Frustrated in Florida (with pics)

Will this conversion work if I am working all week and only able to add chlorine early in the a.m. and in the evening? Also, my kit won't be here until probably mid-week. Should I stop and resume the conversion later in the week or just keep dumping in the chlorine using test sticks to measure fc?
 
Even if you only have a simple OTO (drops turn the sample various shades of yellow) test kit you can do the first two thirds of a baquacil conversion. You only need the FAS-DPD test kit towards the end. Only being able to work on the pool once or twice a day will slow things down, but there is no reason not to go ahead and do what you can right now.

With the simple test kit, you test the water and do nothing unless you are sure the chlorine reading is below 5. Any time the chlorine reading is below 5, add enough chlorine to bring the level back up to between 20 and 25 by calculating the amount of bleach needed to reach that level. You can use my Pool Calculator to calculate the right amount of bleach, see the link in my signature.

The more often you can test and add chlorine, the faster the whole process will go. But even if you can only do it once a day you will still be making real progress.
 
OK, it's Tuesday morning and I just tested (stick) and my pool has 10+ chlorine in it! It had 10+ when I went to bed and it held overnight!!! Woohoo! That's a first. However, it is still very green. Is that normal? From what I've been reading in other conversions, it seems like when the pools hold overnight, they start to begin turning blue.
My TF kit should be here soon, maybe tomorrow, but for now, not sure what my next step is.

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Because you have some CYA in the water already, everything is going to go more slowly. That is probably why you were able to maintain some chlorine overnight even through the pool is still gray/green. Also, your current test kit probably doesn't distinguish FC from CC. The CC level can be very high during the middle stage of a conversion, so it is possible that the FC level is actually quite low.

Continue on as I suggested previously, adding chlorine when the level is below 5, probably this evening, until you get your new kit.
 
Got my kit, here are my numbers.
FC: 5.0
CC: 7.5
pH: 6.8
Alk: 80
CYA: 30

What now? Not sure how high I should bring up the FC level (shock or mustard algae levels)???????
I'm going to shoot for 15, if I need to go higher, somebody let me know. :)
 
You say the next time my FC is 8 or lower....do you mean after the conversion is done?
Also, I looked on the pool calculator to see how to raise the pH and it says add washing soda or soda ash...what is that? Is that the Borax I've been reading about on here?
I'm getting really concerned about how long my pool has been green. Could there be a problem?
How long do I need to keep the FC at 20? Sorry for all the questions, but I want to get this done!
 

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Numbers last night at 10:00 were
FC: 20
CC: 8.5
This morning at 7 my numbers were
FC: 19
CC: 8

I'm not sure that I should add any bleach due to the already high fc level, but how does the cc level come down if I'm not adding more bleach? Are these numbers showing that I"m still in the middle of conversion, I think I'm getting close though!
Patiently waiting on a sparkling blue pool.
BTW, I really appreciate everyone's advice. I couldn't be doing this without everyone's help!!! :-D
 
High FC levels and sunlight will slowly drive down the CC numbers.

If you didn't have any CYA in the water you would be two to four days from complete. However, CYA slows the process down, so it will be a bit longer than that before you are completely finished.
 
Thanks for the support! The CYA is in the water because the guys at the pool store told me to add it a couple weeks ago. :hammer:
Sorry about the panicked tone, but this is going on 3 weeks now, between the pool store conversion advice and now going with the bbb method. However, I will say that my pool looks clearer today and slightly less green. I really think I'm headed in the right direction.....slowly!
 
My filter is only about a month old, do I still need to replace it?
Also, can I let the FC levels drop to 15 now or do I still need to keep them at 20?
Numbers at 1:30
FC: 16.5
CC: 8.5
TC: 25

Numbers at 5:00
FC: 15
CC: 7
TC: 22
Gimme a guess as to how far away I am from a swimable, BLUE pool. Thanks!!!!
newcamerag8rs001.jpg
 
Replacing the filter cartridge is a really good idea. Baq goo tends to solidify in the filter ruining the cartridge to some extent, sometimes dramatically sometime less so but always noticablly

Keeping FC at 20 will speed up the process but it isn't required.

It will take a couple/several sunny days to get your CC level down to 0.5, at which point the conversion is complete. You can swim now but the CC might well irritate your skin. Replacing the cartrdge will also speed things up.
 
Sunday morning:
Pool still green.
FC: 10.5
CC: 6
TC: 16.5
I added chlorine to boost level to 20. Could the green be from the brand Clorox or maybe copper in the water or just an incomplete conversion? Or do I need more P.O.P.! :) Just stabbing in the dark here.
Also, do I keep boosting to 20 until my CC level is .5?
Sorry for so many questions, but I'm still pretty new to all this.
Thanks so much!
 
I expect the green to fade as the CC level comes down, and go away completely by the time the conversion is done. It is remotely possible it is something else, but most likely it is baquacil in the final stage of breaking down.

Yes, keep FC at 20 till CC is 0.5 or lower.
 

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