New owner - pointing in right direction for swg clear green water

[jonesy119]

Hello,

I've been at my new place for a few weeks, but just now have had time to dig into managing and maintaining my pool. I've had clear green water since the pool was opened and know there are things I need to do such as checking the CYA level (don't currently have a test kit for that), and possibly getting the water tested to figure out if the green is caused by algae or metal.

What I'm hoping for is someone to point me the right direction on what my first steps should be to get the water (see attachment) that pristine blue, without the benefit of having full data available. I've run across several different options, including conflicting ones from the pool company I've had come out so it is a bit confusing. I've left some data below, but not sure if it's enough for the members to help, but hoping given the pic of the pool someone might recognize the most likely cause.

Pool: Approx 10 yr old Gunite - Pool opened 4 weeks ago
System: Hayward SwimClear Cartridge filter and Hayward Pump
Backwashing: Done twice at two week intervals. Filters are fairly clean but lots of gunk in there. Unsure if previous owner ever backwashed
Pump: Run 6 - 8 hrs. daily and pool not currently being used
Generator: Between 3500 - 3800 salt to chlorine
Cleaning: Vacuumed and manual skimming about every other day. Sides brushed about every week
Chemical tests: BioGuard 1200V Multi Test (results approx)

Chlorine Residual - 1.2
PH - 7.8
Acid Demand, Alkali Demand and Total Alkalinity all within acceptable parameters

Based on the pic and the above data, anyone want to guess (and know it will be a guess until I can get more info like CYA) as to what should be my first treatment to get the color of the water where it should be?

Thanks!

 

[Azgirl71]

Welcome. Your PH is on the high end of the scale. Without a full set of numbers from a reliable test kit it will be harder for us to help you. The pool water does not look terrible. I use the TF 100 and do not regret the purchase at all!

 

[pooldv]

There is really no way to recommend a cure when we don't know what the problem is. Asking for a blind recommendation could make your problem worse, not better.

We really need a cya test and a few days of chlorine tests to figure out what the issue might be.

Does the pool stay open?

The problem is often not enough chlorine. If the cya is anywhere near where it should be then your minimum FC is 3 or 4. Which means that you should never let your FC drop below 3 or 4, based on this Chlorine CYA Chart. If it does drop below that then algae will start to grow.

Here is an intro to water chemistry
TFPC for Beginners
ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry
Water Balance for SWCGs

 

[Casey]

Welcome jonesy.

Invest in a TF100 and take control of your pool. Also, read the ABC's of pool water chemistry to see how all of it fits into pool maintenance.

We would love to help but were blind folded, pinning tails on donkeys.

 

[tim5055]

The only thing I will guess is that the green is algae ans you describe the water as "dull". A chlorine level of 1.2 is very low unless there is no stabilizer in the water.

I think everyone else has pointed out you need your own quality test kit. To effectively practice the TFPC methods, the FAS/DPD chlorine test is essential. All the kits on our recommended list contain that test while very few other kits do. The kits sold at the pool store generally won't won't cut it, but be careful pool store employees are known to say “it's the same thing”.

Does your filter have pressure gauge? Back-washing is something that should be done when it is needed, not on a times schedule. It is needed when the pressure rises about 25% above the clean pressure.

If you are going to take care of the pool, you need to buy the test kit. Pool store testing just won't cut it.

 

[jonesy119]

Thanks everyone! Getting answers\suggestions from people who don't have some potential stake (i.e., more money from me)in this is why this forum is so useful.