Need help clearing pool

Jun 22, 2011
1
I have had a pool since 2001, never really messed with testing water, and was really lucky. I simply added chlorine when water was cloudy. That was on city water.

Now I have rusty, well water for 3rd year and have nothing but trouble. I converted from DE to a sand filter last year thinking pump was problem. I use a filter on fresh water but it is still really hard. I will replace liner this season after patching many holes last year. This was probably due to not maintaining proper chemical balances in water.

Obviously, I haven't had a clue as to what I was doing to this point.

This season, I added a salt water chlorine generator and have an even bigger mess. I had started testing water but couldn't get the chlorine levels up (other readings had been fine except CH high too). Last week, I went from crystal clean water to pea soup in 3 days. I shocked the heck out of it and it's better but still have algae growing. I found this web site and wish I'd known about it before.

Tonights readings are: ph 8.2, FC 0.5, TA 270, CH 380, CYA 100 .....help!! What do I use to lower ph? Do I lower ph before bleach?

I am running pump 24/7 and will turn off SWG. it's a 24ft round 52" hign above ground.

FYI: I'm in the midwest and we've had unusual amounts of rain and extreme changes from 68-91 degree weather this June.. if it matters.
 
Welcome to the forum :wave:

Lower your pH first using muriatic acid. You can find the MA at lowes, HD, hardware store, etc.

Use the Pool Calculator to determine how much to add. Link in my sig.

Directions for "How to Shock Your Pool" are in Pool School.

Add your location alnd pool/equipment specs in your profile/signature.

Post back with any questions. Someone will be around to help :)
 
CYA at 100 will be a problem. If would be preferred to drain 50% and refill to get that under control, so that shocking can work better with far less bleach needed. But your well may be an issue for getting that much water and prefiltering it. What would trucked water cost? Would it be iron free?
 
Before you start shocking, can we get a confirmation on your CYA#?
Usually CYA tests only read up to 100 and read anything over 100 as 100 :?

Did you/will you do the CYA test using half pool water and half tap water and multiply the result X2? This will let us know if you are closer to 100, 150, etc.

With an SWG, we recommend a CYA level around 60 to 80. But as Anonapersona pointed out, it is more difficult to shock with a higher CYA.

Have you added any sequesterants?

In the interim, lower your pH ASAP.
 
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