between it and the conduit. I'm also not willing to do it myself when I can simply seal it with some sort of material. I have an LED light now. LEDs last a LONG time (over 5 years)...and we probably will only use the light for less than 60 hours a year. So I would bet that this light lasts more than 15 years. Anyway, I very seriously doubt that the rubber plug will provide an adequate seal without using some sort of silicone or plumber's putty. I'll look into it.
Hello everyone. Here is an update. I acid washed and this is what it looked like afterwards:
View attachment 59444
It was a lot whiter, but it was definitely showing its age in MANY spots. Anyway, I ended up having to order two 10lb tubs of plaster patch at $46/each (what a rip off), and I did some plastering:
View attachment 59447View attachment 59446View attachment 59445
For the life of me, I cannot figure out how folks that do this for a living end up with a smooth surface. Do you guys think I should try using an orbital sander to smooth these patches out? I visited a neighbor that had their pool resurfaced last year with a smooth pebble variety (but NOT Pebble Tec) and the surface was as smooth as a chalkboard.
Anyway, I'm thinking that I'll go to Home Depot and buy some sand paper to attach to my electric sander and smooth these patches out, then fill her back up and rock on until the winter. What do you guys think about that? I also ended up buying one of those rubber cork stopper thingamabobs to secure my pool light cord into the niche hole, then I blobbed a bunch of underwater marine sealant around it (to hopefully stop the leak).
Last thing - since I really want to try chipping out and resurfacing the pool by myself this winter, I came up with a strange idea: I figured I could contact a local company and volunteer my labor for a day on a resurfacing job. I'll be willing to sign a voucher saying that, if I get hurt, I won't sue. I simply want to be around a crew while they do a chip-out and replaster. I figure the situation would be mutually beneficial. What better way to learn, right?
I'm a healthy guy, so figure that I would be a good asset to a crew...I could do the hard labor and help them out while being able to witness the guys work their plaster magic. Call me crazy, but I think it's a good idea.
Anyway, I hope to hear some advice about the sanding. Maybe you guys/gals will tell me to skip that and simply to straight to filling it back up.
- - - Updated - - -
For some reason, my first attachment didn't show up. Weird. But you can still see my awful patches = )
View attachment 59444
It was a lot whiter, but it was definitely showing its age in MANY spots. Anyway, I ended up having to order two 10lb tubs of plaster patch at $46/each (what a rip off), and I did some plastering:
View attachment 59447View attachment 59446View attachment 59445
For the life of me, I cannot figure out how folks that do this for a living end up with a smooth surface. Do you guys think I should try using an orbital sander to smooth these patches out? I visited a neighbor that had their pool resurfaced last year with a smooth pebble variety (but NOT Pebble Tec) and the surface was as smooth as a chalkboard.
Anyway, I'm thinking that I'll go to Home Depot and buy some sand paper to attach to my electric sander and smooth these patches out, then fill her back up and rock on until the winter. What do you guys think about that? I also ended up buying one of those rubber cork stopper thingamabobs to secure my pool light cord into the niche hole, then I blobbed a bunch of underwater marine sealant around it (to hopefully stop the leak).
Last thing - since I really want to try chipping out and resurfacing the pool by myself this winter, I came up with a strange idea: I figured I could contact a local company and volunteer my labor for a day on a resurfacing job. I'll be willing to sign a voucher saying that, if I get hurt, I won't sue. I simply want to be around a crew while they do a chip-out and replaster. I figure the situation would be mutually beneficial. What better way to learn, right?
I'm a healthy guy, so figure that I would be a good asset to a crew...I could do the hard labor and help them out while being able to witness the guys work their plaster magic. Call me crazy, but I think it's a good idea. Anyway, I hope to hear some advice about the sanding. Maybe you guys/gals will tell me to skip that and simply to straight to filling it back up.
- - - Updated - - -
For some reason, my first attachment didn't show up. Weird. But you can still see my awful patches = )
We do advise people to wet/dry sandpaper their plaster when it is rough or has scale build up. 80 or 100 grit is usually recommended. Yep, fill her up and swim. That other stuff? Cuckoo!
Please help! The drain plug does not keep the ground water from coming back up! It does not have a lip or a gasket so there is no 'stop' to the plug! What should I do? I've tried teflon tape and plumbers putty. There is still a leak. Why such a bad design? Are these plugs designed to allow ground water into the pool?
Yes, hydrostatic valves are designed to allow ground water to flow into the pool to relieve pressure under the pool shell so that it doesn't pop out of the ground.
pooldv, it's not a valve, it's just a plain old plastic screw. I started a new thread here with pics: Drain plug not stopping ground water