Nasty Black Pool Inherited from Home Purchase

Is that one of the last batch of Hubble Telescope photos of Mars? You have your work cut out for you. Don't feel too bad though, I put a bid on a home in San Diego, won the bid, by the time escrow closed the real estate agents managed to save water by turning off the sprinklers ($120K of landscaping replacement) and they fired the pool guy (black crud pool, clogged and ripped automatic pool cover).

Side note - NPS pools has 2 gallon boxes of liquid chlorine, 12.5%, $5.49 per box until the end of May.

Good luck!
 
Haha Kim. I do honestly believe that I will be finding some creature of some sort in the bottom of this pool. The previous owners husband died a few years ago and is why there has been no maintenance done to the entire house. It was worth the work though for the house that I got. Anyways people at work were joking that we are going to find the woman's husband down there. Creeps me out everytime I pull up the leaf rake.

On a side note I will be going to Walmart tomorrow to purchase some bleach. With SLAMing is it an issue with adding the bleach at night time due to the sun during daytime? KWIM?
What is a good quantity starting point on bleach? I would like to be able to at least go a day or two before I have to go back to the store to buy more.


I'm Mobile
 
I would buy some every time you can. With all of that stuff it is going to take a lot to beat it.

Keep getting up as much stuff as you can. The more you get out the less bleach you will need.

SLAM-you will add bleach after you test each time. It does not matter if it is day or night.

On weekends you will test and add as much as every hour if at all possible.

On workdays you will test and add when you first get up, before you leave for work, as soon as you get home, after dinner, before you go to bed.

The theme is test and add bleach as often as you can. The more you test and add bleach the faster your SLAM will go.

As you get ahead of the black monster you will see that your FC drops slower. Look at some of the pools from the link Richard gave you. You will see your pool change just like theirs did!

Kim
 
One more thing before I go to bed. My spigots to fill the pool back up run off of well water. Anything special for well water when filling it up? If not now maybe in the future after I get all the levels right?


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have the well water tested for metals, mainly iron. Another thing you really don't want to deal with.
 

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Good morning and welcome, AWT.
I have been in your shoes with a vinyl pool, black water, TFP recovery, and well water ;) It can be done!

You've gotten excellent tips from everyone. There are a few I want to emphasize...specifically the importance of absolutely staying "ahead" of your slam/shock value in order to go the right direction, and quickly.

With the warming weather, you will be in a race against algae, meaning you want to try to find a way once you start to stay ahead of multiplying algae. I'd use "mustard shock level" from the CYA/Chlorine chart, and go over that a bit to make sure it doesn't drop below shock value before the next time you're available to add chlorine.

In my swamp conversion, that meant 60 gallons of bleach over a 12 day period. I bought cheap stuff from Aldis for under 2 bucks. These days, I actually use 12% from refills at pool store.

While you're waiting for your kit, keep scooping out any silt you find with your leaf rake. Since you've already gone from black to green, you might want to add 2 gallons bleach a day to see if that keeps it from going backwards.

Since you've spent a wad on cal hypo, once you can test your calcium level, you may find that you're still able to use it....a lack of calcium level in a vinyl pool doesn't matter but it is is possible if you have way too much calcium to still "scale" and have that combine with iron...I'm not sure how much calcium cal hypo adds...might be worth searching these threads to find out. So, short story is don't throw out the cal hypo just yet...you might be able to use more in your slam once you can calculate how much is already in the water and how much you'd be adding.

While TFP is generally a liquid-chlorine-based concept, the real philosophy of TFP is to reliably know and predict outcomes based on specific parameters and testing...so using cal hypo if you have "room" to add a bit of calcium is not verboten :)

Other notes:
1. In your shoes, using the pool calculator, ( http://www.troublefreepool.com/calc.html )I'd go ahead and add the cya/stabilizer to 30 to help stop sun from burning off all your FC. Add it now, don't add more, and don't expect it to show up in reading for a week. But assume you have 30 ppm when you start your slam, and dose to that level using the CYA/Chlorine chart. http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/128-chlorine-cya-chart-slam-shock. - you will eventually be vacuuming to waste, which means you'll lose some of it, but in this case it will be cheaper to add a bit more when your slam is done than to have the chlorine burn off too fast ;)

2. I could not initially vacuum to waste either without clogging. Hence the suggestion to continue manually scooping and letting the water clear. If you still have leaves, this might help you: http://www.amazon.com/Hydro-Tools-8...F8&qid=1430133239&sr=8-3&keywords=leaf+gulper

3. My filter is sand...de might require even more supervision, but you IMHO need to be filtering when slamming this kind of recovery...24/7. So get the filter ready and be prepared to clean it out/backwash a lot the first few days. Backwash any time the pressure is 25% higher than normal.

You might want to half-close the main drain in the beginning to avoid clogs from silt on the bottom. Be sure to clean out your pump basket if debris clogs it....usually, a drop in filtering pressure indicates its getting choked up. That basket will e righ in front of your pump, with a removable lid.

