Chlorine turns water green for a few minutes

ShawnF

0
Aug 19, 2011
2
Lexington, SC
Regardless of my test results, whenever I add chlorine whether it be bleach or proper pool shock bags my water turns green in the area before it becomes clear again. I've had the local store test for metals and they come up nil. Any insight or suggestions? I don't think it's harmful but it's something that I believe started weeks after I started using No Mor Problems by United Chemical (I no longer use it).

Thanks,
Shawn
 
Shawn,

This Spring and last Spring, I had a similar issue. My pool turned green within 30 minutes of a high chlorine dose (14ppm) and stayed that way for a few days turning back to clear only after the FC level returned to about 4-5ppm (CYA 50). My own metals test for iron and copper were zero also, At this point Taylor Technologies is stumped by my situation. I have forwarded them this link to your post.

I have never used ANY additive of ANY type in my pool.

My best guess is it's being caused by the same things that creates those crop circles!! :shock: :shock: :shock:
 
You know my spa does this also. My spa is Bromine. When I add chlorine it turns yellow or green for a few minutes then clears up. I would think it has something to do with conversion of the bromine bank to bromine. Sounds like your pool has bromine in it.
 
The United Chemical "No Mor Problems" is made for bromide and chlorine, two diffferent products. I'm wondering if the bottle they sent me was for bromide although the instructions indicate chlorine. It tested neg for copper but my trust level at the local store is a bit iffy. I will have them test again then look up what to do for copper. Sorry but I'm a newbie at the pool business, only took 1 year of paying full price before realizing the BBB way is much better for the wallet. Thanks for all your help.
 
Shawn, I have simple advise. Use the BBB method for one year. Do not use any chemicals other than the one recommended by the BBB method.

One pool store pushed hard for me to purchase their “blue bottle”. I asked what was in the bottle. There were no labels on the bottle. The pool store owner told me that the “blue bottle” worked really good but if the manufacturer made any claims they would have to get the product registered by the EPA and charge more money. I decided that day I would never purchase any pool chemical that did not fully disclose the contents. I also decided to never purchase a combination product. You know, “Just add this bottle once a week and it will take care of everything.”

Use bleach for sanitizer.
Use baking soda if you need to raise the TA.
Use borax as a algaestat.
Use CYA to make the Cl last longer.

No need for clarifiers.
No need for phosphate removers.
Little or no need for algaecides.

Do not trust te pool store to test your water. They are in the business to sell chemicals. If you go to the store you will be talked into purchasing a chemical that you do not need. Do your own testing!
 
No Mor Problems® is 41.4% sodium bromide. There are not two versions for different pool types -- what they sell for chlorine pools is sodium bromide (see the PAN pesticide database). It turns your pool into a bromine pool if you use more than just a small amount. Because bromine is not moderated in its strength by Cyanuric Acid (CYA), it kills algae even if your CYA level is high. We do not recommend using it because it increases chlorine demand since bromine still breaks down in sunlight and is not as protected by CYA (since it does not bind to it), it is extra cost, it creates more hazardous disinfection by-products (brominated THMs are more cancerous than the chlorinated THM chloroform), and one can prevent algae growth using chlorine alone if one follows the Chlorine / CYA Chart.

There's an interesting discussion about No Mor Problems® including a response from the manufacturer in this thread.

The greenish color when adding chlorine to water containing bromide is normal in blue vinyl pools because what you really get is more concentrated bromine (until it dilutes) that is yellow/brown and against a blue vinyl background yellow+blue looks green. As noted in this thread, you might also notice a similar effect if you add acid to the pool.

If you didn't use too much of this product and related products such as algicides that treat yellow/mustard algae that are often sodium bromide, then eventually the bromide bank will go away as some bromine outgasses, some gets oxidized to bromate, and some gets backwashed as brominated organics. Water dilution will also lower the level, though slowly. The dosage rate is 5 ounces per 5000 gallons which translates (if the bromide is oxidized) into about 4.8 ppm bromine equivalent to around 2.1 ppm chlorine.
 
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