Adding well water with ph 7.3 and alk of 320

Jun 3, 2015
3
somonauk IL
What would be recomended or suggestions to counter act the adding water to pool for evaperation and backwashing to keep in balance generally add about 2", i do understand this is related to the amont added but just want to know the best way to counter act this,my borate level is currently around 45. i am going to chart how and how much to counter act to correct this for furture referance but wondering if anyone else has any suggestions, every pool is not the same i do understand.
16900 gallons is what i have.
T:roll:hanks
 
Adding water with that pH and TA will be fine. You'll likely experience some additional pH rise after adding water from this source, depending on the starting TA of the pool water. It's hard to know how much increased pH rise you'll experience because that's very dependent on your current TA and any other factors of the pool that will contribute to regular aeration sources. Also, your borates should help moderate this pH rise some but not entirely.

The only way you'll know how adding this fill water will change your pool is to try it. Check all your chemistry (FC, CC, pH, TA, CH, CYA, borates) before adding and after adding and observe your changes over time. Document it. Observe the pattern.
 
Sorry about the confusion,basically wondering what other people do when they add more water to the pool and then balance out to correct ph and alk readings.
From what i have been reading and still a little confused, looks like my best course of action would be to add acid and then airate??
I would assume that once i have things dialed in, that when i add about 2" or 3" of water to the pool i would guess this would be around 700 to 1000 gals of water added, then i could treat this qty of added water( example 12 oz of this and 6oz of that) to keep me very close to target levels.
 
People often over obsess about TA, I don't know why this is, but they do. Correct TA for any given pool is the point where you have stable pH, it is not some number out of a book or off a web site and will vary with individual conditions, which include the pH and alkalinity of the fill water vs natural evaporation rate

Personally I don't even test TA anymore (or rarely do) as I know I rarely have to adjust pH in my pool, I also know I have very acidic fill water from my well (below 6.8, USGS survey of 32 water wells in my area that tap the same aquifer sands show an average pH of 6.3 and a range of 5.4 -7.3). It is all about trying to find a balance point, for me that balance point is probably a TA that allows for an upward creep of pH that is offset by acidic fill water needed to replace evaporation losses.

Ike
 
Ike
Thank you very much for your response, after all the reading from all over and fighting two different size pools in the past, you make it a lot more clear.
I will now focus on ph and cc levels and not be obsessed over the ta unless my ph starts to go Crazy all over.
 
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