- Apr 28, 2009
- 9
My wife and I have been keeping a small 18' for several years now using an old pool frog tri-chlor feeder without any minerals. It has worked well for us with a few exceptions: 1) when I increase filter run time I don't always remember to adjust the feeder and the chlorine spikes 2) I lose track/forget to check it for replacement and my chlorine level crashes 3) we have very little refill need and the tri-chlor drives the CYA up. I realize that except for the last item, all of these are my shortcomings. However it occured to me that all of them could be addressed by an SWG. :idea:
I'm getting ready to balance the water and found the SWG manufacturer recommendations agree right down the line with the Pool School's (http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/water_balance_saltwater_generator) except for pH. :? The manufacturer calls for 7.0 to 7.4 while Pool School calls for 7.5-7.6. I should also mention I plan to go with borates...
:?: I like the higher values as they match my fill water. What are the reasons/implications for using the higher pH range for SWG performance, Cell longevity, Maintenance of the SWG? Just as or perhaps more importantly, what are the implications for getting and keeping my pool trouble free?
I'm getting ready to balance the water and found the SWG manufacturer recommendations agree right down the line with the Pool School's (http://www.troublefreepool.com/pool-school/water_balance_saltwater_generator) except for pH. :? The manufacturer calls for 7.0 to 7.4 while Pool School calls for 7.5-7.6. I should also mention I plan to go with borates...
:?: I like the higher values as they match my fill water. What are the reasons/implications for using the higher pH range for SWG performance, Cell longevity, Maintenance of the SWG? Just as or perhaps more importantly, what are the implications for getting and keeping my pool trouble free?