I use the coarse crystal solar salt from Home Depot or Lowes. Look for the solid blue bag -- no additives, just 99.6% salt. You can search this site (go to the bottom left of this page) regarding the salt, there are a number of conversations about it. Dump the bags in the pool and give them a push with brush every now and then. Pointing a return towards them will speed it up a bit -- it doesn't take too long to dissolve, but you might let it circulate over night before turning on the SWG.
Update on DIY build in TN (More Pics/Questions)
- Thread starter janthony
- Start date
Question. What should I start adding to water now if I plan to start up pump for first time this weekend? Should I go ahead and start adding salt or do I need to wait for pump to help mix? Should go ahead with the cya since I know i am at 0 and it takes a while to register on test? I am hoping someone can give me the proper steps to follow with initial start. Maybe I get the pool really clean first before adding anything? Water is clear but I do have a little construction sediment/sand/sawdust type stuff on bottom. I'll plumb in swg and anode tonight and polish off return plumbing by Friday. Is there a step by step process on the forum somewhere for new pool startups?
I guess that was more than one question huh?
I guess that was more than one question huh?
I would not worry about getting it clean...it will be hard without the pumps running. If you have the fine grind pool salt, go ahead and add it...all around the pool. Other salt is ok, but stay out of the pool so you won't step on it and scratch the print on the liner. Cya can be soaking in a sock as well. You might need to go ahead and add some bleach to keep the nasties away until you have enough CYA and salt dissolved in the water as the temps are rising in both the water and air. You will have to distribute that around the pool as well. (Some brushing here may be in order!!)
There is not much that it will hurt to add, as long as it is well distributed (except maybe Mur. Acid - stay away from that until the pump is going...), and you do things one at a time. Just make sure you shoot for about 80% levels and sneak up on the final dosing. Don't add the additional until you are SURE that all chems are totally incorporated in the water. You don't want to have to drain the pool halfway because you jump the gun on adding everything or have a miscalculation.
Only things I would add at this point BTW are salt and CYA, maybe some sodium bicarb (look for a 50lb bag at the local farmer's co-op, it's a cattle feed supplement), and some bleach to get you started.
Oh, and start your pump on RECIRCULATE on the filter, get it running, then BACKWASH. That "new" sand will blow Crud all in the pool if you don't backwash first.
There is not much that it will hurt to add, as long as it is well distributed (except maybe Mur. Acid - stay away from that until the pump is going...), and you do things one at a time. Just make sure you shoot for about 80% levels and sneak up on the final dosing. Don't add the additional until you are SURE that all chems are totally incorporated in the water. You don't want to have to drain the pool halfway because you jump the gun on adding everything or have a miscalculation.
Only things I would add at this point BTW are salt and CYA, maybe some sodium bicarb (look for a 50lb bag at the local farmer's co-op, it's a cattle feed supplement), and some bleach to get you started.
Oh, and start your pump on RECIRCULATE on the filter, get it running, then BACKWASH. That "new" sand will blow Crud all in the pool if you don't backwash first.
Plumbing done. Pump running. No leaks so far....I assume the frigid water makes the cya and salt dissolve slower. Spent two hours slowly adding cya to skimmers to keep from clogging up filter baskets... Brushed salt around for couple of hours also, just figured it wasn't good for liner to stay in one spot long undissolved.
Note to self on next pool:
Don't plumb floor drain in with backwash line! You should have seen my face when dirty water started gurgling out of the floor.
Note to self on next pool:
Don't plumb floor drain in with backwash line! You should have seen my face when dirty water started gurgling out of the floor.
I like the concrete floor and the look but would be scared about ever having to get to one of those pipes in case they broke/leaked. My PB told me a horror story about a 90 degree elbow destroying itself within two days, nobodies fault just a defective part, and they had to dig up the deck and everything to get to it.
Dont scare me like that. Lol. I know it was a trade off to put the plumbing indoors, but other than concrete, i dont know what else i would have done with the floor. If i ever do need to get to it, ill just cut the floor and re-pour after repairs.
I think you made the right choice. It looks great and a concrete saw and patch kit aren't that expensive.
- May 12, 2012
- 191
- Pool Size
- 31000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Beautiful! Hope you haven't been fighting pollen as I have a few miles southesast of you.
- May 12, 2012
- 191
- Pool Size
- 31000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
New pool hills of TN. I haven't added photos recently. Still landscaping...and probably will be in the fall. Pool budget blown LOL! When weather is good, will add some photos. Love the color changing intelibrite lights. ET system giving me a little headache but almost have a handle on that. Pool temp got to upper 60's but this weekend will change tat, oh well. You have done a great job!
janthony said:
I do have a construction thread with pics, just not many pool pics yet. This week has been the week of rain, so im waiting to get the collar poured and am hopeful next weeks turns into better weather.
diy-under-construction-in-md-updated-4-29-w-pics-t57808.html
