If you can, you may want to point your returns to the surface for aeration. This will allow you to raise your pH without raising your TA.
low ph high alk no chlorine and 2nd yr of having to drain
- Thread starter kkuster
- Start date
Excellent !!! that is exactly what I needed the facts and only the facts!! I didn't take it as rude at all. Thanks for all the help!
Hello- I'm still following the 7 step plan to a clear pool. But need to double check on something that has come up and confused me once again on the water testing and I really don't want to go into any pool store and I've been stongly advised to stay out 
I've been testing my chlorine level the past days with the Taylor kit and both my FC and TC were reading a dark pink that I considered to be above the 5-10 so I thought I was keeping my chlorine at 15. My PH was at about 6.8 so I added the borax amount per the pool calculator this morning around 8:30.
I thought I should test my CYA (stabalizer?) to make sure it wasn't back to zero. I only have test strips for that, so when I did the strip my chlorine showed zero.
So, I'm obviously reading something wrong. The water I would say is just cloudy now. I can see the bottom of the shallow but not the deep end.
I plan on cleaning the filters as I'm sure they are pretty nasty and then adding more chlorine? I am going with the straight bleach this time if that sounds ok with you guys.
I've been testing my chlorine level the past days with the Taylor kit and both my FC and TC were reading a dark pink that I considered to be above the 5-10 so I thought I was keeping my chlorine at 15. My PH was at about 6.8 so I added the borax amount per the pool calculator this morning around 8:30.
I thought I should test my CYA (stabalizer?) to make sure it wasn't back to zero. I only have test strips for that, so when I did the strip my chlorine showed zero.
So, I'm obviously reading something wrong. The water I would say is just cloudy now. I can see the bottom of the shallow but not the deep end.
I plan on cleaning the filters as I'm sure they are pretty nasty and then adding more chlorine? I am going with the straight bleach this time if that sounds ok with you guys.
Test Strips are infamous for being terribly innaccurate. I'd say to get another test at the pool store (don't buy anything) or, best of all, get your own individual test that will test for CYA
BTW, your CYA will remain constant...if it was in there a week ago, it's still there.
BTW, your CYA will remain constant...if it was in there a week ago, it's still there.
You really need a good test kit. You can't depend on either pool stores or test strips.
here are the latest #'s I am just going to keep as is making sure the chlorine is at 15 and PH at 7.2 until the water clears. Unless you guys say different. Thanks for all the help :-D
FC 5+
TC 5+
PH 7.2
TA 190
Calcium Hardness 200
CYA 60
TDS 1700
Phosphates 300
FC 5+
TC 5+
PH 7.2
TA 190
Calcium Hardness 200
CYA 60
TDS 1700
Phosphates 300
With CYA at 60 you need to get FC up to around 18 to kill off algae. Without better test numbers than 5+ it is impossible to tell if you are really getting up to 18.
You could try dilution, mix one part of pool water with two parts of distilled water and test that, then multiply the resulting reading by three. But I strongly recommend getting a FAS-DPD chlorine test, available various places including TF Test Kits, which is much much better at measuring high FC levels.
You could try dilution, mix one part of pool water with two parts of distilled water and test that, then multiply the resulting reading by three. But I strongly recommend getting a FAS-DPD chlorine test, available various places including TF Test Kits, which is much much better at measuring high FC levels.
I've ordered my TF test kit so I can verify where exactly my chlorine level is. The taylor kit I am using the highest range is 5-10 and I think the color is darker than that but don't know if I'm at 16 or 26
I guess now I'm wondering what an average time is to turn the cloudy water around. I know it all varies but I've had my chlorine level running pretty high for almost a week now. I know I don't have alot of patients so feel free to tell me to chill. Is there such a thing as to much chlorine when your trying to clear up the water?
I guess now I'm wondering what an average time is to turn the cloudy water around. I know it all varies but I've had my chlorine level running pretty high for almost a week now. I know I don't have alot of patients so feel free to tell me to chill. Is there such a thing as to much chlorine when your trying to clear up the water?
If the algae is all dead it can take the filter up to a week to clean up the water. There is a way to tell if the algae is all dead or not but it requires the new test kit. When you have the FAS-DPD test kit, measure the FC level in the late evening and again first thing in the morning, if the level remains constant overnight you have killed all the algae.
I just got my TF test kit and can only say WOW those strips and pool store tests are way off.
My FC is 1.5
My CC is 6
so, no wonder it is taking so long to clear up. I'm not anywhere close to the 15-18 for my chlorine like I thought I was.
OK just a couple questions and I think I'm on my way. Which chlorine reading should I be looking for the 15-18 ? FC,CC or TC?
I have an auto pool cover and it's raining today so I've kept the pool closed. Can I add chlorine and still keep the cover closed or would it be best to wait til tomorrow when it can be open?
Thanks again for all your help... I'm slow but learning ALOT!!!
My FC is 1.5
My CC is 6
so, no wonder it is taking so long to clear up. I'm not anywhere close to the 15-18 for my chlorine like I thought I was.
OK just a couple questions and I think I'm on my way. Which chlorine reading should I be looking for the 15-18 ? FC,CC or TC?
