Yes, it is the algae. You must continually replenish FC. FC is consumed as it is killing algae in your pool.
Green Pool frustration!!! Newby trying to take control:)
- Thread starter KGK
- Start date
My TF Test Kit is not here yet, but why does my test strip indicate that there is a lot of FC, when in fact it seems to be ineffective unless I replenish?
Because test strips are not accurate and your FC is not as high as you think.KGK said:
Or again, the test strip is wrong, and CYA is higher than you think, which means your shock level needs to be higher than you think.
You'd probably be just as successful getting a mouthful of pool water and tasting it to measure FC.
Crazy... I take it that people on this forum don't give pool companies too much credit in their water testing... ha. All be it, since I seem to have to guess until my test kit gets here Thursday, should I continue to put bleach in every few hours until I can have my water tested again tomorrow? I think the algae is consuming it pretty quickly in that I don't have a lot of result yet, and little odor of chlorine in my pool.
The algae is eating it. The sun also takes some as well. You will NOT smell chlorine unless there is something wrong. I forget off the top of my head what it means when you smell chlorine but do remember it is not good. (I am still learning after over a year.)
Keep it up! It can be done!
Kim
Keep it up! It can be done!
Kim
Unless the pool store is using liquid reagents, like the ones in the TF100, I don't trust ANY of the results.
The computers can be the worst. Many use test strips.
If I can't trust their testing, I have even less trust that the recommendations are valid. I assume they are selling whatever they have in stock or too much of.
The computers can be the worst. Many use test strips.
If I can't trust their testing, I have even less trust that the recommendations are valid. I assume they are selling whatever they have in stock or too much of.
After reading the BBB method and playing with the Pool calculator, it all seems so clear...thanks for all the help. However, I wont have my test kit until Friday. I ended up putting 3 gallon jugs of 8.25% in the afternoon, and then again last night before bed to finally get rid of the green, and this morning I have a nice blue color; although it is not clear yet, I think I'm on my way.
I'm concerned about how much bleach I put in not knowing actual numbers aside from what the pool company's test results yesterday. I will have my water tested again this afternoon and post results.
Does bleach increase CYA? I emptied 60% of my pool to get from 125 to 40. I hope that is an accurate number.
Does bleach increase PH? It was 8.2 yesterday. I would like to get it closer to 7.5, or maybe less, and then airiate to lower my TA as it was 190 yesterday.
Thanks again.
I'm concerned about how much bleach I put in not knowing actual numbers aside from what the pool company's test results yesterday. I will have my water tested again this afternoon and post results.
Does bleach increase CYA? I emptied 60% of my pool to get from 125 to 40. I hope that is an accurate number.
Does bleach increase PH? It was 8.2 yesterday. I would like to get it closer to 7.5, or maybe less, and then airiate to lower my TA as it was 190 yesterday.
Thanks again.
KGK said:
Bleach doesn't not increase CYA.
I don't think it increases PH but it does increase Salt, but you don't need to worry about that. You can see how much salt if you use the very bottom of the pool cal where it says Effects of adding chemicals
I wouldn't worry about your TA either, until you've completed the shocking process.
You could attempt the PH adjustment, however we don't really know what your Chlorine levels are so your PH might not be where the tests say it is.
* I'm not a chemical expert.
The reason liquid chlorine/bleach is promoted here is that it is the only form of chlorine that isn't bound to another chemical. Chlorine pucks have to be made with additional chemicals, they are made either with CYA or Calcium. When you use pucks, you are adding either one of the 2 other chemicals. Overtime this leads to a buildup and the exact problem you had, high CYA levels binding up the free chlorine allowing algae to start.
BBB, this website, is about knowing what is in your pool, and knowing exactly how much you need to add to your pool. It's my understanding that leads to lower pool operating costs as well.
Eventually you may grow tired of daily or every other day additions of liquid chlorine to your pool. At that point you have several options. Go back to pucks, understanding what else they add to your pool, and then drain water when those levels get to high. Or you can get some systems that add liquid chlorine to your pool via a timer. Or you can decide to buy a SWG Salt water chlorine generator which turns salt into chlorine. Or you can stick with adding bleach daily, and use those pucks when you go on vacation knowing and calculating how much other chemicals they add to your pool.
Really in a nut shell, once you understand the pool chemistry taught here, you can manage your pool many different ways and choose the one that best fits your lifestyle.
Changing the name of BBB is a topic often discussed, this web site is not about the exclusive use of Borates, Bleach and Baking Soda. I'm glad things are getting clear for you!
The reason liquid chlorine/bleach is promoted here is that it is the only form of chlorine that isn't bound to another chemical. Chlorine pucks have to be made with additional chemicals, they are made either with CYA or Calcium. When you use pucks, you are adding either one of the 2 other chemicals. Overtime this leads to a buildup and the exact problem you had, high CYA levels binding up the free chlorine allowing algae to start.
BBB, this website, is about knowing what is in your pool, and knowing exactly how much you need to add to your pool. It's my understanding that leads to lower pool operating costs as well.
