Either my Taylor test kit came with defective CYA measurement tests or CYA naturally declines or does not increase as fast as people say it might.
I used about 20lbs of Cal-Hypo to open my pool and have been using about 1lb of Dichlor / week for chlorinating and my test kit still reads 0 CYA...
And it says that the mixture is supposed to turn cloudy when I add the chemical to my test sample, however it remains perfectly clear.
Now one reason I am worried is that even with a 2-3 ppm free chlorine and a 0.2ppm of combined chlorine, I can add enough liquid chlorine (bleach) to boost things up to 6-7ppm and if I leave the cover off my pool for an afternoon, by the evening my free chlorine will be completely gone, indicating that I may really have no CYA stabilizing any of my chlorine against sunlight... Which would mean that it is very costly for me to be using plain old unstabilized chlorine as it is only remaining effective for very short periods of time, at most the ~12 hours if I add it in the evening.
I know that I do not have a contaminate lowering my FC because the water is crystal clear and my CC hasn't been above .2 ppm.
I know the last people who lived here used Cal-Hypo exclusively so I would have thought that the CYA levels would be really high to begin with, however pool company tested it as only 30 when I opened it, and it seems to have declined.
So I'm just confused overall. I've been using Dichlor (~1lb)when I want to bring the chlorine up far for when I know I'll be away for 3-4 days; and I just do a nightly bleaching with liquid chlorine (~1/8th gal?) to maintain a level of FC to keep things sparkling.
Havnt had any algea problems anyways, however I did go a little crazy with algeacide when I opened it and I've put borox in to increase the PH which I've been told acts like an algae preventative anyways.
(Been open about 6 weeks)
I used about 20lbs of Cal-Hypo to open my pool and have been using about 1lb of Dichlor / week for chlorinating and my test kit still reads 0 CYA...
And it says that the mixture is supposed to turn cloudy when I add the chemical to my test sample, however it remains perfectly clear.
Now one reason I am worried is that even with a 2-3 ppm free chlorine and a 0.2ppm of combined chlorine, I can add enough liquid chlorine (bleach) to boost things up to 6-7ppm and if I leave the cover off my pool for an afternoon, by the evening my free chlorine will be completely gone, indicating that I may really have no CYA stabilizing any of my chlorine against sunlight... Which would mean that it is very costly for me to be using plain old unstabilized chlorine as it is only remaining effective for very short periods of time, at most the ~12 hours if I add it in the evening.
I know that I do not have a contaminate lowering my FC because the water is crystal clear and my CC hasn't been above .2 ppm.
I know the last people who lived here used Cal-Hypo exclusively so I would have thought that the CYA levels would be really high to begin with, however pool company tested it as only 30 when I opened it, and it seems to have declined.
So I'm just confused overall. I've been using Dichlor (~1lb)when I want to bring the chlorine up far for when I know I'll be away for 3-4 days; and I just do a nightly bleaching with liquid chlorine (~1/8th gal?) to maintain a level of FC to keep things sparkling.
Havnt had any algea problems anyways, however I did go a little crazy with algeacide when I opened it and I've put borox in to increase the PH which I've been told acts like an algae preventative anyways.
(Been open about 6 weeks)