Need to change sand after conversion

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So... can't seem to get it lowered. Added another 25oz of muriatic acid at 10am this morning and at 5:30pm still showing 8.2. Funny thing is I used my baquacil test trip just for kicks and it shows less than 6.8. I guess I keep adding acid???
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So... can't seem to get it lowered. Added another 25oz of muriatic acid at 10am this morning and at 5:30pm still showing 8.2. Funny thing is I used my baquacil test trip just for kicks and it shows less than 6.8. I guess I keep adding acid???
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Wait. You're getting over 8.2 with the drops and less than 6.8 on the strips?

Something is not right. I would stop adding acid until we sort this out.


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Darn Taylor-1000's, no Acid Demand reagent to drop in the pH test. The Acid Demand reagent lets you add concentrated acid (HCl) drop-wise to the pH test and you count how many drops it takes to get you to 7.4. Then there's a little chart in the booklet that converts drop count to acid addition. PoolMath does the calculation for you too but the nice part about the acid demand drops is it gives you a way to see if there's a problem with the pH, like the drops not having any effect.

So this is a mystery. I am loathe to trust test strips in any way as they are horribly imprecise and prone to going bad. But the fact that you are getting wildly opposite results does not sit well with me.

I will be flogged with a wet pool noodle for suggesting this, but you might take a water sample to the local pool store and see what their tester says. If for some reason the Taylor Kit is not working (and I can't imagine why it would not), then I'd hate for you to keep adding acid. There isn't any hydrogen peroxide in the water (Baquacil oxidizer) is there? I can't make out the writing on the strip bottle very well....
 
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Just re-read some of your earlier posts - why do you have a Taylor K-1000? Didn't your order a K-2006 or TF-100?
 
No oxidizer added since end of last season and the test strips aren't showing any and haven't since we removed the cover 1.5 weeks ago. I think my problem is I trusted the stripes and added borax based on that reading while waiting for my test kit, so I added 12 lbs as suggested. I can get water tested tomorrow evening at the dreaded pool store, but was so hoping to be ready to start the chlorine tonight:( Patience...patience... patience...
 
Pcrider said:
No oxidizer added since end of last season and the test strips aren't showing any and haven't since we removed the cover 1.5 weeks ago. I think my problem is I trusted the stripes and added borax based on that reading while waiting for my test kit, so I added 12 lbs as suggested. I can get water tested tomorrow evening at the dreaded pool store, but was so hoping to be ready to start the chlorine tonight:( Patience...patience... patience...
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Well, 192oz of Borax would increase the pH by 1.0, increase the borates by 8ppm and raise the TA by 19. Using your previous TA numbers and assuming 10ppm borates, PoolMath says it will take 103oz of MA to lower your pH from 8.4 to 7.4.

Let me ask you something - you are using 31.45% (20-Baume) Muriatic acid, right? It comes in different concentrations and some of the hardware stores and pool stores keep the highly concentrated chemicals either in a contractor section or in the back and you have to ask for it. They will put lower grade stuff out for general use.
 

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Pcrider said:
It's what came in it. Is there something else in the kit that test PH?
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Nope, it's all good. I use the Taylor K-2006 test kit not the TF-100 so I'm not familiar with the layout of the TF-100. They both use Taylor reagents with the only difference being that the TF-100 is better optimized for the TFPC Method. I don't believe TFTTestKits includes any acid/base demand reagents because they are not really necessary when you have access to PoolMath and so it's a waste. I like having the variety of the K-2006. To each his own on the test kits, I say.

So I'm really not going to doubt the TF-100 pH results. Those strips have to be funky somehow.
 
I really want to get this right and don't trust myself to do so at this point so pictures are my friend:) I've added two of these bottles (64 oz) and they say 31.45% Hydrochloric Acid, 20* baume).

Here's a pix of pool just for kicks
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OK. So you added 64oz so far. PoolMath says you needed 103oz.

Keep going :stirpot:

I don't forget to run the pumps and mix the water with your wall brush.

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One other thing - those little quart size bottles of MA are not really that economical. They typically cost more than going to a big hardware store or pool store and buying the MA in gallon jug sizes. It's not a huge difference in price, but I never buy those little bottles.
 
Thanks for all the help! I had about just the right amount on hand so in it went and a good brushing followed with pump at full force;-). My local store had the galloon jugs but were out so I was in a pinch. I'll test again after while and update accordingly.
 
Hey, don't forget about pictures when you dump the chlorine in. I here baquacil-pools put on quite a colorful show!


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Progress! PH is at 7.8. Question now is if I just wait will it continue to drop or do I add more MA? Pool Math says 27 oz with a reading of 7.8 trying to go to 7.4.



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Progress! PH is at 7.8. Question now is if I just wait will it continue to drop or do I add more MA? Pool Math says 27 oz with a reading of 7.8 trying to go to 7.4.



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As @pooldv said, you must keep adding acid and retesting until you get to 7.2-7.4.

PoolMath is not perfect, it's designed to work best for small changes in water parameters.

Keep going, you're doing GREAT!!


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That is AWESOME!!

Remember that frequent testing in the beginning is critical. The FC consumption in the beginning is going to be crazy fast. And don't pH test, the reagent doesn't work over 10ppm FC.

Also keep an eye on the filter pressure and backwash as soon as you hit 25% over clean pressure.


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