Sanchz, sorry I have been long in responding...
I think that is close to 12% sodium hypochlorite, so if you are using pool calculator make sure to put in 12% and don't forget the volume units are in oz, so 1 liter =33.8 ounces. I would not add so much (I am refering to the six gallons which raised your FC level to 75 ppm) at one time in the future.Sanchz said:The label said 90 (grams) Cl per liter of product, so I'm not sure about it's concentration. But I've seen similar pools been given the same treatment with almost no algae in them.
Possible, but I really hope you can find a source for the proper test kit.Sanchz said:Unfortunately, yes; but for all the winter months (june-september) and up until a month ago I had been using liquid chlorine plus trichlor tabs (and water got replaced when vacuuming); a month ago I actually suspected that the CYA levels were too low since chlorine level fell quickly after a sunny day.
In my experience CYA has been the least accurate of all the strip tests...so as I have mentioned, they may steer you wrong.Sanchz said:Plus, I had been using these:
http://www.aquachem.com/mp/v/index.jsp? ... mt=default
Which, since I got them, read CYA levels at 50 ppm or less.
I would definitely recommend going liquid only (or a swcg). It gives you independant control of both your FC level and your CYA level.Sanchz said:So, do you suggest going liquid only? The only real problem is that it's a pain to handle, but I know the alternatve is just potential problems.
Any chance you filter is channeled? See this link: http://www.troublefreepool.com/my-sand-is-channeled-how-to-fix-it-t7626.htmlSanchz said:For about one week of filtering, WITH DE added, the pressure isn't yet at the point where a backwash is needed.