Water Level Drops

Don't want to sound stupid but I'm not sure I understand about the pavers and the gravel. I visualize filling the cut area around the pipes with gravel and then laying pavers on top.

I am trying to figure out how to raise the pipes and valves and then connect to the pump

I was also thinking of filling in the cut out area with gravel and using pavers or patio blocks if you needed more slab space.

You could raise the height of the pump with patio blocks. That would raise the height of the pipes feeding into it from the manifold. You could also make the pipes a little taller coming out of the ground and use 90 degree elbows to connect to the pump, similar to how the line from the pump goes into the filter. The current set up has everything butted together so tight it would be difficult to saw into the lines to make repairs, unless you have a power reciprocating saw. I think you could also push the pump and filter back a bit after you pull the heater out and put the valves on the horizontal run of the pipes.
 
Man, they did not do you any favors on that plumbing!

I think I'd move all the equipment back a couple of feet and then start the rework from there. I'd probably only add unions on the suction and discharge of the pump and the inlet and outlet of the filter.

I'd raise all the valves up a few inches when you're replacing them and then transition back down a little to the pump or raise it and the filter up on a platform a little.
 
I have not thought about orientation, but would suggest a 3 way valve on the suction side between the spa and pool suction lines. Then you can add 2 ways or another 3 way on the pool side to adjust your pool suction location. This allows you to only have to move one suction valve to switch to spa mode and makes it possible to automate that in the future.
 
Sorry I don't completely understand... can you explain a little further what "spa mode" is regarding the proper valve settings?

Under normal daily operation I leave the skimmer valve on full and the pool main drain open some (sometimes I will open it fully such as brushing etc). I almost always have the spa returns on full so the water flows over and we hear that but maybe once or twice a week I open the spa drain to fully exchange the water

I have not thought about orientation, but would suggest a 3 way valve on the suction side between the spa and pool suction lines. Then you can add 2 ways or another 3 way on the pool side to adjust your pool suction location. This allows you to only have to move one suction valve to switch to spa mode and makes it possible to automate that in the future.
 
Spa mode would be when all the suction was only from the spa and all the return was only to the spa. This is what you need to actually heat and use the spa. You would only have to change 1 suction valve (a new 3 way) and the 1 return valve. This would also allow automation in the future which is not possible with the ball valves.
 
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