D.E. Filter Problem

[jimdee1]

I do keep a close eye on the water in my pool. In looking over my test results since 2007, there are only six times I had a reading below 7.0 (one 6.8 and five 6.9). Three of those were the first reading of the year at pool opening. The ph is kept 7.2 - 7.6 almost all the time. I don't see my water possibly being the source of this rusting problem. Also, there is no air in the filter system.

My next step will be to contact Hayward, In The Swim Pool Supplies and Amazon to see if they will help me. If not, I'll go to the next step.

 

[PAGirl]

Do you have anything the shows when you actually RECEIVED Mthempump. They say ordered it a year and two days ago from the contact date, but you,probably actually received at least 3 days from the order date.......

 

[CraigMW]

Where is the rusting toward the bottom of the filter coming from? It looks like there may be some sort of leak and this appears to be causing something to rust and stain the concrete. Perhaps this might be causing water levels to drop inside the filter, leading to oxidation?

 

[CraigMW]

Also, I recall you mentioned an in-line chlorinator being fed tri-chlor pucks. Where in the plumbing is this chlorinator with respect to the filter? Chlorides can wreak havoc on 300 series SS.

 

[jimdee1]

I appreciate the responses. Thank you.
After I closed the pool for the winter and did the normal end of year winterizing (including removing and rinsing off the filter's flex tube assembly) I left the drain plug untightened so that any water left in the filter could drain out. This is when the rust stains first appeared on the concrete, not during the year. There has been no evidence of any leaking or air in the system throughout the summer. The chlorine feeder is located after the filter, by about 6 ft. of pipe.
I need to say that Hayward has agreed to send me a new flex tube assembly that will contain new steel parts, for which I thank them. The dealer, In The Swim Pool Supplies, again refused to help me.
Now I need to figure out how to keep the new parts from rusting in the future. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Should I convert to salt water? Is salt easier on stainless steel than chlorine?

 

[UnderWaterVanya]

Now I need to figure out how to keep the new parts from rusting in the future. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Should I convert to salt water? Is salt easier on stainless steel than chlorine?

Common misconception - salt pools are chlorine pools. The salt is used to create chlorine by electrical process that essentially recycles the chlorine atoms into active forms of chlorine. The level of chlorine needed to keep the pool trouble free is slightly lower than a pool fed by bleach or other sources.

My understanding is that salt based pools are more corrosive not less.



- Sent using Tapatalk

 

[Mike_W]

I think you are right about the steel not being marine grade (316) stainless. From the looks of the tube sheet screws & nuts, I'm not sure they're even stainless!.

Next time you have a chance see if a magnet will stick to them. 302, 304 and 316 stainless are all Austenitic class SS and non-magnetic. If they were not SS and you replaced the hardware with good bolts, you may not have any more issues.
Mike

 

[Mike_W]

Should I convert to salt water? Is salt easier on stainless steel than chlorine?

The salt level in a pool using a Salt Water Chlorine Generator is typically less the 5000 ppm (nominally closer to 3500 ppm). Sea water is around 35,000 ppm. "Marine Grade" hardware should be ok at the level in a SWG pool.
Mike

 

[jimdee1]

Thank you to all who helped me in this forum with the good advice and comments. I appreciate it very much and will try to help someone else in the future if I can. Sincerely, Jim.