Eventually you may grow tired of daily or every other day additions of liquid chlorine to your pool. At that point you have several options. Go back to pucks, understanding what else they add to your pool, and then drain water when those levels get to high. Or you can get some systems that add liquid chlorine to your pool via a timer. Or you can decide to buy a SWG Salt water chlorine generator which turns salt into chlorine. Or you can stick with adding bleach daily, and use those pucks when you go on vacation knowing and calculating how much other chemicals they add to your pool.
Really in a nut shell, once you understand the pool chemistry taught here, you can manage your pool many different ways and choose the one that best fits your lifestyle.
Changing the name of BBB is a topic often discussed, this web site is not about the exclusive use of Borates, Bleach and Baking Soda. I'm glad things are getting clear for you!
Thank you for the encouragement. Is there any reason why I should continue to guess and put bleach in without knowing actual numbers in an effort to maintain shock level? I guess my pool company test results are better than nothing. I will wait until I take a sample in this afternoon.
KGK said:
Instead of targeting shock level, you could just try to make sure that each time it's tested you have Chlorine in the pool, whatever level the chart tells you. If you stop with the chlorine, you would be opening up the pool to algae continuing/staring to grow. Granted non may grow, or it might not really get bad before Friday when you get your kit and this Friday night when you start shocking your pool proper
My pool is now a solid and pretty blue color (not green) but just as cloudy as it was when it was green. Did I transform the algae into a pretty blue color? When will it start to clear up? Should I be backwashing my filter.? The pressure is good right now so I haven't thought about it. Having my water tested in a couple of hours. I will post the results. Thanks again to everyone.
When you kill the algae it turns grayish and your water can look grayish/blueish but remain cloudy. Your sand filter will take some time to clear up the cloudy (dead algae). You only need to backwash it after it rises 20% of the clean presure observed after last backwash. So if clean filter pressure is 20, backwash at 24.
You can do this to speed up the sand filters ability to filter, but be aware that doing it with DE can cause you to have to backwash very soon, meaning you would want to be home to try it, or you could try it as soon as you get home and then backwash before bed.
pool-school/add_de_to_a_sand_filter
You can do this to speed up the sand filters ability to filter, but be aware that doing it with DE can cause you to have to backwash very soon, meaning you would want to be home to try it, or you could try it as soon as you get home and then backwash before bed.
pool-school/add_de_to_a_sand_filter
Okay, revised numbers from my pool company test of my water today (they use reagents to test and a computer? Not sure how that works.)
FC: 5.45
PH: 7.2
TA: 80
CYA: 20
My pool is still blue but cloudy. I can see the bottom, but is not clear. I don't get my test kit until Friday.
Should I raise to shock level and attempt to raise PH to 7.5, or just wait until Friday? I think I need to continue to add chlorine to make sure I don't go below 5, right?
FC: 5.45
PH: 7.2
TA: 80
CYA: 20
My pool is still blue but cloudy. I can see the bottom, but is not clear. I don't get my test kit until Friday.
Should I raise to shock level and attempt to raise PH to 7.5, or just wait until Friday? I think I need to continue to add chlorine to make sure I don't go below 5, right?
Start the Shock process Immediately. Bring your pool to a shock level of 12 FC Chlorine and keep it there until the pool is clear and you pass the OCLT. Everyday you wait you loose at least two days of algae growth in my experience (if the weather is sunny).
If you are trying to limp along with your existing yellow OTO drop test, look for a good rich yellow-orange color.
If you are trying to limp along with your existing yellow OTO drop test, look for a good rich yellow-orange color.
When the pool is balanced and I have a handle on daily maintenance, i.e. keeping it at the recommended FC compared to CYA with good PH and TA ... when do you know its time to shock the pool, if ever? Once the pool is brought up to shock level, how soon can you swim typically?
When the pool is balanced, you do the shock process anytime you test and see CC values of 1 ppm or more. I don't test for CC everyday. It's about every week or as the water tells me.
In my pool, you can see the clarity difference, pretty quickly. If the water is not sparkly, I likely need to test for CC and shock. If I see algae growing on something or the walls are furry, it needs a shock. If the dog poops in the pool, it needs a shock.
Otherwise, if you are diligent with your FC and you stay above the minimum for your CYA, you may need NOT shock all summer (ever?)
In my pool, you can see the clarity difference, pretty quickly. If the water is not sparkly, I likely need to test for CC and shock. If I see algae growing on something or the walls are furry, it needs a shock. If the dog poops in the pool, it needs a shock.
Otherwise, if you are diligent with your FC and you stay above the minimum for your CYA, you may need NOT shock all summer (ever?)
You can swim any time your FC is at or below shock levels, based on you CYA.
So, If your shock level is 30 ppm, you can swim when the FC is 30 or below.
So, If your shock level is 30 ppm, you can swim when the FC is 30 or below.
Okay... is it possible to leave it at shock level during the day or does the sun burn it off too fast? I am so frustrated with the cloudy pool. Blue, but cloudy. My pool company test results vary so greatly, I don't know if its right. My Cya went from 40 to 20 over night according to the pool company test results. I shocked based on the new numbers but something isn't right. Am I stuck until I get my test kit? Anything I can do in the interim?