Winter Pool Care

Is your pool closed ?

I would recommend maintaing the balance. At the very least keeping FC in the pool. With that said things slow down a fair amount with low water temps. Your FC loss will drop off a great deal, especially it it's covered. The risk of algae outbreak is greatly lowered with water temps in the 50's and below. Not to say it can't happen.





If it were my pool where you live I would still keep an eye on things. I wouldn't want any problems in the spring if I could help it. I'm a proactive type of person.
 
total chemical balance
I am not sure what you mean by that but I assume you are currently not testing your water, correct.

You can not keep your water within the ranges we suggest unless you test.

If you let your parameters get far from normal, then you have a bigger cleanup and adjustment period in the Spring.

So, whether you do it during the winter (that's my first choice) or catch it all at once in the Spring is your call.

Everything we teach, though, depends on accurate testing and dosing so we have an idea where you are.

Post test results if you have them.....What does your water look like?
 
The pool installer (not having any allience to a pool suppy store) "warned" me not to use bleach for chloronation. Being the new dummy, I didn't ask why not. So...what's the harm with using tablets? Help.....

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oh, the water is crystal clear
 
The pool installer (not having any allience to a pool suppy store) "warned" me not to use bleach for chloronation. Being the new dummy, I didn't ask why not. So...what's the harm with using tablets? Help.....

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oh, the water is crystal clear

First thing, your pool builder is 100% wrong in saying you can't use bleach for chlorine. It's one of the best forms of chlorine and has NO side affects. I use it exclusively along with thousands of others on this forum.

The tabs are stabilized chlorine. Long term use is not good. They will continually add CYA "stabilizer ". When this level gets too high you can't keep FC levels in range and you have an alage outbreak. They are also acidic and that's not good for your PH levels. There are countless threads on this forum with problems from using tabs. Just look around.

Take sometime and do some reading in pool school. The ABC's of pool water chemistry and how to chlorinate your pool is a good place to start.

Do you have a test kit ?
 
The pool installer (not having any allience to a pool suppy store) "warned" me not to use bleach for chloronation. Being the new dummy, I didn't ask why not. So...what's the harm with using tablets? Help.....
I'm glad you asked!

Here's a little something I wrote last season. I still think it's one of my best pieces of writing.
We'll take a 16000 gallon pool, because that's what I have. On a fresh fill, prominent national pool chain recommends 2.5 pounds pf stabilizer per 10,000 gallons, which works out nicely to 4 pounds which brings CYA to 30.

With an average loss of 2 PPM/Day or 14 ppm/week, I'll have added 8.6 PPM/CYA if I used trichlor pucks perfectly. And they recommend a weekly "shock" of dichlor between 5 and 10 FC.... 2-3 oz per 10,000 gallons. Split the difference; I'll add 4 oz. CYA went up another .9.

So..by the end of week one, I have added 9.5 more CYA. It is now 39.5. Mimimum FC for that is 3, so I'm probably okay.

Week two, up to 49 CYA.
Week three, 58.5. Minimum FC should be 5, but they recommend 3 as ideal, so the pool looks a bit hazy. So I'll toss in a little extra dichlor "shock" to jack FC up to 10. Which adds another 6.4 CYA. Keeping count? We're up to 64.9 now.

That caught the algae just in time.. we had two weeks of good luck. A steady diet of pucks and 4 oz. "shock" each week only added another 19, up to 73.9 now.

Week 6 it started looking funky, so we "shocked"it once again. CYA is up to 99.3. But minimum FC to keep algae at bay is 8, and we're still holding things to 3, because prominent national chain's preprinted sheet shows that as ideal. So algae got a toehold and the pool has a bit of a tint. So we throw two whole bags of dichlor in which jacks it another 7.6 by the time week 7 is over, we're at 116.4, because we had pucks in the floater the whole time.

So...in 7 weeks, from 30 to 116.4. Let's say there are no more algae outbreaks because they sold me a huge bucket of phos-free and another of yellow-out monopersulfate "shock" Nothing but the pucks and the extra 4 oz of dichlor "shock" weekly. So the next 7 weeks added 66.5, which brings the total to 182.9 CYA.

Now if we didn't understand this and things looked a bit hazy, we might throw an extra puck or two in the floater every couple weeks, which will drive it over 200 easily.


And then next year when you try to open, you're whining here how you "shocked" it and it's still green. And then you get indignant at the cost and bother to drain 3/4 of the pool. Seen it over and over and over and over here.

This is all based on a roughly 3 month swim season. If you run pucks year-round, it'll be even higher.

 

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