spaige,
Unless you started out lowering the pH to around 7.0 before you added a hypochlorite source of chlorine (e.g. bleach, chlorinating liquid, Cal-Hypo, lithium hypochlorite), I doubt that your pH is really at 7.5. If your pH started out at 7.5 and you added 28 ppm of chlorine, this would raise the pH very high to almost 8.9. If you have even 100-150 ppm Calcium Hardness, then the water could become cloudy from over-saturation of calcium carbonate. What sort of test kit are you using? Do you have test strips or a Taylor K-2006 test kit or TF100 test kit?
I see that you were using 6% bleach. Can you also tell us the Calcium Hardness (CH) if you know it? Also, what is your pool temperature? Did you happen to test the CYA level at any time before the water was green or got cloudy and was it >100 ppm at that time? Do you know how the Cyanuric Acid (CYA) level got so high? Were you previously using Trichlor tabs or Dichlor granular/powder?
I suggest two things. First, see if your Free Chlorine (FC) level is holding overnight -- not dropping by more than 2 ppm FC at the most given the high chlorine level (normally we look for a <1 ppm FC drop, but your FC level is pretty high). If it's holding, then dilute the pool water with fresh water, either through multiple partial drain/refill or continuous dilution. You'll need to do that anyway to lower the CYA (IF it really is that high) and this will remove some of whatever is cloudy as well. It will also dilute your chlorine to lower the FC which should also lower the pH as well (IF it's actually high and you have a false reading from a test strip).
By the way, if you take a sample of pool water and put it in the CYA view tube, is it cloudy enough to obscure the black dot and if so, at what level?
Richard