First time FAS-DPD tester
- Thread starter Kir
- Start date
What does that mean?Kir said:
Have you followed the shock PROCESS and passed the 3 criteria to stop?
I started the shock process and was just waiting to verify the overnight FC loss. Last nights results:
FC 12 drops x .5 = 6.0
CC 1 drop x .5 = .5
pH = 7.2
TA = 60
CA = 50
This mornings results...
FC 5.5
CC no change...color was very very pale pink and I only added 1 drop to turn the sample clear for a CC result of .5
So has the water been properly shocked? The water appears clear but how do I know if it can get any clearer? The reason I ask is because the previous owners picked an aqua (pale greenish blue) liner. To me the pool always looks like the water is tinted light green because of the liner, but when you stand and look in the pool you can see to the bottom. Should I shock the pool a second time just to be safe? I will have to replace a little bit of water because I depleted some during the back washing.
FC 12 drops x .5 = 6.0
CC 1 drop x .5 = .5
pH = 7.2
TA = 60
CA = 50
This mornings results...
FC 5.5
CC no change...color was very very pale pink and I only added 1 drop to turn the sample clear for a CC result of .5
So has the water been properly shocked? The water appears clear but how do I know if it can get any clearer? The reason I ask is because the previous owners picked an aqua (pale greenish blue) liner. To me the pool always looks like the water is tinted light green because of the liner, but when you stand and look in the pool you can see to the bottom. Should I shock the pool a second time just to be safe? I will have to replace a little bit of water because I depleted some during the back washing.
That depends if you followed the process. It appears that you have passed the CC and the OCLT (although this is usually done at shock level), and your water sounds clear (could you identify heads/tails on a coin in the deep end?)Kir said:
Given this statement, it does not sound like you grasp the concept of the shock PROCESS yet ... there is no "shocking a second time". You are supposed to maintain the shock FC level continuously until all 3 criteria are met.Kir said:
Given the lack of CC and appearing to pass the OCLT, you are likely fine to maintain normal FC levels.
I just tested the water and FC is 14.5
Is that high enough to shock considering I am still waiting to test the CYA level?
Is that high enough to shock considering I am still waiting to test the CYA level?
Oops, forgot about the chlorine/CYA chart! Answered my own question...at an assumed 20-30ppm CYA the FC of 14.5 is slightly above shock target.
On a separate note..I have some light staining on the liner. Will keeping the FC up a bit help to diminish these?
On a separate note..I have some light staining on the liner. Will keeping the FC up a bit help to diminish these?
Pool was successfully shocked a couple days ago. CC was .5 and the overnight FC loss went from 14.5 to 14
So I did a complete test this morning to see if the CYA I added last week registered. Here are the results...
FC 6.5
CC .5
pH 7.3
TA 60
CA 50
CYA 40
So is there anything else I need to do at this point? What about the other two "B"s pool school talks about. basking soda and borax? Do I need to add those or am I good to go at this point?
My last question is moving forward am I basically just testing the water every day for FC and pH to make sure it is safe for swimming and then testing everything on a weekly basis?
So I did a complete test this morning to see if the CYA I added last week registered. Here are the results...
FC 6.5
CC .5
pH 7.3
TA 60
CA 50
CYA 40
So is there anything else I need to do at this point? What about the other two "B"s pool school talks about. basking soda and borax? Do I need to add those or am I good to go at this point?
My last question is moving forward am I basically just testing the water every day for FC and pH to make sure it is safe for swimming and then testing everything on a weekly basis?
If you do not know if you need baking soda (raises TA) or borax (raises pH), then you have more reading and learning to do in Pool School 
Monitor pH and FC daily and check other levels weekly to monthly. There is a sample schedule on pool school.
Monitor pH and FC daily and check other levels weekly to monthly. There is a sample schedule on pool school.
Getting used to the BBB process is a learning process. You are likely to not have ANY support or knowledge consistent with this process in your local stores.
I have found it is hard to get fully up to speed without investing the time time to fully read and understand the Pool School section. The "shock process" needs to be understood that it is not the same as to have "shocked" the pool like the local pool store (LPS) or the packages of "shock" suggest. I used the LPS methods of "shocking the pool" (using bags and pucks) and ended up with a pool that would turn green about 2 months after opening and it would not clear up after tons of time and effort (and bags and pucks).
I learned that pool was "over stabilized" and the chlorine/sanitizer levels required to kill the algae were essentially unattainable.
The BBB method requires you adjust the chlorine levels daily because you are using un-stabilized liquid chlorine. It's this daily maintenance that pool services cannot do cost effectively. So, pool services use stabilized chlorine (pucks and powders) so it will allow them to come once a week. It can work but not as well as the daily BBB method. Local pool stores attempt to teach the consumer how to use the same stabilized methods. LPS and pool service companies also like to sell you lots of product (the only way they make money). Don't aren't doing "free testing" for free. They are doing it to sell product/chemicals.
I have found it is hard to get fully up to speed without investing the time time to fully read and understand the Pool School section. The "shock process" needs to be understood that it is not the same as to have "shocked" the pool like the local pool store (LPS) or the packages of "shock" suggest. I used the LPS methods of "shocking the pool" (using bags and pucks) and ended up with a pool that would turn green about 2 months after opening and it would not clear up after tons of time and effort (and bags and pucks).
I learned that pool was "over stabilized" and the chlorine/sanitizer levels required to kill the algae were essentially unattainable.
The BBB method requires you adjust the chlorine levels daily because you are using un-stabilized liquid chlorine. It's this daily maintenance that pool services cannot do cost effectively. So, pool services use stabilized chlorine (pucks and powders) so it will allow them to come once a week. It can work but not as well as the daily BBB method. Local pool stores attempt to teach the consumer how to use the same stabilized methods. LPS and pool service companies also like to sell you lots of product (the only way they make money). Don't aren't doing "free testing" for free. They are doing it to sell product/chemicals.
So can someone confirm for me then that if I am using the BBB method I should not be using any chlorine pucks in my automatic chlorine feeder? I know the pucks can add CYA to the water but pool school is not clear on whether I should be using them in conjunction with the bleach. Thanks
Once you understand what the tablets do ... you can use them if you want those effects.
Your CYA is in the sweet spot, so using the tablets would not be a good idea.
Your CYA is in the sweet spot, so using the tablets would not be a good idea.
You can use both at the same time but if you are using the BBB/Pool School method, the pucks will make it harder to control the CYA (and higher shock levels as a result of higher CYA levels).
If your CYA is in the desired range (~40-60?) I would not use pucks or powder for anything. Liquid ONLY. If your CYA is below 40 and you are going on vacation, float some pucks or use the chlorinator.
Otherwise, empty the chlorinator and leave it for vacation use only.
If your CYA is in the desired range (~40-60?) I would not use pucks or powder for anything. Liquid ONLY. If your CYA is below 40 and you are going on vacation, float some pucks or use the chlorinator.
Otherwise, empty the chlorinator and leave it for vacation use only.