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Thread: Question for the deck guy (ChrisS)

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    Question for the deck guy (ChrisS)

    We just finished our deck (pressure treated) and would like to leave it natural but want to seal it. Can I only seal the top boards instead of doing all the railings, planter boxes (pretty much anything vertical) since the water doesnt really stand like it does on the top of the deck. and... whats a quality product i can use and the best way to apply... and will there be any visible color difference between sealed and non-sealed areas.

    I'll ask another question. What type of sealant can we use on our stamped concrete deck around the pool. The sealant will need a new coating in the next year or so. Something that is not slippery.

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    If you only seal the horizontal surfaces, they will retain a "wet" look, whereas the unsealed surfaces will look markedly dry. Also, the unsealed surfaces will turn gray faster due to UV damage. The best way to apply would be with a stain pad or stain brush. Stain one board at a time and alway leave a "wet" edge so you don't get lap marks. Deck stains are very thin and drip alot, so be aware. As far as a product available to the homeowner, I would use Olympic Maximum clear or Cabots clear. They are both available from Lowe's here in the US. Remember, you want Oil.
    18' round Intex using BBB

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    As far as the concrete, I'll have to do a little research.
    18' round Intex using BBB

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    We are here in canada so I will have to check on those brands... as long as its oil based correct?
    what about applications with a roller? ALso, I have heard that powerwashing is not good for decks as
    it opens the wood grains up... is that true?

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    Riles_J's Avatar
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    I have never had any success with anything Olympic makes. I would lean towards Cabots, if anything. Just keep in mind that clear stains do not offer much in the way of UV protection at all. Unless you are constantly reapplying (at least once a year, but more likely a couple of times a season depending on expsoure) then any wood will grey. That's not to say that it is not natural, just don't expect the color of newly installed lumber to remain. Without UV protection you also increase the likely of your wook splintering and cracking.

    I agree a pad on a pole is the way to go to apply stain. Stain can be applied with a roller, but since it so thin it will splatter all over the place.

    Riles
    16x32 IG vinyl, 19,000 gal, 1.0 hp pump, sand filter, 2 returns, 1 skimmer, diving board, slide

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    Quote Originally Posted by Riles_J
    I have never had any success with anything Olympic makes. I would lean towards Cabots, if anything. Just keep in mind that clear stains do not offer much in the way of UV protection at all. Unless you are constantly reapplying (at least once a year, but more likely a couple of times a season depending on expsoure) then any wood will grey. That's not to say that it is not natural, just don't expect the color of newly installed lumber to remain. Without UV protection you also increase the likely of your wook splintering and cracking.

    I agree a pad on a pole is the way to go to apply stain. Stain can be applied with a roller, but since it so thin it will splatter all over the place.

    Riles
    Good info. 99.9% of the Olympic stuff is junk. The Maximum is actually pretty decent. Yes, a roller will cause a "rooster tail" of stain that will go everywhere.
    18' round Intex using BBB

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    Deck Stains

    CrazyCanuck:

    I used Sikkens (Sico) on my red cedar deck, highly recommended, its an oil based stain, and its the one used by all Log Home Builders. Its expensive, but well worth it. On a pressure treated deck, you have to wait a year, let it grey, then clean with a deck cleaner/bleach. Apply stain with no direct sun, and it will easily last two or more years, with regular wear an tear. Trust me on this, I was sick when I bought this wood ($4K) an then found out the only way I can keep it from greying is to stain it, lost my color, but at least my wood is protected.
    Application can be done in two ways, one person using roller to apply, then someone following up with a brush an back brushing. All oil based stain must be applied with a brush.

    Here is a pic, I used two colors, and worked out my own mix proportions to get the stain color I wanted.

    One word of caution, applying an oil stain over pressure treated, will just cause it to sit on the top. You are correct about pressure washing, a BIG NO NO.

    Rik
    Attached Images Attached Images

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    Re: Deck Stains

    Quote Originally Posted by pooladdict
    CrazyCanuck:


    One word of caution, applying an oil stain over pressure treated, will just cause it to sit on the top. You are correct about pressure washing, a BIG NO NO.

    Rik
    Basically, you have film forming and penetrating stains. Penetrating stains will not sit on top of PT pine.

    Pressure washing is necessary to remove existing finishes/and or damaged wood fibers on PT pine. The graying is actually wood fibers damaged by UV rays. They need to be removed prior to applying a finish. High pressure, on the other hand is a no no. With the right chemicals, wood can be restored with no more than 500-800 psi and no splintering. Although PT pine is lower maintenance, it is not maintenance free. To avoid UV damage, cracking, and splintering, it should be cleaned and a stain/sealer applied. I will attach some pics of decks that were not maintained.
    18' round Intex using BBB

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    I want the gray look so how do I get that and still protect the wood? I used standard p.t decking and post. I so far have let the deck sit not sealed weathering but I am worried about the pool chems causing the wood to be damaged.
    Steve
    Echo Canyon II by Artesian Pools, 13.5 KGal AG Round, 22" Artesian Sand Filter 2 hp Artesian pump
    Med Lab Tech for 12 years in E.TN
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