Looking for advice to clear Cloudy Water

I was thinking to shoot for 7.8 first. I am little perplexed by the pool math. I have a regular Muriactic acid from Home depot, It says its concentration is <25%. I am selecting 28%-18 Baume option,

which reading I should use. Add 72 Oz of 28% of Muriactic Acid or 87Oz by Weight

Pool math made easy: http://www.troublefreepool.com/calc.html

Sorry I had a different answer but I hadn't punched in your TA.
 
Maybe you had a dyslexic moment . . . is it supposed to be 27 oz, 72 is just a lot of acid for that size pool !!!

And like rterickson said you don't need to worry about it but I know that OCD feeling of needing to do something.
 
Ohh Patience, very difficult to practice.

When I enter 17K Pool with 300 TA and PH of 8.2 to have a Goal of 7.6 PH with 28% - 18, Pool Math suggest to add 60 Oz of Muriactic acid or 73 Oz by Weight.

Just for future which reading I should use, "by Weight" or the first one
 
Last few days We have not got much chance to keep the FC at 12. Water is decently clear now< i can c the bottom of the deep end of the pool as well :) and shallow end is pretty clear. I would say clarity on shallow end is 90% and deep end of the pool its 80 due to the dirt/silt. I could c the dirt at the corners on the deep end of the pool, when I try to vacuume its keeps coming back into the pool making the water cloudy, I guess Filter cant pick that up quicly enough, I have not done bachwash vacuuming since I cant drain the water except on the yard, with High FC it will ruin the grass. CC have been consistenly on .5 last 3 days. Over night loss of FC is usally 2 but during the day its a lot like 6 - 7. CYA is around 20-25
Current numbers are

FC 5
CC.5

Should I still bring the FC level back to 12 untill the water is 100%
 
Yes. You need to keep it MAINTAINED at 12ppm FC and only after passing the test to end your SLAM let it drift down to 3-4. Likely a little higher as once it's clean and blue you'll likely want to bring the CYA up a little. Otherwise you'll only be going backwards if you just stick around 5ppm now. You need to kill it all and have clear water for the lower FC level to keep it clean. http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/128-chlorine-cya-chart-slam-shock

SLAM:

Test the FC level and add enough chlorine to bring FC up to shock level (see here for correct shock level)
Test and adjust chlorine levels as frequently as practical, but not more than once per hour, and not less than twice a day. Chlorine additions should be frequent, especially at the beginning. Algae and other organic debris will consume chlorine very rapidly at first. As things progress, you will lose less chlorine each cycle and can add chlorine less frequently.
Brush and/or vacuum the entire pool once a day
Backwash or clean the filter as needed
Vacuum up debris as needed

You are done when:

CC is 0.5 or lower;
You pass an OCLT (ie overnight FC loss test shows a loss of 1.0 ppm or less);
And the water is clear.

When all three are true, you are done SLAMing and can allow the FC to drift down to normal levels.
 
I will try to maintain the FC back to 12. The rain storm we had made us focus more on the water behind the liner and not letting the pool over flow so the more water cant get behind the liner. Will concentrate back on FC now until Water is crystal clear. I will try to backwash too tommorow to get some of the silt out
 
I think Pool water clarity is looking good :) I could c the deep end of the pool pretty clearly now. Over night FC loss is around 1 and during the day is 4-5 and CC is .5. Does the group think slamming is complete.

CYA is 30
PH is around 7.8
TA is 280

should I adjust the PH to 7.2 and let the FC drift back to normal levels? Do I have to worry about the other levels Like Calcium ?
 

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I think Pool water clarity is looking good :) I could c the deep end of the pool pretty clearly now. Over night FC loss is around 1 and during the day is 4-5 and CC is .5. Does the group think slamming is complete.

CYA is 30
PH is around 7.8
TA is 280

should I adjust the PH to 7.2 and let the FC drift back to normal levels? Do I have to worry about the other levels Like Calcium ?
You're the one who is testing. If you're satisfied that you lost 1 or lss overnight, the water (and walls) are clear, and the CC is .5 or les, then the SLAM is done.

