Hi, I have the Swimpure system and the t-cell-15. Back in April I cleaned the cell (and I probably did something stupid like adding acid first, don't remember) and I blew a fuse, and the board lost power. I replaced the fuse and had power back but ever since then the check salt and check cell lights have been coming on.
I checked repeatedly and many ways and at different places and my salt level is actually about 3500. I have to go out every day and manually reset the box so the lights will go off and it will get good readings and produce chlorine.
Some time over night the display comes to a ridiculous level (like 900) and the lights come on.
I replaced the t-cell, no change. ($$$!)
I replaced the whole board last week. ($$$!) It worked that day, but the next morning the lights were on.
I just called Hayward/Goldline and they said all is well! I said, "Why do I have to do this every day?" "I don't know." Suggested calling tomorrow before I reset it.
On this forum I have noticed other people had the same problem, but few return to say the fix, other than those who replaced the thermistor. I replaced the whole board and I still have trouble!
I also looked at the flow switch, and it has some muddy brown stuff on it and in the pvc pipe, and it comes off when rubbed. I don't know what that is. Also, my cya level was 30 and yesterday I added a gallon to raise it, but I doubt these have anything to do with it.
Does any one else have any ideas? I can call Hayward again tomorrow but I have a feeling they will just have me do the manual reset that I have been doing every day!
This is what the diagnostics say today after the daily reset:
3500 salinity
87 temp
25.5 volts
6.15 amps
90 %output
3500 instant salinity
al-0 swimpure
1.58 software
t-15 cell
I didn't record the "crazy" values today before the reset, but I will do that tomorrow.
I found a great trouble shooting document:
http://www.nuccibros.com/sec_0934drRb_d ... -Guide.pdf
But I don't find it helpful since I have already replaced the board and the t-cell. It doesn't say what to do after that.
And this is how I reset it every day:
Push switch to off. Push switch to auto. Listen for relay click. push diagnostic button 5 times until I get to instant salinity. When it gets close to 3500 I push the switch to superchlorinate and then back to auto. It stabilizes around 3400.
The salinity values in the morning can be anywhere from 900 - 2100
If anyone can help, I would greatly appreciate it!
I checked repeatedly and many ways and at different places and my salt level is actually about 3500. I have to go out every day and manually reset the box so the lights will go off and it will get good readings and produce chlorine.
Some time over night the display comes to a ridiculous level (like 900) and the lights come on.
I replaced the t-cell, no change. ($$$!)
I replaced the whole board last week. ($$$!) It worked that day, but the next morning the lights were on.
I just called Hayward/Goldline and they said all is well! I said, "Why do I have to do this every day?" "I don't know." Suggested calling tomorrow before I reset it.
On this forum I have noticed other people had the same problem, but few return to say the fix, other than those who replaced the thermistor. I replaced the whole board and I still have trouble!
I also looked at the flow switch, and it has some muddy brown stuff on it and in the pvc pipe, and it comes off when rubbed. I don't know what that is. Also, my cya level was 30 and yesterday I added a gallon to raise it, but I doubt these have anything to do with it.
Does any one else have any ideas? I can call Hayward again tomorrow but I have a feeling they will just have me do the manual reset that I have been doing every day!
This is what the diagnostics say today after the daily reset:
3500 salinity
87 temp
25.5 volts
6.15 amps
90 %output
3500 instant salinity
al-0 swimpure
1.58 software
t-15 cell
I didn't record the "crazy" values today before the reset, but I will do that tomorrow.
I found a great trouble shooting document:
http://www.nuccibros.com/sec_0934drRb_d ... -Guide.pdf
But I don't find it helpful since I have already replaced the board and the t-cell. It doesn't say what to do after that.
And this is how I reset it every day:
Push switch to off. Push switch to auto. Listen for relay click. push diagnostic button 5 times until I get to instant salinity. When it gets close to 3500 I push the switch to superchlorinate and then back to auto. It stabilizes around 3400.
The salinity values in the morning can be anywhere from 900 - 2100
If anyone can help, I would greatly appreciate it!