Rivet question re grab size and question for those who didn't use rivets...

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R

RiffeShooter

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Jun 20, 2014
133
Lake Jackson, Texas
I'm still on the fence on whether or not I am going to use rivets. I purchased an air powered rivet gun just in case I do but my questions are...

I see everyone saying to use 1/8" rivets, but what grab size are you using? In particular, I plan on using the 10 x 10 L straps on the overhang so I want to make sure I get the right grab to go through those. I plan on using 20 gauge studs.

Second, for those of you who did not use rivets, did you have any issue with your board not going on straight? Since so many do use screws I suspect this is not a problem but did run across a couple of threads on the net saying it is. I can see a slight time advantage of using the screws but really drilling a hole for a rivet is no big deal and taking one out is about the same time and you still have a usable hole to work with.

Aside from the longevity and not backing out, are rivets truly stronger than the screws?

Getting close to starting a build. I have the grill on hand a door on the way and also ordered a side burner, another door, and a drawer setup today. I'm going to try and pick up the metal studs next week. Still have some stuff to do around the house before starting another project...

If it matters, I'm going to use 1/2" Wonderboard Lite all around since I have a bunch here for a flooring project I am working on and need to switch that project to 1/4". I guess I could always bring it back for exchange but since it is here, might as well use it right?
 
That's what I figured, thanks! From what I can tell on the rivets, I'll need two sizes... 1/8" x 1/8" grab for the normal stud construction and 1/8" x 1/4" for the spots with the L straps. This is assuming the 20 gauge steel I get is .031 thick. The L strap is .074. Meh, I'll eventually figure it out, just being lazy hoping someone already knew. Lol
 
I started using rivets, and had a pneumatic rivet gut that never really worked for me. Probably because it was a real cheap one. As a result I switched to screws and they were so much easier. Not more broken drill bits from pre-drilling and the riveting was just a lot harder for me. It did create a slight unevenness to it but depending on what you are skinning it with all of that gets covered. I used stucco on the sides of mine, where I used screws, and I had no issues at all as the stucco is troweled even. I can't think of any covering that the screws would create problems for. Stone veneer seems like would have even less of an issue. That being said I did drill and hand rivet the top. I guess I was fearing it might cause my concrete counter to have some artificial point loads. So I guess I used both. I think whatever you are comfortable using will work. Don't overthink it :)

Riles
 
A bit late on this, but I'd go with the screws (time saving) and you're not over-thinking it at all. There is an issue with the backer-board seating properly against the frame, but there are two types (maybe more). Use the type with the pan/rounded head (phillips drive) and it eliminates the problem.
 
I bought these self drilling 1/2" pan head zinc plated screws at a local lumber yard in a 5 pound box (about 500 screws) for about $14.00. These screws have a very flat wide head that makes them perfect for putting steel 20ga studs together. So far I'm about 3/4 of the way through my ODK frame build. I'll start a thread once I get to a point where I think I have something to show. Also, it takes a decent amount of time to place vise grip clamps on each stud connection, before installing the screws. I couldn't imagine having to clamp, drill, and then rivet. I'm a mechanical engineer. Forget all that point loading mumbo jumbo and start building your frame!!

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I used zinc coated self tapping screws and then sprayed each screw, front and back, with galvanized spray. I used the quick release plastic clamps from lowes I believe. It is a lot of work moving all the clamps around.

Also, I built mine in the garage where it was flat. The patio wasn't quite perfectly flat. If your final area isn't flat built on site so you can match the contour and the counter is still flat. It took a lot to fix mine when I moved the frame around back.
 

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