Let the FC drop below 10 and then retest everything. The pH test will be off if FC is above 10. If pH is low, aerate to bring it up - the high TA will take care of that. If high, adjust pH with acid first. You should also consider raising the CYA level and maintain the appropriate FC level for that CYA from here on out.
 
I think I need to address my low suction issue cze the water is getting cloudy a little again could be due to the poor circulation ( FC levels are consistent around 4 )?

I dont think anything is clogged in the plumbing because when I turn off one skimmer the suction is good on the other one and vice versa. When I try to turn on my Polaris pump then the suction gets better on both the skimmers. Somebody mentioned earlier that it could be the pump issue? I have 7 year Old pump (Hayward SP3207EE TriStar 3/4 HP Energy Efficient Pool Pump ). look and sound ok. Is there a way to clean pump or replace a specific part on it or I have to start planning on getting a new one

I also need recommendation on how to set the directions of the eye balls. I have 5 returns, 2 on stairs pointing straight at each other. two in the middle, one pointing upwards towards the water surface and create lot of waves and second pointed straight. One towards the deep end of the pool pointing straight. Is the direction of all the eye balls needs to be adjusted ?

I bought some Doheny's pool shock from Amazon before I joined the TFP, never used it. Amazon dont return the chemicals, should I use them instead of liquid Chlorine I have been using since I joined the TFP or give it away or something
 
Poor circulation, maybe. You haven't posted any numbers in two weeks. :testresults:
A picture or two might be nice so we can see what you are talking about. Middle of the steps looking down into the pool is nice as the steps give a way to gauge distance and clarity.

Doheny's pool shock: Is it labeled as a calcium hypochlorite shock ??

Maybe someone can advise you on eyeballs but the thing is, almost every pool is different. Different size, depth, placement of returns, number of returns, pump, filter, ... :confused:
I will rotate mine depending on if I'm looking to use them to skim off the daily debris that's floating on top or move one of them to help mix chemicals or aim them all down to mix the pool and push warm water to the bottom.
It's a matter of trial and error. For skimming debris from the surface I try to set the jets so they ruffle the surface water a little and push it the same direction so I have a clockwise or counter clockwise action. Sometimes wind direction will make a difference too. If I get a wind that's pushing towards the stairs nothing I do gets the stuff out of that cove until the wind dies down or shifts.
 
Doheny's pool shock: Is it labeled as a calcium hypochlorite shock.............. that is correct

I will post the pictures and test results once I get home. but essentially from last couple of weeks we are maintaining the FC at 4. The funny thing is that kids have not even gone in once ( too little to go by them self ) and I am finding it difficult to keep up with the maintenance. I wonder what I would do once they start using it

Lets c if other experts have any comments on skimmer issue and eyeballs placement
 
Depending on your calcium and alkalinity levels you could use up the Doheny's shock a little here and there but you want to be careful it doesn't add to your cloudiness issue. Cal-Hypo can temporarily make water cloudy, but in a high T/A, High calcium situation, it can also push your calcium level to the point where the water goes cloudy. For every 10 ppm FC added by Cal-Hypo, it also adds 7 ppm to CH.
 
The funny thing is that kids have not even gone in once ( too little to go by them self ) and I am finding it difficult to keep up with the maintenance. I wonder what I would do once they start using it

If you do your own testing, you can test before they get in and after they are out. Depending on the FC loss and if you come close to or below your 2ppm minimum (presently) you could actually pre-dose the pool with a shot of bleach once you know the average drop in FC from how many swimmers being in the pool how long causes.
You can always bring it up as close to SLAM as you want and still be safe to swim but putting it in before they swim might be a better way to go than trying to recover after. Keep a log and you will be able to better guesstimate what to add for the pools use.
 
Well there is the policy and then reality. Nice to know the policy or the dilution is work for you :goodjob:
Whatever it takes to keep that FC at the proper level is all you need :)
 
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