Intro and pool problems

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It seems really out of whack to me, I've never seen a CC of 15. The test you have is a plastic square with two tubular rectangles at each end, with a color chart on it, correct?

Here's a step-by-step on how to use that kit if so:

Add water to the chlorine side of the block, make water or bottom of water meniscus is even with line near the top of the block.
Add 5 drops R-0001 and agitate
Add 5 drops R-0002 and agitate
Match color of solution to the scale. This is your free chlorine (FC)
Add 5 drops R-0003 and agitate
Match color to scale, this is your total chlorine (TC)
Subtract FC from TC to get CC (TC-FC=CC)
 
Hey Bob,

Are those pool store results? Did they check TA?

The CC results... do you mean TC? If so, your CC is 5ppm which is crazy outragous high and your pool needs some serious help. I would hazard a guess those results are a bit off but even so, with CC over .5ppm you will need to begin the shock process. See pool school for more information about that.

The CYA of 6 is a little confusing. Was that supposed to be 60 or 6? Because you got a 30ppm reading before, and CYA does not disappear. Did you add any CYA? Did you drain and refill?

Did you order your test kit? Once you're testing your own pool with a proper kit, the numbers will likely make much more sense to us and we can help you much better. The numbers you got today are... suspect :~}

OK, others have asked similar questions but I'm going to post this all anyway. The CYA drop is suspect. Can you tell us more about how you did the CYA test?

Also, did you dilute the sample by 75% to get the TC and FC readings? K-2005 only reads up to 5ppm and you report 10 and 15. Tell us more about how you performed that test.
 
RobbieH said:
I've never seen a CC of 15.
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Me either, except when I read some of these crazy baqua conversion stories...

1shotbob, I am thinking you are measuring TC (total Chlorine) and not CC (Combined Chlorine).

TC=FC-CC, If I am right above, that would make your CC be 5 ppm, which is believable.
 
1shotbob said:
Please bear with me. Maybe the number for CC was 5. I forgot to subtract FC from the TC. CC should be 5, since TC was 15.
Sorry.
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That makes more sense...CC level of 5 indicates you need to continue shocking until you pass the three tests:

1. CC is 0.5 or lower;
2. An overnight FC loss test shows a loss of 1.0 ppm or less;
3. And the water is clear.
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Bob,

As far as the FAS-DPD test, I'd get that on order today. You might have it by Friday since it's early enough for it to ship out today still.

You also don't need the whole FAS-DPD test kit. The only two things you need are the R-0870 DPD Powder and the R-0871 Reagent. Oh, and a $.57 dipper. A little cheaper than the whole FAS-DPD kit because you already have R-0003 Reagent, and the test block in the K-2005 kit has a 10ml mark.
 

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Since your FC is above 10, the PH number you list is suspect (might be inaccurate) but if it might be correct, you actually want to adjust PH down to about 7.2 first before you shock. Do you have muriatic acid or dry acid on hand?
 
frogabog said:
Since your FC is above 10, the PH number you list is suspect (might be inaccurate) but if it might be correct, you actually want to adjust PH down to about 7.2 first before you shock. Do you have muriatic acid or dry acid on hand?
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Hey frogabog,

I was thinking that if ph is at 7.6 it should be fine to shock. If FC is causing an inaccuracy, wouldn't only indicate higher than actual? So I think this pool is no higher than 7.6?
 
I really appreciate all the help. I have ordered the kit mentioned earlier so I'll have extra r-0003.
I'l be off to get bleach shortly.

Also, I think I'll just remove the SWG (since it really doesn't fit the other attachments anyway) and save it for next year. I'm going to go the BBB route. Stand by for lots of questions when I do. Until then, I'll be reading and lurking on that section as much as possible.
 
1shotbob said:
Also, I think I'll just remove the SWG (since it really doesn't fit the other attachments anyway) and save it for next year. I'm going to go the BBB route. Stand by for lots of questions when I do. Until then, I'll be reading and lurking on that section as much as possible.
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I agree with not messing with the swg until you are done with the shocking process. Long term, I would not give up on the swg...it works great for me, and is part of the BBB, where the "bleach" is generally replaced by the Chlorine the swg produces.
 
I absolutely loved my SWG last year. I never had any problems and the pool was always crystal clear.
This year I used a different pool (Summer Escapes) and none of the fittings of the Intex SWG fit the new pool and pump. I ended up making all sorts of adaptors from parts and pieces from Lowe's. Then when the hose broke, it sort of made me have to start all over and it just isn't worth it rich now. That was the beginning of the problem I now have.
Next year a different pool, SWG, and a sand filter to make it all right. We've enjoyed the pool so much we definitely want a better one we can leave up year round. And we're wiling to pay for it.
Right now, I just want to swim again this year. This triple digit weather is killer.
 

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