4. Is your home on a water softener? If so, ask your softener company (if its a rental) for your water reading from when they installed it. Iron in the water can be released when slamming -- "oxidized" -- and can change the water color but dont panic if this happens. if you suspect metals a all (which i would) i dont think it would hurt to add a bottle of metal sequestrant now. TFP generally recommends either jacks magic or Metal Magic. I get the latter from http://www.poolgeek.com/products/proteam-metal-magic-1-qt

If you DO hav a water softener, a reading will NOT be meaningful from an indoor, softened tap. That's because your outdoor faucets will likely bypass the softener. If you decide to get. Metal test kit, only test the outdoor sources.

For the purposes of just getting the slam handled, you don't need to get one, but if you have metals you I'll eventually want to help reduce the amount you're adding with top up water by using a filter on the hose, which has helped me a good bit over a few yearsin terms of reducing my iron load.

Lastly, I'm sending you the tfp mojo to get your pool to sparkly fast ;) Here's a pic of 12 days of shock and awe on my recovery...

Cheers!
image.jpg
 
Swampwoman no offense but I knew exactly what my next steps are and you just confused me. Haha.
I don't think I was ready to process all that information.
As far as the metals and well water...only the outdoor spigots and sprinkler system are on well water. The rest of the house and one spigot in the front of the house run on city water.
Thinking about either filling the pool back up from a faucet in the house with an adapter, or with a long garden hose from the front spigot that runs off city water.

Either way I will not be putting well water in the pool. Maybe later when I learn more chemistry and can test for metals but as of right now I'm not looking for any more headaches.
I do however need to know 100% on whether or not I need to get some DE and run my filter. If it isn't necessary, but will help then I may not worry about it right away.
I still took your advice Swampwoman. Just didn't understand it all the way. :)


I'm Mobile
 
I'd use the city water. Well water around here seems to turn everything orange (sidewalks etc) and I'd imagine that's probably metals...iron.

I have a sand filter so I only know about DE filters from what I've read here.

What I've read is they are absolutely great for clearing things up because they filter down to the tiniest bits.
Unfortunately that also means that they get dirty very quickly and need to be backwashed frequently when starting out with a swamp.

I've seen it recommended several times to run the pump with the filter set to recirculate (hopefully you have this setting) in the first stages of the SLAM while you're working on killing everything.
Only switch to filter mode when you can babysit the filter and be there to backwash it when the pressure rises 25% above "clean pressure" (right after a backwash, when the filter is running in filter mode, check your gauge. That's your "clean" pressure. )

It's my understanding that with a DE filter and a swamp you may be backwashing very frequently at first (every 30 min -1 hr or 2) and there is an additional step of adding DE after a backwash that those of us with sand filters don't have.

Hopefully someone with a DE filter can help if you have questions about that process. Not hopefully! Someone will definitely help! This is TFP!


Make sure you have some DE and keep stocking up on bleach and when you get that fas/dpd test you'll be ready to go!
 
Bought some bleach today at a Dollar General. $2.95. I got 17 121oz jugs. Still haven't been to Walmart yet. Dollar General was on my way home.
Ordered the whole TF-100 kit last night. I figured I would use it. I can still use the other kit as well so it wasn't a complete waste. I got the XL option and it has already shipped. Got the email this morning.
Getting ready to add some CYA and rake some more. I figured I won't be vacuuming to waste anytime soon so it's safe to put it in there now. Plus I'm already below the skimmers from messing around yesterday.
I will fill with city water when the kit gets here, check my CYA and Ph levels after to see if I need to add, and start the SLAM.


I'm Mobile
 
Quick reply, when you add the CYA use the Sock method, don't just pour it into the skimmer.

Have you come across that yet in the forum? Sock method = put the CYA in a sock ( I stole and old one from my husband :p) and tie it in front of a return.

In my case that meant...tying the sock in a knot at the top and tying it to the frame of my pool. Those with inground pools seem to tie it to a pole or stick of some sort sorta hanging over the edge in front of the return so the water hits it. You can squeeze it every now and then to help it dissolve. The stuff you bought is the same as what I got and it dissolved pretty quickly.

Other alternative is to put the sock into the skimmer basket...as long as it's not going to mess up the flow of your skimmer.

Just a double check, on the bleach you got, did you check the % strength of it? Some stores sell stuff cheap but it's a lower %...therefore not necessarily cheaper. 8.25% is the general "norm" for household bleach these days. It used to be 6% but sometimes (for example, cheapie stuff they have in Big Lots) can be as low as 2.5% which just isn't worth it. If it doesn't say a %....they're probably too ashamed to admit it's that low and it might not be worth it.

It looks like you're getting a plan together...so that's a good thing. I would guess you'll get the kit as soon as Thursday!
 

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