I have an auto pool cover and it's raining today so I've kept the pool closed. Can I add chlorine and still keep the cover closed or would it be best to wait til tomorrow when it can be open?
Thanks again for all your help... I'm slow but learning ALOT!!!
K,
I'm just a little concerned about those test results.
What I'd like to see you do before you add anything is double-check that test with the chlorine test that's in the blue plastic box within your new kit. It's really simple and will take just a minute or two and is probably almost identical to the old test you've been using.
Report back your results on that test and we'll all help you get going from there.
(I suspect you may have more chlorine than you think....I'm just not sure)
I'm just a little concerned about those test results.
What I'd like to see you do before you add anything is double-check that test with the chlorine test that's in the blue plastic box within your new kit. It's really simple and will take just a minute or two and is probably almost identical to the old test you've been using.
Report back your results on that test and we'll all help you get going from there.
(I suspect you may have more chlorine than you think....I'm just not sure)
I second Duraliegh. I suspect that when you use the chlorine test in the small blue box it will turn orange to brown and not stay yellow. Please so so and report back to us.
sorry for not getting back sooner but I just tested and the chlorine reads 1-2 range and real light yellow and PH 6.8. good news is I can see the bottom filter and well enough to vaccume.
K,
Okay, that's good news. Let's get that pool cleared up.
Put in 8 gallons of 6% clorox...one right after another in thru the skimmer, pump running. That'll bring your FC up to around 20ppm and really start to clean your pool.
Please put it in this evening after the sun is off your pool or tomorrow evening if you can't get to it tonight. This is important, look at the clorox bottle and make sure you get in 8 gallons...not 8 jugs. I think they're 96oz and 142oz for the small and large. be very accurate with the 8 gallon dosage.
Just before you go to bed, test the FC again (with the powder and the drops) and, for example, if it tests 14ppm, add 6 more ppm to bring it back up to 20ppm again. Let us know if you need help calculatinging that.
Tomorrow AM, please do the same thing...test and bring it right back up to 20ppm.
Repeat this exact process tomorrow night. What you're doing is holding your FC level at 20ppm which will really kill the algae. In a day or so you'll notice the consumption of the Cl will drop right off and you'll be using very little to bringit back to 20.
All the time you're doing this, keep an eye on your filter pressure ..if it goes up by more than about 30%...backwash.
Run your pump 24/7
As soon as you're near Lowe's /HD/ pool store etc. Pick up your stabilizer. (CYA). Get about 8-10 lbs for now. As soon as that's in your possession, post back and we'll get that started.
Ask lot's of questions and stay in touch and your pool will be clear before you know it.
Okay, that's good news. Let's get that pool cleared up.
Put in 8 gallons of 6% clorox...one right after another in thru the skimmer, pump running. That'll bring your FC up to around 20ppm and really start to clean your pool.
Please put it in this evening after the sun is off your pool or tomorrow evening if you can't get to it tonight. This is important, look at the clorox bottle and make sure you get in 8 gallons...not 8 jugs. I think they're 96oz and 142oz for the small and large. be very accurate with the 8 gallon dosage.
Just before you go to bed, test the FC again (with the powder and the drops) and, for example, if it tests 14ppm, add 6 more ppm to bring it back up to 20ppm again. Let us know if you need help calculatinging that.
Tomorrow AM, please do the same thing...test and bring it right back up to 20ppm.
Repeat this exact process tomorrow night. What you're doing is holding your FC level at 20ppm which will really kill the algae. In a day or so you'll notice the consumption of the Cl will drop right off and you'll be using very little to bringit back to 20.
All the time you're doing this, keep an eye on your filter pressure ..if it goes up by more than about 30%...backwash.
Run your pump 24/7
As soon as you're near Lowe's /HD/ pool store etc. Pick up your stabilizer. (CYA). Get about 8-10 lbs for now. As soon as that's in your possession, post back and we'll get that started.
Ask lot's of questions and stay in touch and your pool will be clear before you know it.
Will do.... I have cartridge filter so don't backwash is this the same as cleaning the filters?
when testing with the powder I notice the water turns clear after adding a drop but then goes back to pink. Do I keep adding drops until it doesn't turn back to pink? Thanks
Once the water turns clear, that's the endpoint of the test....stop there.
It does turn back to pink after awhile and, perhaps, that would be a good modification to the test instructions......something to consider.
It does turn back to pink after awhile and, perhaps, that would be a good modification to the test instructions......something to consider.
sorry for not getting back sooner but it has been raining like crazy here - The pool is looking great - I would say I'm 98% there. The water just has a small haze look to it.. but clear you can see the bottom and everything.
The taylor drop test shows the chlorine at the .5-1 level and PH still at 6.8
The TFP test shows the following FC 1 CC7
I didn't do anymore tests figuring I would wait to hear back from you guys. I've come this close and don't want to go screwing it up now
The taylor drop test shows the chlorine at the .5-1 level and PH still at 6.8
The TFP test shows the following FC 1 CC7
I didn't do anymore tests figuring I would wait to hear back from you guys. I've come this close and don't want to go screwing it up now