Slamming Pool
- Thread starter lrkey
- Start date
Ok cool. Just making sure as I've seen people not recharge after a backwash. ?
It is forecast to rain here tonight. What effect, if any, does rain have on the SLAM process?
I would hate to see all this effort go to waste.
I would hate to see all this effort go to waste.
How far below the top of the tile line is your water line?
My water sits 3" below the tile line. 3" of water is 870 gallons into my pool if the rain fills it that much. That an additional 5% fresh water. That will have little or no impact on any of my water chemistry values.
Top off your FC value for the evening and add a little extra to compensate for the rain.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
My water sits 3" below the tile line. 3" of water is 870 gallons into my pool if the rain fills it that much. That an additional 5% fresh water. That will have little or no impact on any of my water chemistry values.
Top off your FC value for the evening and add a little extra to compensate for the rain.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Very little effects from rain. Algae doesn't stop growing in the rain so don't stop testing and dosing your pool. Keep at it!
A couple things are bothering me here. First as soon as you got your test kit your cya was 20. Someone suggested you get it up to 30. Did you? That would help protect your FC from the sun a little bit better. Are you using pool math to determine how much bleach to put in to get your FC up to slam level. Do you know what your shock/slam level is? For cya of 20, if it's 10. Anything over that will burn up faster.
OK folks. Here is latest on the slam. The good news, the pool is clear blue, I have no more green, it has been that way for a couple of days now. There is what appears to be dead algae on some parts of the bottom, I can see all the way to the bottom everywhere in the pool, it is Crystal clear, the skimmers are mostly clear and the pool filter is holding steady at about 10-12%. The only problem appears to be doing the FAS/DPD tests. The are all over the chart each time I do them. Sometimes they are real low, other times they are higher. I am following the directions for doing the tests, but can't seem to get right. Not sure what to do at this juncture, except vacuum the rest of that algae off the bottom of the pool. Should I continue to pour bleach, or start putting regular chlorine in it. I am all confused. Suggestions appreciated.
Can you give us an idea of what FC and CC values you have been getting? What sample size you are using, etc? You should also try to measure the same time every day.
Also, during this phase, you should be brushing and vacuuming as much as you can to get good circulation of the water and mix all that dead algae up so the filter can suck it up.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Also, during this phase, you should be brushing and vacuuming as much as you can to get good circulation of the water and mix all that dead algae up so the filter can suck it up.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
The bleach IS ur chlorine if you are going to follow the TFP method. Once u pass the criteria the SLAM is over, let ur FC drift down then maintain ur targeted FC according to ur CYA.
"Can you give us an idea of what FC and CC values you have been getting? What sample size you are using, etc? You should also try to measure the same time every day.
Also, during this phase, you should be brushing and vacuuming as much as you can to get good circulation of the water and mix all that dead algae up so the folder can suck it up. "
The FC had been running anywhere from 2.5 - 12. The CC has been running anywhere from 0 - 5. I have been using 10ml of pool water to do my testing, just like the FAS/DPD says to do.
Also, during this phase, you should be brushing and vacuuming as much as you can to get good circulation of the water and mix all that dead algae up so the folder can suck it up. "
The FC had been running anywhere from 2.5 - 12. The CC has been running anywhere from 0 - 5. I have been using 10ml of pool water to do my testing, just like the FAS/DPD says to do.
I just want to say that dead algae on the bottom does not equal to crystal clear. Are you keeping a log of your test results and how much bleach you are adding? This will give an idea if you are either: a) overestimate the size of your pool, b) underestimating the strength of your bleach, or c) error in your use of pool math.
What is your CYA? How often are you testing FC?
Please add your pool details to your signature... many of us read many posts and having your info in your signature makes it easier, faster and you'll get better advice.
Signature
Please put the following information in your signature.
The size of your pool in gallons
If your pool is an AG (above ground) or IG (in ground)
If it's IG, tell us if it's vinyl, plaster/pebble, or fiberglass
The type of filter you have (sand, DE, cartridge) and, if you know, the brand and model of the filter.
If you know, please tell us the brand and model of the pump, and mention if is it a two speed or variable speed pump.
Date of pool build/install, particularly important if less then a year old.
What kind/model of water test kit you are using
Other significant accessories or options, such as a spa , SWG, or cleaner.
What is your CYA? How often are you testing FC?
Please add your pool details to your signature... many of us read many posts and having your info in your signature makes it easier, faster and you'll get better advice.
Signature
Please put the following information in your signature.
The size of your pool in gallons
If your pool is an AG (above ground) or IG (in ground)
If it's IG, tell us if it's vinyl, plaster/pebble, or fiberglass
The type of filter you have (sand, DE, cartridge) and, if you know, the brand and model of the filter.
If you know, please tell us the brand and model of the pump, and mention if is it a two speed or variable speed pump.
Date of pool build/install, particularly important if less then a year old.
What kind/model of water test kit you are using
Other significant accessories or options, such as a spa , SWG, or cleaner.
Ok.
So during a SLAM you should always try to measure as frequently as your chemicals and time permits. As well, you should always try to measure and dose chemicals at the same time of day.
FC will fluctuate a lot during the SLAM especially initially as you kill the algae but also to a lesser extent as the algae is oxidized into organics. If your FC falls below shock level during the SLAM (which it can easily do in the beginning), that can give algae time to partially grow again. This can lead to some cyclical FC behavior in the beginning where you kill say 80% of the algae, FC drops and it grows back, then you kill some more, etc, etc.
CCs can be a bit more cyclical as well since anything dead or dying will turn into a "mush" of organic chemicals and biological waste. The CCs will reflect that level of "gunk" in the water, your pipes, and your filter media. Backwashing your filter will help remove junk from the water and lower CCs temporarily.
This is why the SLAM is only considered complete when you pass the OCLT criteria -
1. Clear water;
2. CCs of 0.5ppm or less;
3. Overnight chlorine loss (FC) of less than 1ppm
This is all measured at shock level (not target FC) and the criteria are defined as such because together they represent complete eradication of the algae and all associated CCs.
So I would say you need to keep going until you pass OCLT. Looks like you've got #1 but you still need the rest.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
So during a SLAM you should always try to measure as frequently as your chemicals and time permits. As well, you should always try to measure and dose chemicals at the same time of day.
FC will fluctuate a lot during the SLAM especially initially as you kill the algae but also to a lesser extent as the algae is oxidized into organics. If your FC falls below shock level during the SLAM (which it can easily do in the beginning), that can give algae time to partially grow again. This can lead to some cyclical FC behavior in the beginning where you kill say 80% of the algae, FC drops and it grows back, then you kill some more, etc, etc.
CCs can be a bit more cyclical as well since anything dead or dying will turn into a "mush" of organic chemicals and biological waste. The CCs will reflect that level of "gunk" in the water, your pipes, and your filter media. Backwashing your filter will help remove junk from the water and lower CCs temporarily.
This is why the SLAM is only considered complete when you pass the OCLT criteria -
1. Clear water;
2. CCs of 0.5ppm or less;
3. Overnight chlorine loss (FC) of less than 1ppm
This is all measured at shock level (not target FC) and the criteria are defined as such because together they represent complete eradication of the algae and all associated CCs.
So I would say you need to keep going until you pass OCLT. Looks like you've got #1 but you still need the rest.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk