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Thread: Beginner with a new pool Help

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    Beginner with a new pool Help

    The PB is plastering and filling pool this week and soon it will be my responsibility.
    Pool has a Pentair 320 Chlorinator which takes 3" "Trichlor" tablets.
    I have seen a number of quantities/prices on 3" tablets.
    Are the 3" tablets sold at Sam's/Walmart acceptable for this?
    PB told me to take water sample to local Pool Supply store which I will do but having had a pool at a previous house about 20 years ago I am somewhat leary of Pool Stores over selling.
    Sorry to be asking what are probably dumb questions but PB is not going to be any help
    22,000 IG Gunite/Diamond Brite Pool
    Approximately 18 X 36 Free Form Pool
    Hayward Sand Filter
    2hp Hayward Pump
    Waterfall/slide

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    Really you probably don't need to be using the tablets. You should spend some time reading through The Stickies. I use Liquid Shock, it is essentially bleach, the pucks have other things in them that creates a need for yet more things. Eliminate the pool store conspiracy before it happens and don't use that thing.
    steve

    Above Ground / 18' Round / Vinyl Liner / Sand Filter / 100K Gas Heater / Salt Added / No Nature2

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    Get a good test kit like the TF100 or Taylor 2006, and take your pool into your own hands!! You sound ready!!

    DOn't get pool stored! We can help you through almost ANYTHING!!!


    8000 gallon 20' x 48" round vinyl frame pool, 12" sand filter (don't have the specs on the pump), TF100 test kit
    Handy Links: PoolMath, TF-100 Test Kit, Pool School, CYA-Chlorine Chart
    "Shock" is a process, not a product!

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    Mod Squad JohnT's Avatar
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    Your questions are exactly what you should be asking. The Walmart pucks contain copper, which you probably don't want. The best thing you can do is invest in a good test kit. TFTestKits which is sold by a member here or the Taylor K2006.
    TFP Moderator
    20K Gallon 20X36 Vinyl Inground
    Hayward S244T Sand Filter with 1HP Whisperflo Pump. Liquidator C-201 and Solar Heat

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    Remember that PBs specialize in BUILDING pools, not balancing and maintaining the water in them. Many of the people in this forum have learned the HARD way about pool water chemistry because they listened to their builders or the pool store and sawthe light after they had problems that were draining their wallet! YOU don't have to. Get a GOOD testkit and start taking care of your own water. We are here to help you with this so you are not alone. Trichlor is actually a good choice to use for a short time with new plaster because it is acidic and will help with the initial acid demand that all new plaster has but you want to monitor the CYA (cyanuric acid, stabilizer) level and stop using the tabs once the CYA reaches about 50 ppm. How fast this will happen depends on several factors but if you have a cartridge filter it will happen much faster than with a sand or backwashing DE filter. Read the ingredients and look for a tablet that does NOT contain anything but trichlor (trichloro-s-triazinetrione, trichloroisocyanuric acid) and no copper sulfate, clarifiers or other active ingredients. The only exception to this is sodium tetraborate (borax) which is included in some of the 'premium' tablets and actually is a useful additive.
    Take a deep breath, take some time to read the stickies (see the link in my signature) and post ANY questions you might have.
    Welcome to our corner of the net!

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    JasonLion's Avatar
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    Get a good test kit, there is no better investment in your pool that you can make. I recommend the TF Test Kit, see the link in my signature. The Taylor K-2006 is also good.

    Almost any brand of the tablets are good as long as they are not double or triple acting and don't contain copper. Most of them are fine, just a few have copper added which can cause problems. Tablets are a great way to startup a new plaster pool but can cause problems in the long run. Do some reading, particularly in the stickies section of this site and find out about your alternatives while using trichlor tablets for the first couple of weeks.
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
    Creator of PoolMath and Pool Calculator. Other handy links: Support this site, TF Test Kits, Pool School

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    Butterfly's Avatar
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    [Edit: jjparrish: Moved to keep in same thread for history]


    Quote Originally Posted by chc4au
    Have run first set of chemicals and test results are as follows:
    FC 2.5
    CC 0
    PH 7.7
    Alk 80
    Calcium 120
    cya 30

    Using tri chlor tablets so not planning on increasing cya withh addition of chemicals.
    plan to add acid to reduce ph then shock.
    Will add calcium over next few days to bring level up.
    Anything else?

    Appreciate your help in advance
    TFP Moderator TF100 Test Kit TF100 TestKit YouTube Channel PoolMath
    You're done SLAMing when:
    1)You lose 1ppm or less FC overnight, & 2)You have .5ppm CC's or less, & 3)your water is clear.

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    JasonLion's Avatar
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    With fresh plaster the PH, TA, and CH levels will come up on their own for several weeks. You need to monitor the PH fairly closely, try to keep it from ever going over 7.8 if you can. 8.0 isn't too bad, but higher than that and you risk calcium scaling. By aiming for 7.8 as the upper limit you should be safe.

    Because the TA and CH levels will be rising as the plaster cures, you shouldn't adjust them for at least three weeks. By then they will probably be at reasonable levels on their own.
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
    Creator of PoolMath and Pool Calculator. Other handy links: Support this site, TF Test Kits, Pool School

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    Quote Originally Posted by The Mermaid Queen
    !

    We can help you through almost ANYTHING!!!
    ALMOST?!?!?! I have yet to find ANYTHING the pros on here can not handle!!!
    27' Round AG, 17,200 gallons, sand filter

  10. Back To Top    #10
    JasonLion's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Poolidiot
    ALMOST?!?!?! I have yet to find ANYTHING the pros on here can not handle!!!
    We had a problem we couldn't solve a few months ago, an ORP sensor that went down as FC when up even through the sensor otherwise works. I don't think anyone has a good solution for that problem. The best I have found is a guess at what the chemistry might be, but it doesn't suggest a solution. I wish there was a solution because I am having that problem with my ORP sensor.
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
    Creator of PoolMath and Pool Calculator. Other handy links: Support this site, TF Test Kits, Pool School

  11. Back To Top    #11

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    ohhhhhhh that just burst my bubble I must have missed that topic
    27' Round AG, 17,200 gallons, sand filter

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