Need help please
- Thread starter Imxelite
- Start date
I would advise adjusting the pH immediately.
8.2 is the maximum reading and anything higher just reads as 8.2, your pH might be much higher.
Depends on volume of pool, pool surface, water table levels, water restrictions, etc.
yeah here with temps 115+ if i were to drain my pool my plaster would crack... vinyl liners would shift... fiberglass pools can float... water can almost always be fixed
Once you get going, it may clear up faster than you think. It's an awesome feeling to see a pool go (sometimes very fast) from green to grey once bleach kicks in at shock level...then slowly from grey to clear as dead algae is filtered out.
The advice already given here is good...no need for me to say it all again. Bleach to kill algae, muriatic acid for pH, stabilizer to keep your bleach from burning up in the sun.
Follow the SLAM process as closely as you can...it has worked miracles for many people here, which is how and why there are so many people here willing to help.
I'd say try to fix it before you consider refill, which can invite other problems.
Did you start the bleach yet? That's job #1.
The advice already given here is good...no need for me to say it all again. Bleach to kill algae, muriatic acid for pH, stabilizer to keep your bleach from burning up in the sun.
Follow the SLAM process as closely as you can...it has worked miracles for many people here, which is how and why there are so many people here willing to help.
I'd say try to fix it before you consider refill, which can invite other problems.
Did you start the bleach yet? That's job #1.
Since his CYA is at zero, why can't he just use pucks which will add CYA and is cheap? Add bleach in the evenings to make sure it is killing algae and not getting killed by the sun. A big thing is to get your PH to a good level of 7.2-7.6 and the pool store test should be pretty accurate for PH until you get a good test kit. The pucks are easier if you need to add CYA anyway or if you are on vacation or something.
While a slam can be done using pucks and bleach at the same time, It is much easier, at least in the learning stage, to add chemicals in a way so that you are only keeping track of one parameter at a time. With the pucks, yes, its just toss and go, but each addition changes chlorine, cya, and ph at the same time. Unless he has a severe ph, updrift then that could actually cause issues with dropping ph to an unsafe low level, especially since ph tests are unreliable at slam levels. I have seen several threads already where people coming off of pucks have had extremely low oh and ta. Pucks would also need to be removed before performing the oclt.
Update: last night I added the acid to lower my PH and now it is at 7.5 per the tf100 testkit. I just added the bleach to raise the shock level to 10. When should I check again to see if I need to add more today?
Check again in an hour and add more bleach add needed you will be adding a lot and often for the first few days
I'm always curious about this, especially with really bad pools. Keep track, and let us know how long before you notice a change in color.
Thanks I will do that. I also have an automatic chlorinater should I turn that off during the shock process?
Yes you really don't want to use tablets add they will drive the cya level up. .. what is the cya level at?
Yeah keep it off during the slam. .. it will need to be off to do the oclt anyway you should try to get cya to 30 for the slam though. ..
Raise your cya to 30 using granular Stabilizer, pucks will take too long to get it up. I used 20 in my calculations before. Since you really can't know what it is, I'd still put in what I recommended before.
Once again I'm having issues with my equipment. I was so close the pool cleared up in two days now it's only slightly green. Due to algae and other stuff on the floor that I couldn't see before.. While vacuuming to waste the line clogged again and the pressure dropped. I cleaned the pump basket and tried using the hose to free up the debris in the line. No luck. At this point would it be wise for me to purchase an air compressor myself instead of calling the pool people again ($149 charge)?
I got the pool running again and it looks really clear but I have algae that I can vacuum up from the bottom of the pool. I'll post pictures of the progress.
Test your water clarity AFTER brushing. If you can toss a quarter in the deep end immediately after a thorough brushing and still see it, the water is clear. A few days after passing all three tests to indicate the end of the SLAM, you'll probably be able to call heads or tails on that same quarter.