CH over 700

[pcmacd]

While I have a 'technical' background, I've been giving the old hole in the ground a minimum amount of attention.

The hundreds of bucks spent on phosphate chemicals led me on a search for a higher degree of enlightenment. Sheesh. Should have paid for lap dances.

Here we are! Love this place!

I'm in the People's Republik of Southern Kalifornia. Our tap water varies enormously from day to day, as it comes from a) groundwater wells, b) the Santa Ana River, c) the Colorado River, and d) insanely different sources from north of the Tehachapi Range.

AND, the fools that bee are now using ozone in lieu of chlorination on the water. Don't even try drinking it.

I've an Anthony gunnite IGP topped with fiberglass. The glass top is Heaven Sent, as the original surface was a serious PITA to deal with, in a water balance sense.

I've been going to change out the water for several years (did it last just before Angry Woman left, so she could split the ticket!), but instead have been coasting by.

Just bought my super wazoo test kit, the TFP-1000 or WTW-evah it is called.

TC is at 9.5 (no wonder I have no more algae problems! Even the black stuff left the tile cracks! Yes! AMAZING!!!)

PH around 7.2 --> 7.3 (been using some tabs over the winter with conditioner in them; haven't checked CYA yet.)

On THAT note, the included CYA instructions are truly ambiguous. To the "bottom of the label"; I really don't see a label. I've looked at the "one page instructions" and they are not lots clearer. I'd wager the author knew what he meant! (don't they / we / I / always know what we mean?)

The Taylor cylinder is labeled "100 ppm" at the bottom, and "20 ppm" at the top. I don't doubt that this has been discussed ad nauseum here, but, I've just spent lots of time trying to get a grip here.

And I still don't have one. (Don't get me wrong! The kit is awesome.)

At any rate, the CH seems to be a wee bit on the insane side.

Comments, please?

-- CYA test procedure

-- CH Level

tanks.

pc

 

[BoDarville]

pcmacd:

Welcome to the forum

This thread http://www.troublefreepool.com/extended-test-kit-directions-t25081.html goes into more detail on testing instructions that are applicable to the TF-100, the Taylor K-2006, and the Leslie's Chlorine FAS-DPD Service Test Kit. Also contains several pointers.

You need to get a handle on your CYA results to determine the appropriate maintenance FC level.

TC is made up of FC and CC: FC+CC=TC. A TC of 9.5 sounds high but, for example, if that consists of an FC of 7.5 and a CC of 2, you would still need to shock. So, it's best to test for both FC and CC.

As for your high CH, try testing your fill water to get an idea of your starting point. Agree that 700 is high, especially for fiberglass.

 

[JasonLion]

CH levels up to about 1200 can be managed if you are methodical, but that is only worth doing if your fill water CH level is fairly high (over 100). With high fill water CH levels, high levels in the pool are unavoidable. While with low fill water CH levels it is more efficient to replace water to get CH down right away.

If you are trying to manage high CH levels, you need to lower PH and TA to compensate for the high CH. If PH TA and CH all get high at the same time you will have calcium scaling.