Heater Replacement

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cpropes2005

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Jul 26, 2013
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I have a Hayward IDL1 400k BTU heater that I am looking to replace. The reviews I have read on new Hayward heaters weren’t great and so after doing some reading on here I am leaning towards getting the Raypack 406k Natural Gas from the website below. (009219 on that site).

http://www.bestbuypoolsupply.com/raypak-spa-pool-heaters.html


I just have a couple of questions that I was hoping I to answer before I pull the trigger.

1. What is the difference between the Cupro-Nickel and the regular version? Is the Cupro-Nickel worth the extra money?
2. Is this heater 110 or 220V? My Hayward is 220V so I am trying to figure out if I will have to run new wires. I would assume I should already have 110V out there for other stuff like the salt water generator but I haven’t checked it out yet.
3. I was thinking about adding a manual bypass when I did the install so that the heater only gets water when I turn it on but the description for this heater says it has a built in bypass. Does this mean bypassing it externally is unnecessary?
4. Any bad experiences with this online store? I read a few threads that recommended them but I am cautious with such a large purchase to a store I have never used.
5. Anything else I am missing?
 
cpropes2005 said:
I have a Hayward IDL1 400k BTU heater that I am looking to replace. The reviews I have read on new Hayward heaters weren’t great and so after doing some reading on here I am leaning towards getting the Raypack 406k Natural Gas from the website below. (009219 on that site).

http://www.bestbuypoolsupply.com/raypak-spa-pool-heaters.html


I just have a couple of questions that I was hoping I to answer before I pull the trigger.

1. What is the difference between the Cupro-Nickel and the regular version? Is the Cupro-Nickel worth the extra money?
2. Is this heater 110 or 220V? My Hayward is 220V so I am trying to figure out if I will have to run new wires. I would assume I should already have 110V out there for other stuff like the salt water generator but I haven’t checked it out yet.
3. I was thinking about adding a manual bypass when I did the install so that the heater only gets water when I turn it on but the description for this heater says it has a built in bypass. Does this mean bypassing it externally is unnecessary?
4. Any bad experiences with this online store? I read a few threads that recommended them but I am cautious with such a large purchase to a store I have never used.
5. Anything else I am missing?
Click to expand...


1. In a residential setting, cupro nickel is really not warranted. Many people say of you have a salt pool you need this but I disagree and have many salt pool customers that are happy with their non cupro nickle heater.

2. Yes the heater can be either. Where you wire the unit, it has a 110 and a 220 wire of which you would use the correct one according to what you have.

3. Yes it would be good to add a manual bypass. The internal one is used differently to bypass water. So go ahead and build one at install time.

4. Be careful about purchasing online. Raypak doesn't support units purchased via the internet and it's written in their documentation. Many of the manufacturers are doing this as well. They are tired of spending money for repairs on units improperly installed.

5. Raypak is a good solid unit. Probably the better heater on the market today.
 
Ok great. Thanks for the detailed reply. I hear you about buying online but the cheapest I have been able to find locally is about $1000 more expensive plus installation which I have a hard time with especially when the install seems to be pretty straightforward. I have one other local place to check and then I will probably just go ahead and order it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
benzinok said:
I am replacing a 2 year old Rheem 406 heater unit that had major corrosion issues. I agree with you that there seems to be no outstanding heater out there. So I ordered another unit figuring I could use several of the good parts for spares.
http://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/86450-Main-Ignition-Failure-Rheem-M406A-EN-C-Heater
I purchased mine online as well.
Click to expand...

Can you explain "corrosion"? I know in the last two years they have started replacing the bottom pan with stainless as the older units sometimes rusted out on the bottom after 7+ years. Of course there is lots to do with it would rust out. I find sprinkler heads pointed at units and also lots of times condensation coming off of the heat exchanger. So if you have sprinklers close by, make sure they aren't going to spray on the heater. If you have condensation problems, I have been able to divert some of it with building an external bypass to divert some water back to the pool. This allows better flow thru the unit and thus preventing the condensation.

How do you know if you have condensation? When the unit is running you will hear water droplets falling down onto the burners and sizzling. It's pretty obvious when you hear it.
 
cpropes2005 said:
... I hear you about buying online but the cheapest I have been able to find locally is about $1000 more expensive plus installation which I have a hard time with especially when the install seems to be pretty straightforward....
Click to expand...
I'm with you about buying online. A thousand dollars is real money and I'd buy online to save that much.

I'm going on 10 years use out of my Teledyne Laars that I bought online. At the time I bought it, I had an honest & reliable pool guy. I told him I'd buy the heater from him if he could get within $300 of the online price, but he just couldn't get close. He said he'd install it for the same price as if I bought it from him and he did.

Good luck!
 
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