Liquidator Questions

[chrisexv6]

So the bleach level shouldnt be above the bottom of the white tube? I think I remember reading that, just didnt have the manual handy.

I was actually able to park my LQ in my shed so its completely protected from heat and sun........about 8' away from my equipment, and about 4' higher. I get the gravity flow but I sometimes worry the pressure from the filter isnt enough to go up the 4'. Thats why I think my flow maxes out around 4 (even with the check valves not in line). But 4 seems to be plenty, at least for now. And like I said I hope the conversion to 12.5% makes it even better.

Will mark up my LQ when I get home, going to wear gloves just in case.......that yellow bleach layer looks like it might sting a little

-Chris

 

[smuggs]

from the LQ manual online: "The height of the chlorine bed itself should not exceed the joint where the top
of the white drop tube extension meets the bottom the the black drop tube funnel."

 

[chrisexv6]

Isnt that kind of high up? I could swear I also read the chlorine bed should be about 4" high. Could swear the funnel met the tube a lot higher than 4" up!

-Chris

 

[smuggs]

it's probably about a third of the way up, which looks like about 8 gallons to me. at only 4", i don't see how you could get 8 gallons of chlorine in there.

 

[chrisexv6]

Assuming the same as water (which its not, but its a close guess), 1 cu ft of water = 7.5 gallons. Bleach is "heavier", density wise, but again a close enough guess I think.

The base of the LQ is 15"x15", which translates into needing 7.75" of height to make the 15x15 base take up 1 cu ft. So we should be looking at around 8" off the bottom as the max height of the chlorine bed. (and that is just about a 3rd of the way up like you suggested......the height of the 8 gallon LQ being 29"). This also might explain why my FC dropped, Ive been aiming for 4" off the bottom, not 8. So technically I might be keeping it so low Im seeing the *low end* of the LQ capacity for outputting CL. Good to know though.

This *almost* makes sense, if what I read was saying 4" chlorine bed I wonder if they were referring to the FOUR gallon model instead of the 8.

-Chris

 

[revstriker]

If you get the chlorine level to the highest point, and you want to mark it on the outside, you can run your finger down the outside of the LQ while looking at it from the inside. You should be able to see exactly where the line is, and be able to mark it on the outside. I see no reason why you would have to put your hand into the water inside the LQ.

 

[revstriker]

Even with the liquidator I am adding 2 96oz jugs every 3 days or so depending on swimmers and weather. I was hoping to automate that process through the use of the liquidator.

However, if you did not have the LQ, you would be (should be) out there every day adding bleach, so I still think you are getting a benefit from the LQ, just perhaps, not as big a benefit as you thought.

 

[joenj]

I was also getting little bubbles in the flow meter, which were caused from air leaking in from the meter's fittings. Teflon paste corrected that.

What is "Teflon paste"? Did you mean Teflon tape?
TIA
Mike

Telflon paste can be found in the plumbing section of HD or Lowes. You apply it with a brush, part of the cap, to the threads. I like it better than the tape. A little messy, but seals better, IMHO.

 

[revstriker]

Telflon paste can be found in the plumbing section of HD or Lowes. You apply it with a brush, part of the cap, to the threads. I like it better than the tape. A little messy, but seals better, IMHO.

Is this the same thing as pipe dope?

 

[joenj]

The can's label is, "Pipe joint compound with teflon. For all plastic and metal pipe."

Not sure if pipe dope is a little thicker than this stuff. But I would try it if that is what you have.

 

[chrisexv6]

Just an FYI (and I will report back once its done):

I was able to get the materials needed to remove the saddle valve on the inlet side of the LQ. Basically a 1.5"x1"x1.5" tee, and a 1" to .5" threaded bushing, along with a .5" to .25" barb tube fitting. Put the 1.5" tee inline with the return plumbing and put the barb fitting and bushing into the 1" side of the tee, then push the LQ tubing onto the barb.

Honestly I dont know if it will help flow any (theoretically it might), but it should help with the saddle valve being a leak point for some. And I think it would look at lot cleaner..........this is nothing against LQ, obviously its easier to market a product that doesnt require PCV plumbing. I just figured it was cheap enough to give it a shot.

I wimped out and didnt buy a new flow valve, since Im not having flow issues I didnt think I needed to spend the 8 bux. Maybe eventually Ill break down and do so anyway.

-Chris